Functionals

How can the sustainability of a product be measured? One of the most common methods to date has been to calculate a product’s carbon footprint. This approach focuses exclusively on 
greenhouse gas emissions and their impact on climate change and global warming. It includes CO2 emissions from a company’s own production and from purchased energy, as well as the 
carbon footprint of the raw materials used and emissions caused by logistics.

Formulating leave-on skin care requires balancing sensory performance, stability, efficacy at low use levels, and demand for traceable natural ingredients. Conventional shea butter is a well-
established emollient, but its lipid profile can require additional formulation adjustments. East 
African shea butter offers a different lipid composition that may provide an alternative starting point for specific formulation needs.

For decades, the beauty and personal care industry viewed bacteria as something to eliminate, emphasizing deep cleansing and odor removal. Today, microbiome science has fundamentally reshaped that perspective. The skin microbiome is now understood as a complex ecosystem of microorganisms that interact closely with immune and barrier functions, and healthy skin 
depends not on sterility, but on the balance and functionality of this microbial community.

For decades, “anti-aging” has been one of the most powerful concepts in beauty marketing, promising to “fight,” “reverse” or “stop” visible signs of aging. Today, however, this narrative is 
increasingly seen as outdated. Rather than framing aging as something to combat, consumers are seeking positive and inclusive approaches that respect the skin’s natural evolution.

The natural skincare market has embarked on a critical new chapter from August 2025 to 
February 2026. The natural ingredients in the market are not just seen as heritage ingredients that evoke the natural clean label connection anymore but are instead being retooled by 
suppliers and brands as quantifiable biologic performers.

A decade ago, beauty content was created to perform well on social media feeds, with sculpted contour and high-impact looks designed to trend on Instagram. But in 2026, those expectations are shifting. Consumers are no longer seeking beauty that only delivers in the moment. Instead, they are looking for solutions that support long-term skin, hair and nail health – reflecting a deeper understanding that visible beauty is shaped by what happens beneath the surface.

Biologically, all hair is the same. It is made out of keratin and consists of three layers: the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. However, different hair types exist, and curly and coily textured hair does have distinctive characteristics that require an adaptation to the hair 
care routine, which differs from straight hair. In this article, we explore the special 
characteristics of curly and coily hair, look into the ingredients that should be considered for product invention, and dive into how the hair care regimen can be tailored to meet 
the specific needs of curly and coily hair to make them bouncy and smooth.

Medicinal plants are an important ingredient for skin care. The following plants were chosen for Weleda’s Skin Food series one century ago: marigold (Calendula officinalis), camomile (Chamomilla recutita), wild pansy (Viola tricolor), and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). This article presents an anthroposophical understanding of this plant composition. Part one (published in COSSMA 4/2024) focused on marigold and carmomille, while this second part will highlight wild pansy and rosemary.

In the ever-evolving cosmetic landscape, one ingredient has steadily gained prominence for its nourishing benefits and naturalness: shea butter. However, ethical sourcing of shea remains a challenge as millions of African women and their families depend on the industry for a living. A new project by Bremen-based oil supplier Henry Lamotte Oils focuses on ethical shea sourcing – improving the lives of African women while helping cosmetic companies achieve their sustainability goals.

Structured triacylglycerols (TAGs) that are organic-certified present a broad range of new applications for the development and formulation of natural cosmetics. Nutriswiss AG, a Swiss company that specialises in the sourcing and processing of vegetable oils and fats, has recently investigated some novel tools and methods to replace palm fat with organic-certified vegetable alternatives such as shea or cocoa butter.

With the growing awareness of the importance of sun protection, the requirements for sun care products are growing as well. Sophie Rübel, Technical Marketing Lead at Croda GmbH, is on the trail of stable sun care emulsions with mineral UV filters.

Aging, or rather anti-aging, has been a star category in the beauty industry for decades. But a societal move towards self-acceptance is on the rise. Beautystreams, the global beauty industry reference, shares insights into the impact of longevity on our industry. 

Research on skin and scalp flora in relation to diseases such as atopic dermatitis, dandruff, and alopecia areata is increasing. Tribeauté has developed an extract of Blue Rose flowers as a cosmetic ingredient to prevent such diseases and support skin and scalp health.

Terms such as ‘sustainable’, ‘natural’ and ‘green washing’ are brandished about all too often 
these days; yet consumers want cosmetic products from companies who show they care about the ­environment, the community, and even align with their personal values. Just how can your cosmetic brand create truly ecologically aware cosmetic products?

The visible impact of reduced hair density, in the form of thinning or loss of hair, is a significant consumer concern in the world of hair and scalp care and can be particularly distressing 
for affected individuals. A mix of different vitamins could be the solution for that.