Biologically, all hair is the same. It is made out of keratin and consists of three layers: the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. However, different hair types exist, and curly and coily textured hair does have distinctive characteristics that require an adaptation to the hair care routine, which differs from straight hair. In this article, we explore the special characteristics of curly and coily hair, look into the ingredients that should be considered for product invention, and dive into how the hair care regimen can be tailored to meet the specific needs of curly and coily hair to make them bouncy and smooth.
There are four contributing factors that give our hair different characteristics which are shape, density, porosity, and scalp health.
Sebum is the natural oil produced from our scalp. Depending on its regulation, it is easier for it to travel down hair that is straight. This can be Caucasian hair or textured hair that has been straightened or absorbs oils very easily. Generally, when the hair is curly and coily or has a zigzag texture, the sebum can, when it travels down the shaft of the hair very easily, get lost through the twists and turns. This is why curly and coily hair may require different ingredients for the hair that provide lots of moisture from butter, oils, and humectants. These ingredients offer lots of hydration to the hair, keeping it healthy and acting as a substitute for the sebum. Therefore, these ingredients play an important role when creating tailored products for curly and coily hair.
Choosing the right ingredients for curly and coily hair
When creating products for curly and coily hair, various ingredients can be considered to meet the specific needs of these hair types. Light oils, such as jojoba oil, or heavier oils like castor oil. Oils are great because they contain fatty acids that strengthen the strands, leaving them feeling strong and healthy. Butter, like Shea, Cocoa, and Cupuacu butter, is great for keeping the hair moisturised and helps to give the curls and coils great definition. Humectants such as molasses or honey are great because they promote water retention in the hair by drawing moisture from the atmos- phere. Ingredients that create a gel or mucilage such as linseeds, flaxseeds, and Aloe vera provide slip to the hair. This helps to detangle it and keeps curls and coils looking defined. While certain ingredients are particularly suitable for curly and coily hair, customers still need to experiment to find the ones that work best for their individual hair types. There is no one-size-fits-all solution that works for everyone. This means, that for instance the hair may be super tight and coily but it may not require heavy oils as it’s fine in density.
Taking care of curly and coily hair: tips and tricks
Products with suitable ingredients are one part of making sure the curls and coils are taken care of. As important is a tailored routine. Start by detangling the hair before washing it. Apply a detangler with good slip and use your fingers to remove as many knots as possible before wetting the hair. This will help prevent further matting. This is also known as a Pre-poo (pre-shampoo).Shampoo the hair with a sulfate-free cleanser, that still lathers up well and cleanses the hair without stripping the curls of their natural moisture. Co-washes can also be a great alternative to shampoo for hair that’s porous and loses moisture quickly. To lift and remove any dead skin cells and product build-up, it’s important to get right into the scalp. A shampoo brush can help with this. They give the scalp a nice massage and promote blood circulation, which is good for hair growth and scalp health.Then rinse the hair and dry it with a t-shirt or a towel. T-shirts are great because the fibres are more gentle on curls. Once the excess water is absorbed, apply conditioner to the damp hair, pulling it through from roots to ends to ensure full saturation. Then, the hair is sectioned off with the fingers, and each section detangled with a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush, starting at the ends and working up to the roots, to work the conditioner through. Optionally, each section can be twisted. Let the conditioner sit in the hairs for around 20 minutes, then it’s absorbed nicely.Rinse out the conditioner with the twists still in, or unravel them for a more thorough rinse. Either way, at this point, the hair will be detangled.To ensure that the hair is provided with lots of moisture you can use the “LOC Method”, an effective nourishing and protecting routine for curls and coils. LOC is an abbreviation for “Liquid, Oil & Cream”. This method involves applying three products in a particular order onto the freshly washed and conditioned hair. The first step calls for a water-based product to help add moisture and open the hair shaft, so that, in step two, the oil can be more easily absorbed. This could for instance be a leave-in product like a hair conditioner spray. Step two is when you apply an oil to penetrate the hair for instance, a Hair & Scalp Oil that contains oils such as castor, coconut, or avocado oils. The product of choice can be used anywhere dryness is experienced. The final step of this method calls for a cream that not only locks in the moisture, but helps reinvigorate and define the curls, so they’re ready to be twisted, braided, styled, or can be left to dry.A silk or satin-type material headscarf can be worn to help set the hair to dry or to accessorize it while it’s drying. You can also use a pillowcase or bonnet with these types of materials to keep the hair smooth and prevent moisture loss.
Conclusion
Curly and coily hair has unique characteristics that require specialised care to maintain its health, moisture, and definition. It’s important to understand the role of the sebum, the hair texture, and the importance of the right ingredients. Additionally, a tailored routine and methods like the LOC Method are crucial for keeping curls and coils smooth, hydrated, and bouncy.
Sarah Sango
Afro Hair Specialist and Product, Brand &
Services Global Trainer, Lush Cosmetics,
www.lush.com