Actives

Next-generation hair care increasingly treats scalp and fiber as one connected system. Ceramides provide a useful example: they are endogenous lipids 
asso­ciated with barrier organization in skin and the lipid architecture of hair, while 
biotechnology and delivery systems are opening new ways to formulate them for scalp and fiber care.

Natural ingredients are gaining ground in skincare, but efficacy now matters as much as origin. Isabelle Jaouen, R&D Director at Alland & Robert, explains how proteomics is revealing gum acacia’s bioactive potential.

In the current decade, beauty is no longer simply about looking good. As part of a broader desire for health, more and more consumers are taking a holistic approach and looking for products that will also support their overall wellbeing. In a 2022 study in Europe, for example, 72% of respondents considered cosmetics and personal care products to be “important” or “very important” in improving their quality of life .

In modern cosmetics, the focus is no longer on stopping skin aging, but on skin health. Dr Meike Streker explains what measures can be taken to maintain skin quality for as long as possible.

Studies show that the idea of sustainability has arrived in the minds of consumers. 
However, it often is not easy for companies and consumers to ­implement the standards. 
Both companies and consumers focus first on waste avoidance and recycling. Blogger 
Dr Ghita Lanzendörfer-Yu presents the results to you.

With the global population expected to reach 10 billion by 2050 and the resources we rely on 
becoming scarce, the world has been brought to a crossroads. The challenges ahead are 
interconnected and unprecedented. At dsm-firmenich, we have adopted an approach that 
combines the essential, the desirable, and the sustainable.

On 6th and 7th March 2023, renowned personalities and experts from the fields of cosmetics, 
dermatology, toxicology, law and analytics from all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland met 
to exchange knowledge, ideas and opinions at this year’s Karlsruhe Cosmetics Day (KKT). The 
aim was to learn about new trends and innovations in the cosmetics market and to assess the risks associated with them. In this first part of four, Prof Dr Johannes Geier, Dr Tilman Reuther, 
and Prof Dr Rolf Daniels talk about active Ingredients and the challenges they bring.

Feeling good in your skin is an aspect that is increasingly important to customers. Body care plays an important role in this. New approaches to ingredients are necessary so that it is no longer perceived as a necessary evil but as an essential part of the daily care routine.

Silicones enjoy a dubious reputation: loved for positive properties in cosmetics on the one hand, rejected because of their less environmentally friendly side effects on the other. A plant-based variant of isododecane represents a new alternative to silicone.

Behind a successful cosmetic product, there is a lot of work by the chemists. They are constantly researching and developing new concepts to ensure the best possible use of all raw materials. Giorgio Dell’Acqua talks about the current situation.

Classics | Unlike in the modern and sometimes short-lived trend segment, medically oriented cosmetics rely on classics. Active ingredients, that have been used successfully for a long time and are considered to be stable. The following essay sheds light on the “Big Five” among the classics, their functional properties and the variants currently used in cosmetic products.

Sustainability | Active ingredients obtained from food production waste are on the rise. David Manzano and Clara Vigo show how an ingredient obtained from apple pomace closes the cycle of sustainability and at the same time improves skin health.

Redness and itching on the skin are often a sign of diseases in which the skin microbiome is no longer in balance. Scientists managed to identify a bacterium that could help restore this imbalance. Prof Dr Christine Lang reports on the positive effects it can achieve.