Innovative ingredients

In-cosmetics Korea, the only exhibition dedicated to personal care ingredients in South Korea, is taking place in Hall C at the COEX, Seoul, South Korea, from 24th to 26th July 2024, where exhibitors will showcase their formulations and innovations addressing the newest trends.

The medical plant composition

Medicinal plants are an important ingredient for skin care. The following plants were chosen for Weleda’s Skin Food series one century ago: marigold (Calendula officinalis), camomile (Chamomilla recutita), wild pansy (Viola tricolor), and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). This article presents an anthroposophical understanding of this plant composition. Part one (published in COSSMA 4/2024) focused on marigold and carmomille, while this second part will highlight wild pansy and rosemary.

Fighting sugar-induced skin aging

Sugar goes by the nickname of “sweet poison” – and that applies to our skin cells, too. After years of intense research, a team at Beiersdorf has cracked the code of glycation processes in the skin and identified an active ingredient that counters sugar-induced skin aging. The innovative formula, with its scientifically tested active ingredient complex, prevents new wrinkles from forming and visibly reduces existing wrinkles.

Formulating cosmetic ampoules

Consumers, now more than ever, want faster and more dramatic results from their skin care routines. Ampoules are one way of providing targeted active ingredients to the skin for one-off, short term or booster applications as part of, or in addition to, an established skin care regime.

Hair care, color & styling

Beautiful curls, healthy scalp, heat protection, defense against enviromental damage, clean ingredients at best with additional benefits … The demands of consumers have changed. Expectations are a lot higher – not just for daily care products but also for colouring and styling products. Here, you will find a selection of formulations and ingredient suppliers that reflect those trends.

Ingredients & sustainability

Sustainability has taken on new importance in the beauty industry in recent years as manufacturers seek to respond to growing consumer demand for sustainable and ethical products, moving away from traditional sources often linked with environmental concerns. Biotechnologyenabled novel ingredients could meet the demand for sustainable solutions in personal care.

Customised facial care

Consumers are increasingly demanding skin care that works – yet as individuals, our skincare needs can vary so dramatically. How can you give a consumer personalised skin care yet bulk produce to achieve economies of scale? The answer is customisable facial care formulas: provide a range of concentrated actives to suit specific skin needs that can be mixed in special bases to enhance delivery and ensure customer satisfaction.

Cosmetic solutions for sensitive skin

Sensitive skin poses unique challenges, requiring a delicate balance of effective ingredients and gentle formulations. Individuals with sensitive skin often struggle to find cosmetic products that provide the desired benefits, without triggering irritation or inflammation. However, recent advancements in cosmetic science have led to the development of innovative solutions specifically tailored to address the needs of sensitive skin types. In this article, we explore some of these breakthroughs and their potential to revolutionise skincare for individuals with delicate epidermises

A new era for active ingredients

Those who know them call them heroes at work. Or a perfect example of natural symbiosis. Most plants cannot live without them. And now they revolutionize the development and 
production of cosmetic active ingredients – but who are those microorganisms called Endophytes? Here’s an introduction …

DSM-FIRMENICH

The company announced collaboration with ExoLab Italia, a start-up specialising in plant-derived exosomal technologies from Italian organic fruits and vegetables. The strategic partnership between dsm-firmenich Perfumery & Beauty and ExoLab Italia marks a pivotal moment in its broader strategy for innovation and sustained growth. Through this collaboration, dsm-firmenich becomes a pioneer in bringing the innovative, … Read more

Balancing efficacy and aesthetics

From blending volatile and thermosensitive ingredients while preserving their efficacies, to communicating to clued-up consumers in a category covered by stringent regulations, combining colour cosmetics with active skincare is a challenging mix for manufacturers. This article is a close-up on the complexities of makeup and skincare hybrids.

APTAR

Aptar Beauty provides dispensers and promotional products to match the signature look of the Gaultier “Divine” range. With its sophisticated metallic appearance, Aptar Beauty’s VP4 SNI15 perfume pump perfectly enhances Eau de Parfum Gaultier Divine, available in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml formats. The colour of the pump was anodised to match the … Read more

Where beauty and health meet

In the current decade, beauty is no longer simply about looking good. As part of a broader desire for health, more and more consumers are taking a holistic approach and looking for products that will also support their overall wellbeing. In a 2022 study in Europe, for example, 72% of respondents considered cosmetics and personal care products to be “important” or “very important” in improving their quality of life .

Truly organic formulas

Simply adding organic ingredients to a formula doesn’t necessarily make them organic. These guidelines help to find out if a formulation truly can be seen as organic and what can be done to create more organic formulas from the start.

Fragrance pearls

For a long time, fine fragrance houses have stuck to the same delivery methods: Fragrance-oil mixed with ethanol. This is likely to change in the future. New innovative encapsulation technology makes it possible to develop ethanol-free perfumes that perform similar to ethanol-based perfume when it comes to intensity, complexity, and longevity, while offering an all-natural, vegan, and skin-friendly perfume experience that comes without the use of ethanol

She(a) is a hero!

In the ever-evolving cosmetic landscape, one ingredient has steadily gained prominence for its nourishing benefits and naturalness: shea butter. However, ethical sourcing of shea remains a challenge as millions of African women and their families depend on the industry for a living. A new project by Bremen-based oil supplier Henry Lamotte Oils focuses on ethical shea sourcing – improving the lives of African women while helping cosmetic companies achieve their sustainability goals.

Structured triacylglycerols – opportunities for natural cosmetics

Structured triacylglycerols (TAGs) that are organic-certified present a broad range of new applications for the development and formulation of natural cosmetics. Nutriswiss AG, a Swiss company that specialises in the sourcing and processing of vegetable oils and fats, has recently investigated some novel tools and methods to replace palm fat with organic-certified vegetable alternatives such as shea or cocoa butter.

The myths
of men care

For most men today, skincare is as natural as daily washing. While cosmetic care used to be considered unmanly, today there is fortunately a “cosmetic emancipation” of men. Never­theless, some myths still persist. Find out what’s really true about men and their skin.

Azelaic acid in sun care products

Azelaic Acid, a dicarboxylic acid, thanks to its antibacterial, antioxidant, keratolytic and comedolytic activity, is gaining more and more popularity every day in the skincare sector. Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring C9 dicarboxylic acid derived from Pitysporum ovale, it is also naturally produced by a yeast, Malassezia furfur. An active with these abilities can surely find its applicability in sunscreen and after-sun products.

All about ingredients

The Ingredients Zone is a special area dedicated to raw materials, ingredients and fragrances, created to integrate and complete the showcase of the entire cosmetics industry supply chain on-site at Cosmopack Bologna from 21st – 23rd March. Some of the brands are already giving a glimpse into the importance of ingredients and which trends will influence the choice of ingredients and the whole market in the near future!