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Photo: Dionisvera/Shutterstock.com
Photo: Dionisvera/Shutterstock.com

The consumer need for vegan and sustainable skin care products has increased. This has led to the rise of environmentally-friendly alternatives to renown ingredients, such as retinoids, which are known to prevent skin ageing. Nevertheless, the topical application of retinoids is also associated with undesirable effects related to skin inflammation, which causes many consumers to avoid its use. Therefore, there is a clear need to develop natural and vegan ingredients with the powerful benefits of retinoids, but without their side effects.

Diving into the vegan movement 

More and more people are so concerned about the environment that they are willing to take personal action towards a sustainable future. One of the main trendy movements that is shifting from niche to mainstream is veganism, which promotes the use of animal-free alternatives for the benefit of humans, animals and the environment. This ethical and sustainable mindset is no longer only associated with a diet but has become a lifestyle for many consumers, reflected in many of their daily life aspects, such as their skin care routine. Because of this reason, cosmetic formulations are starting to include more vegan and environmentally friendly alternatives to renown skin care ingredients, one of them being retinoids.

Discovering the potential of retinoids

Some of the most used and studied ingredients in the treatment of skin ageing are retinoids. Within this family is retinol, also known as vitamin A, as well as many of its natural and synthetic derivatives. Retinoids are lipophilic molecules that can easily diffuse through cell membranes, helping to reverse and prevent extrinsic and intrinsic aging of the skin mainly caused by matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) activation and oxidative stress1-2.

MMPs are a group of enzymes involved in the breakdown of extracellular matrix induced by UV and oxidative stress. They are classified into several groups, including collagenases, such as MMP-1, which breaks down interstitial collagen (types I, II, and III), and stromelysins, such as MMP-3, which degrades fibronectin, laminin and collagen (types III, IV, IX, and X). Retinoids prevent the production of these MMPs, involved in the degradation of essential extracellular matrix proteins1.

Another peculiarity of retinoids is that they share a chemical structure characterised by conjugated double bonds that allow them to absorb UV radiation and trap free radicals, being able to protect cellular targets from direct photochemical damage and from the harmful effects of oxidative stress3-4. In addition, retinoids can target key pathways involved in the cellular response to oxidative stress. In addition, they can activate an important cytoprotective transcription factor, NRF2, which, in the presence of oxidative stress, induces the transcription of diverse antioxidant genes such as heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), thioredoxin reductase (TXN) and oxidative stress-induced growth inhibitor 1 (OSGIN-1). These enzymes can rapidly and coordinately neutralise and remove harmful species to protect the cell4-5.

Despite their rejuvenating potential, the topical application of retinoids can lead to an adverse effect known as “retinoid reaction”, which is mainly characterised by an itching and burning sensation, erythema, scaling and peeling of the skin. Retinoids activate pro-inflammatory pathways that induce key components related to the inflammatory response, such as COX-2 (PTGS2), known to mediate pain, redness and swelling1.

Photographs of the crow’s feet area before (left) and after 28 days of treatment (right)
Photographs of the crow’s feet area before (left) and after 28 days of treatment (right)

Stevia traditionally used to prevent wrinkles

Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana), also known as green sugar, is native to the tropical region of Paraguay in South America. The Guarani Indians in South America have known about the advantages of stevia for centuries. They were aware that its leaves had a strong sweetening power which they used to enhance the taste of bitter mate, a traditional South American infused drink. In addition, stevia was also traditionally used as a medicinal potion and as a skin healing, smoothing and anti-wrinkle remedy.

Besides being native to South America, stevia plant can also be found in other places in the world, such as the Bordeaux region in France, known for its natural richness. Saucats, a region near Bordeaux between the Garonne River and the Atlantic Ocean, is known worldwide for the very good wines produced in this region. Its favourable geological and meteorological conditions; with well-drained and nutrient-rich soils, provides the vines with a good proportion of irrigation, helping them achieve their optimal growth. Even the air quality in this part of the world is among the best, with low levels of pollution and bright, unblemished skies. 

One of the plants that grows in these excellent conditions, surrounded by iconic vineyards, fields and forests of the Bordeaux region, is the stevia plant, which attracts the attention of local farmers, who are not only devoted to the wine tradition. 

By using organic stevia leaves from this region, the Stevisse advanced botanical ingredient was created. The ingredient was obtained by using a subcritical water extraction technology. 

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