Challenges in ­evaluating sunscreens

The sun protection objectivation subject represents a complex issue between in silico, in vitro, in vivo and hybrid methods at least as important as the challenge of the formulation itself. Anne Charpentier explains different methods with their advantages and disadvantages.

Expert in oral health

In synergy, several microorganisms ensure a healthy oral flora. If this is out of balance, inflammation and periodontal diseases can develop, which sometimes lead to systemic diseases. Stefan Fellner reports on the positive effects that the use of an extract from medicinal moor can have.

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Formulation 2022: Face & Colour

The coronavirus pandemic has changed consumer demands for face and colour cosmetics over the past two years. Nourishing and even rejuvenating effects in addition to colour are very popular. We present a selection of formulations and ingredients suppliers that provide an insight into some of the latest innovations on the market.

Headspace protection

Fermentation | Preservatives help extend shelf life. As consumers increasingly demand natural ingredients, new solutions are needed. Anna Crovetto presents a new way of containing the proliferation of bacteria and fungi in headspace.

Sweat-clogging naturally

Personal hygiene | Body odour is unpleasant, and most people try to prevent it with the help of antiperspirants. Functionalised calcium carbonate has the potential to become a natural alternative to the commonly used aluminium salts. Julia Ivanov reports on promising study results.

More moisture with aloe-moss

Moisture source | Mosses have great potential as cosmetic ingredients. Especially with aloe- moss, it has been shown that it cannot only increase the moisture content in the skin but also has a positive influence on its distribution.

The who’s who of microorganisms

Invaders | To ensure consumer safety and the shelf life of cosmetics, product purity is essential. But despite great care, bacteria, yeast, and mould can get into the products. Dr Bernhard Fellenberg explains which are the most common in cosmetics and what a contamination can cause.

Trends in product developments

Market | There has been an increasing demand for products that promise to keep the skin microbiome healthy and regenerate. Accordingly, a lot of energy is invested in the development of new products. Sreedevi Kakkad gives an overview of the current developments on the market.

Focused skin care with beads

Solid forms | The trend towards solid forms for cosmetic and personal care products is gaining momentum. Combining these formulations with skin microbiome-friendly formulations poses a particular challenge for the development of new products. Dr Nora Schiemann explains the role that beads can play in this.

Back to balance

Ratio of bacteria | The microbiota of the skin is a unique ecosystem for everyone, whose role in metabolic, immunological, and neurological functions is now well established. Petra Schlegel knows what effects an imbalance in bacteria can have on the health of the skin, and how the balance can be restored.

Protective Probiotics

The positive effects of probiotics on skin health are well known. A new manufacturing process makes it possible to combine the benefits of a probiotic for skin care with the use of traditional cosmetic ingredients.

The „Big 5“ active ingredients

Classics | Unlike in the modern and sometimes short-lived trend segment, medically oriented cosmetics rely on classics. Active ingredients, that have been used successfully for a long time and are considered to be stable. The following essay sheds light on the “Big Five” among the classics, their functional properties and the variants currently used in cosmetic products.

Treasures of the apple

Sustainability | Active ingredients obtained from food production waste are on the rise. David Manzano and Clara Vigo show how an ingredient obtained from apple pomace closes the cycle of sustainability and at the same time improves skin health.

One blend – two functions

The task of emulsifiers is to combine non-miscible liquids such as water and oil in cosmetic products to form an emulsion. A new blend of natural emulsifiers also shows antimicrobial properties. Nargiza Cakir, Dr Malte Sietzen and Dr Fernando Ibarra have studied the advantages that result in the manufacture of cosmetic products.

New ways for preservatives

Preservatives are necessary to extend the shelf life of cosmetics. But they do not have a good reputation with customers. Barbara Olioso knows how they are currently developing in order to increase both acceptance and tolerance.

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Customized fast to market: Compalen Slip Strip compounds for gentle and caring shaving

Compalen Slip Strip are ready-to-use care compounds from GRAFE for the production of slip strips that make wet shaving particularly gentle and pleasant. Carrier materials are polystyrene (PS) or thermoplastic elastomers (TPE) for processing by injection moulding or extrusion.  When compounding Compalen Slip Strip, GRAFE uses its extensive know-how in the additivation of thermoplastics to … Read more

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Beauty in all its facets – Ceramides from Evonik

Ceramides for all tones and textures! From celebrities like Rihanna with her Fenty Beauty line to smaller labels, inclusive beauty is here to stay and gives new as well as established brands the chance to be part of the revolution and to lastingly expand their circle of customers.  Evonik has been conducting fundamental research into … Read more