From lab to shelf

photo: Oksana Mizina/Shutterstock.com
photo: Oksana Mizina/Shutterstock.com

The beauty industry is changing. Ingredients – their sourcing and their effects – become a 
huge focus point. Merve Samur from INCI Lab talks about how consumer trends influence brands and product developments.

COSSMA: How did the market change in the past few years? What general direction can be made out?
Merve Samur: The cosmetic market has seen significant shifts over the past few years. Consumers are now more educated and conscious about what they put on their skin, seeking transparency and efficacy above all. Clean beauty, sustainability, and science-backed ingredients have become key drivers, alongside a strong preference for products tailored to specific concerns, like ageing and hyperpigmentation, especially in regions like New Zealand and Australia. This trend is steering the industry towards a more personalized and health-centric approach, creating room for brands that focus on both results and responsible ingredient sourcing.
With the growing possibilities in science, what difficulties does that mean for communicating with consumers?
With rapid advancements in skincare science, conveying the benefits of these innovations in a way that resonates with consumers can be a challenge. Often, the science behind a product’s efficacy is complex, involving technical ingredients or processes. Striking a balance between clear, relatable messaging and scientific accuracy is crucial. Consumers are increasingly savvy and expect brands to be transparent and truthful. Therefore, crafting messages that simplify complex science without losing authenticity requires collaboration between R&D, marketing, and sometimes even educational campaigns.
How can R&D and marketing work together?
R&D and marketing can achieve more impactful outcomes when they work closely, translating scientific breakthroughs into marketable product stories that align with consumer needs. For example, R&D can inform marketing about a new ingredient’s unique benefits, while marketing can provide R&D insights into consumer pain points and trends. This collaborative approach ensures that products not only perform but also fulfil a genuine demand in the market, allowing brands to stay competitive and relevant. By aligning objectives early in the development phase, the journey from lab to shelf becomes a cohesive narrative that builds consumer trust and engagement.
How do trends and innovations influence the marketing for cosmetic products?
Trends and innovations play a pivotal role in cosmetic marketing by dictating what consumers expect from new products. For instance, the rise of “skinimalism” has driven demand for multifunctional products, while environmental concerns have fuelled a shift towards sustainable packaging and upcycled ingredients. Innovations like bioactive compounds and region-specific formulations allow brands to address unique market needs, setting them apart. Effective marketing harnesses these trends to tell a compelling story, connecting consumers with products that feel not only innovative but also socially and environmentally responsible.
What developments can possibly be witnessed in the future?
In the future, we can anticipate even more focus on personalized, science-driven skincare solutions, with AI and data analytics helping brands understand individual skin needs. Ingredient transparency will likely become a standard, not a selling point, and sustainability will continue to drive packaging and sourcing innovations. Furthermore, clinical partnerships are likely to grow, enhancing product efficacy claims with proven data, particularly for markets with unique skin concerns, such as hyperpigmentation in Australasia. Ultimately, the market is moving towards a consumer-centric model where effectiveness, sustainability, and personalization intersect, paving the way for skincare that’s both ethical and impactful.

Foto: Merve Samur
Foto: Merve Samur

Merve Samur 
Director, INCI Lab, 
Auckland, New Zealand, www.theincilab.com

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