The demands have changed in recent months due to the pandemic and the new work situation associated with it. Non-staining makeup and, at the same time, caring products that should be produced as sustainably as possible, are the trend. Silke Langer gives an insight into the status.
Colour cosmetics fatigue, stayat- home measures during the Covid-19 pandemic and retail store closures are shifting retail buying behaviour. Each year brings new product development with little differentiating the latest launches, and consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious about purchasing less to reduce plastic waste and support sustainability initiatives. As a result, by the end of 2020 the global beauty industry experienced a 10% decline in value, creating a need to redefine beauty and personal care trends with indoor use and self-care front of mind1.
Consumer Consciousness
Conscious consumerism is influencing this “new now” as consumers change to a lifestyle that emphasises clean, natural beauty and essential personal care. Increasingly, beauty and personal care consumers are looking for tangible, measurable benefits from their purchases that support environmental and sustainable causes. This trend will accelerate in the post-Covid-19 world, and consumers will mainly look at the ethical credentials or clean label principles of their colour cosmetic purchases before making a choice. Conscious consumerism is also driven by the global health crisis’s economic and emotional impact, which continues to take its toll.
What’s Trending
More consumers want colour cosmetics and skincare products with natural or organic ingredients without sacrificing long-lasting performance. With the rise of virtual at-home work and hygienic concerns, beauty formulators are adapting products to meet lighting and long-lasting needs. Laptop camera definitions require light coverage, achieved with concealer and tinted moisturisers or classical foundations. This supports the acceleration of convenient, multifunctional hybrid products and the resurgence of makeup with sustainable solutions. Consumers require convenient and speedy rituals in the “new now” that create looks focused on healthy skin and sheer coverage. “Long-lasting” claims became a more significant trend in 2020. According to Mintel, the long-lasting effect is essential for lip and eye makeup. Long-lasting claims rose in importance as hygiene concerns impacted on-the-go use of makeup. The mandatory use of facemasks dramatically affects the transfer and smudging of colour cosmetics, resulting in the desire for long-lasting and no-transfer products.
Formulating for the “new now”
How to formulate the best natural base solutions can be a challenge for every formulator for several reasons: makeup products need to be easily applied and have a long-lasting performance with a nice pigment dispersion, while keeping skin in a healthy condition. The right choice of a film former with superior water and sebum repellence and rub off resistance is needed. Non-occlusive and keeping skin hydrated and smooth is a key element.
Each formulator knows how difficult it is to choose the right ingredients for the best sensorial performance to have the best spread ability and low tackiness combined with a smooth feeling on the skin. Consumers additionally look for a great gloss and shine for a makeup product to leave them confident and selfie ready. If all the key elements are achieved, consumers are staying with the makeup offering and loyal to the brand and the willingness of repurchase
is high. Bio based and natural derived ingredients are on a new scope of consumers’ minds. New ingredients with higher levels of bio-based content are getting into the market and allow more options to develop make up formulations in the future. Today’s latest ingredients fulfil consumer demand for more sustainable bio-based or biodegradable solutions.
Film former for long lasting make up
With a new product launch2, a long lasting and comfortable to wear film former is introduced which can achieve superior water and sebum repellence, excellent film integrity and rub-off resistance, which translate into long-lasting benefits. The
new film former contains a carrier system of 100% derived from renewable feedstock’s, improving the naturality content score with a potential of up to 60% following ISO 16128 for substances.
Sensorial enhancer
An ultra-smooth feel can be designs with Fluid a blend of an ultra-high viscosity dimethiconol in C13-15 alkane3 bioderived, inherently primary biodegradable carrier. Another sensorial enhancer4, a silicone elastomer, smoothens the skin and improves skin imperfections. The advantage of low levels in D4, D5 and D6 and being formulated in a bio-based carrier, allows cosmetic formulations to develop a higher naturality content (ISO 16128 eligible content up to 70%). Beside smoothness powdered and matte finish are needed in makeup formulations (graphs 1 and 2), with polysaccharide extracted from corn and modified5 high oil absorption capabilities can be designed. With a bio-based emollient6 a satin light
feeling in a makeup formulation can be developed beside the effect of enhancing the stability and an improved colour pigment hold
Texturisers
Which format is needed, a liquid fluid or a cream? Which is the packaging format, a tube, pump, or a jar? Using natural based texturisers origin of polysaccharides7 with many talents to build the viscosity or stability of a formulations and adding aesthetic benefits like smoothness, shine, or moisturising. Another new texturiser and emulsion stabiliser for cosmetics based on citrus peel fibres from the pectin production side stream can be used for bio cosmetic and natural base end formulations. The combination of biodegradable and derived from 100% natural origin (in accordance with ISO 16128) citrus peel fibres with sclerotium gum, resulted in the creation of a texturiser8, designed specifically for skincare for to achieve a quick breaking texture, long lasting freshness and cooling effect, none tacky and satin skin feel.
References:
1 Colour Cosmetics: Inc Impact of Covid-19, UK, July 2020
2 Dowsil Fa Peps Silicone Acrylate by Dow
3 Dowsil PMX-1508
4 Dowsil El-Tips
5 like C*EmTex
6 like BioEstolide
7 like the texturizing architect Actigum VSX 20
8 FiberDesign Sensation
Silke Langer,
Senior Marketing Manager BPC,
Univar Solutions, Essen, Germany,
www.univarsolutions.com