Interview with:
Astrid Wulfinghoff,
Business Development Manager Cosmetics EMEA/LATAM,
Covestro Leverkusen, Germany
www.covestro.com
COSSMA: What makes your new film former Baycusan eco E 1000 different from other film formers?
Astrid Wulfinghoff, Business Development Manager Cosmetics EMEA/LATAM, Covestro: So far formulators of hairstyling products had to choose between high performing or natural-based ingredients. When they opt for a formulation with natural ingredients, they are faced with poor performance in terms of humidity resistance, flaking or washability. On the other hand, when they choose synthetic polymers they cannot fulfil the consumer demand for the use of natural resources.
With the help of Baycusan eco E 1000, formulators can now comply with both demands at the same time with just one polymer and provide both performance as well as a natural source.
The new film former is bio-based. Could you please explain what that means?
The new film former fulfils the criteria for naturally derived ingredients for cosmetics in accordance with the ISO Norm 16128. More than 50% of this ingredient stem from natural sources.
It is not easy to find the appropriate monomers from renewable resources. With the right ratio and combination we were able to maintain the same performance typical for synthetic polymers such as a pleasant hair feel, no flaking and good humidity resistance.
What are the disadvantages usually associated with using green raw materials in hairstyling and hair care?
There are still no natural hair fixative agents on the market. The natural thickening agents commonly used are xanthan gum or shellac which also act as film forming agents. Purely natural styling polymers often have the disadvantage of having a poor styling performance. Xanthan gum leads to strong flaking. Shellac can be difficult to wash off. Most of the required styling properties such as strong hold, humidity resistance or heat protection usually cannot be achieved with natural polymers.
For what types of product can the new film former be used and what are its benefits?
Just like our classic Baycusan polymers, Baycusan eco E 1000 can be used for all types of styling formulations such as gels, waxes, lotions, creams, or aerosols. Apart from its sustainability benefits, the film former’s main technical benefits include a long-lasting and flexible hold, humidity and heat protection. Its sensory benefits are not compromised as Baycusan eco E 1000 facilitates the development of hair care formulations with low flaking and low tackiness.
In what way is the performance different from conventional film formers?
The styling properties of the bio-based film former are comparable with conventional film formers and include a strong and long-lasting hold as well as very good straightening and anti-frizz properties.
Have the curl retention properties been tested in comparison to conventional film formers?
In general, polyurethanes protect well from air humidity. The high humidity curl retention was tested at 30°C and 90% relative air humidity. Baycusan eco E 1000 was compared with other technologies and showed a better humidity resistance in comparison to PVP or acrylates.
How is the performance in terms of heat protection?
Polyurethanes provide excellent heat protection when straightening irons are used with a temperature of 230°C. Acrylates are not thermally stable at this temperature. In addition, the new film former helps to straighten the hair due to the flexible film it leaves on the hair.
Additional information
https://press.covestro.com/news.nsf/id/biobased-film-former-for-perfect-hairstyling