Ever heard of the term ‘holobiont’ in relation to skincare? Set to become one of the buzzwords in the beauty and skincare industry in 2025, it refers to the interaction between a host organism and its microbial system, typically found in the gut or on the skin.
As our body’s largest organ, the skin regulates inflammation and can function as a barrier against pathogens. For optimum functioning, a healthy microbiota rests on the composition of a well-balanced population of symbiotic and pathogenic microorganisms that interact with each other and with human cells. This unique ecosystem is composed of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, viruses, phages, and mites.1 As the science behind the importance of the skin microbiome evolves, it has led to a shift in the conventional view of the skin’s three layers to now include a fourth, the holobiont.2 From a skincare point of view, the relationship between the skin microbiome and holobiont is starting to reveal its secrets – offering fantastic beauty and skincare formulation opportunities. This is particularly true when it comes to the development of natural and sustainable hydrating ingredients and moisturising products that can keep this delicate ecosystem in equilibrium.
"This unique ecosystem is composed of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, viruses, phages, and mites"
A daily routine with different cosmetic products (a skin softener, a lotion, an essence, and a cream) can make a severe difference in the overall health and appearance of the facial skin.
A question of balance
We all know that the surface of the skin is a hive of different microorganism activity – each as unique as a fingerprint. When it comes to the health of this system, exposome and internal stress can result in an imbalance in the collaboration between the holobiont and the skin microbiome, resulting in significant damage that could affect the skin’s appearance and protective function.3 This discrepancy in the balance of the microbiome and holobiont is also associated with inflammatory skin issues, barrier function alteration, dryness, dandruff, skin ageing, and a major contributor to eczema, acne, rosacea, atopic skin, and psoriasis.4 But the good news is that the development of the right topical product formulation could go far in offsetting damage.
Hydration for a healthy skin
In the beauty, cosmetic and personal care industries, hydrating products are developed for everyday use to maintain a smooth and healthy skin. In a paper entitled ‘Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial cheeks with different hydration levels’,5 the influence of hydration cosmetics on the facial skin microbiome was assessed on 30 volunteers with dry-to-hydrated skin types. The basic hydration set included four cosmetic products, which were applied sequentially after facial washing, twice a day, for four weeks: a skin softener, a lotion, an essence, and a cream. The study found that the use of these products resulted in a significant increase in bacterial diversity, regardless of facial-skin hydration levels. As for the bacterial composition, the communities found in both skin types were different before and after moisturising by all participants.6 There is also a growing body of evidence that suggests that probiotics, when used in a topical format, may help to treat, and prevent skin conditions such as acne, dry skin, and UV-induced skin damage. Some of the benefits include boosting the skin’s production of ceramides, lipids, and fats that could assist in controlling acne and other skin disorders. The skin and microbiome are so interrelated that if you help the skin to feel more nourished, the functioning of the microbiome will also be enhanced.7
Targeted ingredients for skin health
One of the most important products in a skincare regime is hydrating solutions including moisturisers, serums, and lotions. Products that contain emollients such as linolenic and lauric acid can help in smoothing the surface of the skin, filling the spaces between skin cells where there has been a loss of moisture. Conversely, humectants in moisturisers help attract moisture to the skin while lanolin, silicone, and mineral oil helps seal moisture into the skin. They also form a protective barrier to reduce damage from environmental factors and in this way protect the microbiome.8 Not all moisturisers are created equally though, and it is important to match your product formulations with different consumer skin types to offer the right level of barrier protection required by your customer.
Conclusion
With the delicate skin ecosystem under scrutiny, the industry is assessing the use of certain skincare products and cosmetics – paving the way for ingredient and product development. And while the jury is still out on microbiome and skin care products that protect it, this is an area ripe for science-backed product innovation.
References:
1,2,3 Understanding the microbiome: What is the holobiont? https://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/Understanding_the_microbiome_What_is_the_holobiont/200870
4 Skin microbiota and holobiont | Personal Care https://www.crodapersonalcare.com/en-gb/blog/skin-microbiota-and-holobiont
5,6 Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial cheeks with different hydration levels – PubMed (nih.gov) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29193830/
7 What Do Probiotics Have to Do with Your Skin? https://www.healthline.com/health/probiotics-skin-care
8 The Gut-Skin Connection: How Your Food Affects Your Skin – Skin Trust Club https://www.skintrustclub.com/blog/the-gut-skin-connectionhow-your-food-affects-your-skin/
Ine Matthé
Product Manager, Oleon Health and Beauty, Ranst, Belgium, www.oleonhealthandbeauty.com