In recent years, feminine care for women of all ages has attracted consumer interest. While feminine care, including intimate health, is often still a taboo subject in many parts of the world, an increasing number of cosmetic companies started to tear down the walls on this specific topic. They intend to answer the growing demand for personalised cosmetic care products for women to meet their biological needs, since they tend to vary remarkably throughout a woman’s life. This novel trend in self-care reinforces women’s sense of personal well-being and security, so that they can feel comfortable, and well-resourced to go through their busy flexi-lifestyles.
With proper ingredients, Fem Care cosmetic products and treatments provide skin comfort during the upheavals of the hormonal changes and fluctuations, which women may face during puberty, menstruation, fertility, pregnancy, and menopause. These personalised cosmetic care products support the body-positive movement and provide comfort during hormonal changes and their impacts on the skin. They help every woman to be and feel beautiful by relying on who they simply are.
While experiencing hormonal fluctuations, the skin is more sensitive and more prone to dryness, tightness, and redness. It can be easily attacked by external or environmental factors, such as e.g. pollution, UV rays, and exposure to pathogens or irritative substances. Also, intrinsic factors might contribute to sensitive skin including stress, lack of sleep, age, and other dermatological disorders. To relieve sensory reactions, women may strive for skin softness and comfort, which constitutes a main facet of Fem Care. Thus, essential ingredients for cocooning and protective care are ideally suited such as e.g. a 100% naturally derived ester, obtained from milk thistle seed oil, which brings a luxurious sensation of softness during application. As a natural alternative to silicones, it is exceptionally fluid and spreads extremely easily, giving cosmetic formulations a pleasant and dry feeling of comfort. However, acting as a hybrid ingredient, it brings on the one hand sensory qualities and naturalness to formulations, but also protective biological properties for face and body care. Besides improving the quality and sensory of emulsions, the ingredient possesses proven effects in preserving the structure of the stratum corneum from external aggressions, and in fighting against dehydration and delipidation of sensitised skin.
Benefits of rose extract
Fem Care should not only be limited to skin comfort but should also be about letting women glow with happiness and confidence. An organic Rosa gallica flower extract, obtained with an innovative and eco-friendly Eco-sound extraction technology, perfectly meets this demand for feminine care. The extraction technology offers quality extraction under gentle extraction conditions with high ecological performance including reduced energy consumption and is based on the principle of sonoporation, a weakening of the cell membranes by the formation of pores. The rose being the ultimate feminine flower and symbol of love, is widely used in cosmetics, fragrances, and herbal medicine. Its popularity is largely driven by its resistance to diseases and harsh weather conditions. In addition to its timeless romantic symbolism, it is also appreciated for its astringent, moisturising, toning, and healing properties and is dedicated to women of all ages.
The 100% natural derived rose extract is the perfect active ingredient for trendy beauty rituals providing essential hydration to the skin. This universal botanical extract is quantified in flavonoids and is ideally suited for skin flooding routines, due to its proven moisturising and protecting properties. It visually improves skin quality and preserves skin youthfulness. Furthermore, it reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes and protects lipid compounds from external aggressions; thus, being ideally suited for young skin. In addition, the extract demonstrated to reduce the expression of inflammatory mediators and the phenomenon of glycation, which makes it an ideal candidate for mature skin protecting it from premature ageing. An in vivo study with 31 volunteers aged between 40 and 70 years old revealed that twice daily application of a cream containing 3% of this rose extract for 28 days significantly enhanced skin hydration by 5% in comparison to the placebo cream (Figure 1). A questionnaire demonstrated that the volunteers also perceived the beneficial effects of the product on the skin. Most of the volunteers confirmed that their skin felt more comfortable, more hydrated and appeared less tight, less tired, and more radiant after application of a cream containing the extract.
A further benefit of this rose extract, in line with Croda’s sustainability strategy and commitment to be “Climate, Land and People Positive by 2030”, is its local French sourcing from producers engaged in responsible organic agricultural practices. Most of the supply is derived from French family farms located no more than 200km from the manufacturing site. These direct collaborations allow transparent exchanges and minimised transport of materials while ensuring safe working conditions.
Using food by-products
Also, by-products of the food industry meet the Fem Care trend: an exceptional pomegranate pericarp extract serves as a natural hyperactive concentrate for sensitive skin to find daily comfort and well-being. Pomegranate is recognised as a superfruit due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, pomegranate is the greatest natural source of punicalagin, mainly found in the pericarp of the fruit. This molecule gives pomegranate its antioxidant capacity. In addition, the pomegranate tree has been recognised as a fruit tree with remarkable longevity. In many countries, the pomegranate tree is known as a symbol of life and fertility. Sensitive skin is associated with a permanent state of inflammation, leading to a lower tolerance threshold of the skin and an altered skin barrier. Pathogens such as pollutants, irritants and stress attack the skin and stimulate inflammatory reactions, leading to an overproduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines including interleukin-8 (IL8). Consequently, neutrophils are no longer able to neutralise these pro-inflammatory cytokines generating an oxidative explosion. Free radicals such as reactive oxygen species (ROS), produced during this reaction, ultimately lead to tissue damage. In an ex vivo test on explants reconstructed from human epidermis, it was demonstrated that 24-hour incubation with the pomegranate pericarp extract leads to a significant reduction of IL8 release measured by ELISA (Figure 2a). Furthermore, it could be demonstrated in an in vitro test on human neutrophil cells, that the pomegranate pericarp extract contributes to a significantly reduced ROS production (Figure 2b). By restoring the balance between the production of IL8 and free radicals, the pomegranate pericarp extract responds perfectly to the problems of chronic inflammation and is an ideal active ingredient for sensitive skin.
Figure 1:
In vivo evaluation of the moisturising effect of the Rosa gallica flower extract on mature and dry skin measured by MoistureMap®. A cream containing the rose extract significantly hydrates the skin by 5% compared with the placebo cream after 28 days of application.
Figure 2A and 2B:
Inflammation regulation and protection against free radicals. a) Measurement of the release of IL8 by ELISA within explants reconstructed from human epidermis reproducing an atopic dermatitis induced by a pro-inflammatory mix. The pomegranate pericarp extract significantly inhibits the production of IL8 by 37% at 40µg/ml.
Figure 3:
Quantification of HSP70 expression in HaCaT human epidermal keratinocytes incubated at 45°C for 45 minutes (*p≤0.01). The Osmanthus fragrans flower extract plays an essential role in cell survival, maintaining cell viability despite heat stress. Furthermore, the extract increases HSP70 production in a dose-dependent manner.
Counteracting enviromental influences
Finally, Osmanthus fragrans flower extract perfectly meets the Fem Care trend and, moreover, is dedicated to geo-skincare. Geo-skincare is about protecting the skin against the harmful effects of environmental aggressions. Rising levels of pollutants and temperatures due to extreme weather events, such as floods, fires etc., disrupt the skin microbiome and increase the risk of skin disease and heatstroke. The health priority thus relies on protection against the damaging effects of heat from sun exposure and is combating oxidative stress. The Osmanthus fragrans flower extract is the floral ingredient to fulfil these demands. From emblematic Osmanthus flower, celebrated and wellknown in Asia, very trendy and popular in the perfumery sector, this ingredient is manufactured with a green and eco-designed process, the Eco-sound technology. The extract is an active ingredient rich in verbascoside and carbohydrates with proven efficacy. It helps to protect the skin against heat from sun exposure by regulating the production of heat shock protein 70 (HSP70) for better cell survival during exposure to heat (Figure 3) and reducing the production of free radicals. It also soothes sunburned skin by reducing redness and the production of the pro-inflammatory mediator prostaglandin E2 (PGE2). Thus, the Osmanthus fragrans flower is the shielding plant for everyday life that protects against the harmful effects of climate change.
Conclusion
To conclude, women’s skin is exposed to various hormonal fluctuations during a woman’s life causing numerous skin problems. Besides these intrinsic factors, external aggressions, such as environmental factors impact the skin’s ability to maintain its homeostasis. The cosmetic industry offers a multitude of natural and trendy opportunities to counteract women’s sensitive skin of all ages and to improve skin conditions due to hormonal changes to ultimately provide skin comfort and well-being.
Dr Sarah Christina Pütsch
Technical Marketing Manager, Croda GmbH, Nettetal, Germany, www.crodabeauty.com