Skin longevity is becoming a major concern, going far beyond simply reducing the signs of aging. To preserve the skin’s essential functions over time, a global and synergistic approach is now required, one that supports cellular vitality.
The acceleration of global aging is intensifying the search for solutions to preserve health and vitality. Cellular longevity is therefore becoming a key issue. Expectations are shifting, marking a change in how we perceive skin aging. We are moving away from an approach focused on visible signs and targeted mechanisms, toward a more holistic vision. This vision focuses on the root causes of cellular imbalances in order to restore biological harmony and support the skin’s essential functions.
Understanding skin aging through cellular mechanisms
This change in perspective is part of a broader scientific trend, initiated by the publication of “Hallmarks of Aging” in 2013, then updated in 2023 by López-Otín et al1. This seminal work highlighted the fundamental biological mechanisms of aging, responsible for the progressive loss of functionality and physiological integrity. Originally numbering nine, these markers now include twelve, underscoring the growing complexity of our understanding of aging:
Primary hallmarks, considered to be the initial triggers of damage, include genomic instability, telomere attrition, proteome alterations, and autophagy dysfunction. These disruptions compromise cellular integrity from the earliest stages. Antagonistic hallmarks are adaptive responses developed to cope with primary damage. Beneficial in the short term, their prolonged activation can become deleterious, such as cellular senescence or mitochondrial dysfunction, which, in response to persistent stress, contribute to the acceleration of tissue aging when they escape regulation. Integrative hallmarks emerge when damage and responses can no longer be balanced out by cellular homeostasis mechanisms. The cell then enters a phase of irreversible functional decline, marked by tissue disorganization, impaired intercellular communication, and loss of skin integrity.
This in-depth understanding of cellular aging invites us to explore the biological leverages able to preserve the skin’s vitality in the face of the aggressions of time.
Mitochondria: the engine of skin vitality and resilience
As a symbol of cellular longevity, mitochondria play a central part in skin vitality. In addition to producing the energy necessary for cellular life, they regulate key functions such as homeostasis, detoxification, and stress adaptation. But mitochondrial dysfunction is directly implicated in several hallmarks of aging, including genomic instability, energy dysregulation, and senescence.
Mitochondria constitute a dynamic network whose morphology and organization reflect their functional state: an interconnected network is associated with optimal energy production and greater resistance to stress.2 These findings on mitochondria have guided the development of solutions with the ability to address multiple mechanisms of aging simultaneously.
A global strategy to target the markers of aging
Based on findings about the key role of mitochondria in skin vitality, a pioneering strategy has been developed to support overall cellular longevity. Rather than targeting a specific mechanism, this approach is based on holistic biological screening designed to identify solutions that can act on all hallmarks of aging: primary, antagonistic, and integrative.
It is within this context that a bio-inspired ingredient has been developed, produced from raspberry leaves rich in ellagitannins and obtained using green biotechnology. It was selected for its ability to reactivate cellular resilience pathways, particularly those related to mitochondrial health: modulation of antioxidant defenses, stimulation of DNA repair, maintenance of proteostasis, and support of autophagy. These functions are essential for preserving biological balance and slowing the effects of skin aging.
To confirm this approach, oxidative stress induced by tBHP (tert-butyl hydroperoxide), known to alter mitochondrial membranes and induce senescence, was used. Proteomic analysis allows global cellular responses to be measured, revealing the direct effects of the ingredient and secondary adaptations within interconnected networks. This approach confirms that preserving mitochondrial functionality is a strategic leverage in acting on the markers of aging.
This bio-sourced active ingredient acts precisely in this area by supporting the integrity of the mitochondrial network after UV-induced oxidative stress. By preserving this organization (Figure 1), it helps maintain bioenergetic efficiency and boost cellular vitality, contributing to skin resilience. Moreover, this green biotech ingredient shows protective activity against senescence, with a decrease in the number of senescent cells assessed by □-galactosidase labeling, a key indicator of aging. It also preserves the clonogenicity of epidermal stem cells, which is essential to their regenerative capacity and tissue homeostasis. This strategy is based on specific plant-based active ingredients whose biological properties are particularly well suited to this integrated approa
Raspberry ellagitannins: bio-inspiration serving longevity
Ellagitannins are polyphenols distinguished by their ability to strengthen cellular integrity3, thanks to their unique molecular structure specific to each plant species. They play a key role in plant resilience by strengthening cell walls through binding to polysaccharides, inhibiting degradation enzymes, disrupting microbial membranes, and neutralizing free radicals. They therefore limit oxidative damage and enhance repair. These functions can be transposed to the skin; ellagitannins from raspberry leaves act as true modulators of cell longevity, capable of supporting the skin’s defense, repair, and regeneration mechanisms.
To ensure their effectiveness, these components are extracted from certified organic leaves, harvested responsibly in France. An innovative co-solvent extraction process, combining water and glycol under subcritical conditions, optimizes the concentration of ellagitannins while respecting their natural structure. This advanced technology directly contributes to the performance of the active ingredient, as demonstrated by the results obtained in clinical conditions.
Clinical testing: visible and measurable results
Thanks to its unique longevity-focused design, the ingredient made from raspberry leaves showed multidimensional effectiveness in a 56-day double-blind clinical study. Significant improvements compared to placebo were observed in eye contour wrinkles, skin texture, pore visibility, pigmentation spots, and complexion radiance. Image analysis revealed a reduction in wrinkle surface area (Figure 2), visibly smoother skin, and a more even and luminous complexion. A targeted analysis of pigmentation spots (Figure 3), including measurement of the ITA (individual typological angle) and melanin content, confirmed visible lightening and a more even complexion on the face, hands, and neckline. These results confirm the value of a holistic approach, based on the science of aging and plant bio-inspiration.
Conclusion
Improving skin longevity involves protecting the biological mechanisms involved in cellular aging, while supporting the skin’s natural regenerative abilities. This innovative active ingredient, obtained from raspberry leaves using an eco-designed extraction method inspired by the raspberry bush’s defenses, illustrates this approach by targeting several visible and biological markers of aging: wrinkles, texture, radiance, and pigmentation spots. Thanks to its richness in bioactive compounds, it helps reveal smoother, more luminous and more even skin, reflecting a comprehensive action that preserves skin vitality.
These results highlight the value of a holistic strategy based on understanding the mechanisms of aging and plant bio-inspiration.
References:
1 Lopez-Otin et al. Cell 2023 Jan 19;186(2):243-278
2 Hoitzing et al. J. Bioessays 2015;37:687-700
3 Siemińska-Kuczer et al. J.Food Chem. 2022;373
Oriane Le Roux
Global Product Manager, Solabia Group,
La Défense, France,
www.solabia.com