The cosmetics industry has long been driven by the pursuit of aesthetic perfection. Luxurious textures, captivating fragrances, and visually appealing packaging are paramount. However, consumers are increasingly demanding that beauty brands prioritize eco-friendliness alongside aesthetics. Palm oil-derived ingredients offer a compelling solution, enabling brands to achieve both aesthetic excellence and genuine environmental responsibility, despite some public misunderstanding of the rigorous standards sustainable palm oil adheres too.
A deeper exploration of this reveals that palm oil- derived ingredients provide both abundant beauty benefits and the opportunity for truly sustainable sourcing.
Palm oil’s beauty benefits
Palm oil is not just an agricultural commodity but also a versatile, abundant and cost-effective raw material for many industries around the world. In beauty and skin products, palm oil provides a consistent supply of stearic acid and palmitic acid, which act as an effective emulsifier and emollient; deeply moisturize the skin while consistently maintaining the product’s texture and spreadability. Palm oil is also a rich source of Vitamin E particularly tocotrienols, which is 40 to 60 times more effective than its sibling, tocopherols, in antioxidant protection. Vitamin E tocotrienols is highly effective in protecting the skin from free radical damage and reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Beyond moisturization and anti-aging, palm oil-derived ingredients such as isopropyl palmitate also contribute to the overall texture and stability of cosmetic products. Their emollient properties create a smooth, luxurious feel, enhancing the sensory experience for the consumer. The other benefits of palm oil-derived ingredients are that they are natural, renewable and acceptable to all religions (i.e. plant-based).
Sustainable palm oil is an eco-friendly alternative
The key to reconciling aesthetics and eco-friendliness lies in sustainable sourcing. The cosmetics industry can leverage the benefits of palm oil without contributing to environmental degradation by choosing sustainable palm oil from responsible and certified producers. Sustainable palm oil production adheres to strict criteria including the requirements for deforestation-free cultivation, traceability and transparency and ethical labor practices.
In this regard, the Malaysian palm oil industry has made significant progress, since its establishment in 1917, in balancing environmental responsibility with economic growth. With a rich history of more than 100 years, the sector has transformed, with sustainability, transparency, and traceability becoming the backbone of its supply chains.
One notable achievement is the mandatory compliance of the Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil (MSPO) certification scheme. Introduced in 2015, MSPO is Malaysia’s legally mandated and independently audited standard for sustainable palm oil production and was made mandatory from 2020 to all stakeholders along the supply chain including palm oil dealers.
Today, approximately 87% of Malaysia’s total oil palm planted area is certified under MSPO including 1.09 million hectares belonging to smallholders, which account for 26% of the total planted area. Moreover, many Malaysian companies are also certified under other sustainability schemes such as Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISCC); making Malaysian Palm Oil one of the most certified vegetable oils globally.
With the MSPO in place, Malaysia is committed to making all its palm oil free of deforestation in the near future. Indeed, this is making a tangible difference. According to the World Resources Institute’s Global Forest Watch, Malaysia achieved a 57% reduction in primary forest loss as of 2022, demonstrating the success of government and industry initiatives to curb deforestation. This further strengthens Malaysia’s position to be considered as a low-risk country under the European Union Deforestation Regulation’s country benchmarking system.
By embracing sustainable palm oil such as those produced under MSPO, brands can actively contribute to the conservation of rainforests and the protection of wildlife. Additionally, sustainable practices provide support to alleviate poverty among the local communities and promote economic development in palm oil-producing regions. This holistic approach aligns with the growing consumer demand for ethical and environmentally responsible products as well as the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.
Consumer perceptions are a hurdle
While the scientific evidence supporting palm oil’s benefits is compelling, the industry must also address consumer perception and their concerns about the environment. Today, consumers are increasingly savvy and often scrutinize ingredient lists, sometimes avoiding products that contain ingredients derived from palm oil. However, this practice is often counterproductive, leading to the use of less sustainable and more expensive alternatives.
Therefore, educating consumers is paramount. Brands need to communicate transparently about their sourcing practices, highlighting their commitment to using the ingredients sourced only from certified sustainable palm oil. This includes clear labelling and engaging content to explain the benefits of sustainable palm oil and the rigorous standards it adheres to.
"Looking ahead, the future of palm oil in cosmetics hinges on collaboration and innovation."
Continued research into sustainable palm oil-based derivatives, coupled with advancements in traceability technology, will further enhance transparency and accountability. The industry is also fostering closer partnerships with certification bodies, NGOs, and local communities to ensure that sustainability remains at the forefront.
Two examples of this are the industry’s current collaboration with MSPO to enhance awareness on sustainable and responsible practices among the smallholders and the partnership with WildAsia, a local NGO, to educate plantation managers on the biodiversity and conservation issues related to the industry.
Balancing the aesthetics with the ethics
Leading beauty brands are increasingly recognising the importance of sustainable sourcing. And consumers are no longer willing to compromise their values when it comes to beauty. They seek products that not only deliver exceptional results but also reflect their commitment to a greener planet. This behavioral shift is driving the cosmetics industry to adopt more sustainable practices, including the use of sustainable ingredients in their products.
The challenge for cosmetic product development scientists is to find a balance between the desire for aesthetically pleasing products and the commitment to ethical sour-
cing. In this regard, sustainable palm oil, like those produced under the Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil (MSPO) certification scheme from Malaysia, provides a perfect solution.
MSPO-certified sustainable palm oil allows brands to create luxurious formulations – products with the desired texture, feel, and performance – while staying true to their sustainability commitments. It’s about demonstrating that aesthetics and ethics are not mutually exclusive; they can coexist harmoniously.
By embracing certified sustainable sources, the cosmetics industry can harness the remarkable beauty benefits of this vital raw material while ensuring environmental responsibility. This approach allows for the creation of aesthetically pleasing, high-performing products that meet the growing consumer demand for both luxury and sustainability, paving the way for a more ethical and beautiful future for the industry.
Belvinder Kaur Sron
CEO, Malaysian Palm Oil Council, Malaysia, www.mpoc.org