The way to new products: COSSMA

Managing the product development process can be quite a challenge. Especially when different parties with different expertises are involved. This article can be a guide for cos - metic chemists and brand managers to make the development process a little smoother.

You’re a cosmetic brand manager who has con - ducted market research to determine the ultimate skin or hair care product. Now, you just need to find a Cosmetic Chemist who can put the product together for you. With the information you can give them about what the product needs to look like, feel like and perform like, and even what it needs to contain, it should be easy, right?

OR on the flip side …
You’re an experienced and innovative cosmetic chemist, who keeps up with their suppliers and knows all the latest launches. Should be easy to develop just about any per - sonal care formula from a properly prepared product devel - opment brief, right? Unfortunately, the path to cosmetic formulation develop - ment is never straight, and rarely smooth. This article will look at ways to enhance product development from the view of both brand manager and cosmetic chemist to get the best possible outcome: an amazing product formula you can take to production and then to market.

1 Make sure the Product Develop - ment Brief is used correctly

Even the best prepared product development brief in the hands of a highly experienced cosmetic chemist can get misinterpreted at best, or micro-managed by the brand manager at worst. Rather than use a product development brief as a hard and fast document (from either the brand manager or cosmetic chemist point of view), it should be used as a communication tool between both parties.
If you are the cosmetic chemist: you’ll need to understand what the brand manager is aiming to achieve, beyond what they’ve described on paper. Ask for comparison product samples and make sure you understand their target market, otherwise it will be very hard to capture what they are looking for in any samples you make.
If you are the brand manager: remember you have gone to the cosmetic chemist for their knowledge of ingredients and formulation; don’t micro-manage them with a discus - sion of what cosmetic ingredients do what.

2 A little flexibility is needed – by both involved parties

Truly innovative and amazing cosmetic formulas are created when the strengths are brought out in both the market research and formulation development. This sometimes means bending the rules of the original brief without losing sight of the original objective.
If you are the cosmetic chemist: remember it is a crowded marketplace out there, and it may mean stretching your comfort zone. The brand manager has come to you needing something different to that which already exists, so you may need to think outside the square in order to deliver a unique and different cosmetic formula.
If you are the brand manager: a cosmetic chemist is not a magician. A great cosmetic chemist may come close, but they can’t change the rules of science. There may be something in your brief that is impossible to achieve within the laws of chemistry, so it may be better to think: what is closest acceptable alternative?

3 Regulations may be a roadblock – but is there a side gate?

Whether it be cosmetic ingredient regulations, claims regulations, or customs regulations, there is no time where crossing a regulatory line is okay. However, is there another way to approach the project that instead makes it possible? For example, there are certain types of claims or ingredients that are simply not allowed for cosmetic formulas. They are a definite no. But is there an alternative ingredient that may perform a similar function that is permitted in a cosmetic formula, with claims which are permitted?
If you are the cosmetic chemist: you may need to provide the restricting piece of legislation to the brand manager so they can understand the limitations of what they have asked for. Remember, the brand manager is usually the more creative type, and it opens up the opportunity for collaborative discussions that may help you both reach a solution. Without being given the rules, however, you can’t expect a brand manager to understand why you keep saying no.
If you are the brand manager: rules are rules and cosmetic chemists are, at heart, scientists that get a certain kind of satisfaction out of following rules. Don’t try to break the rules; instead ask for a link that defines the rules and think of how you can brainstorm alternative solutions (and don’t try to find a grey area, regulators are pretty black and white).

4 Good R&D is an investment and might take some time

If trend setting innovative and unique products were easy to create, we’d see ten times or more brand leading launches every year. The truth is, if you want something different, unique and high performing, then it should take time and be an investment to create. You don’t want your cosmetic chemist to just grab a formula they’ve made for someone else and alter it a little, do you? Didn’t think so.
If you are the cosmetic chemist: make sure you are clear about fees and charges from the start, including if changes are made to the brief – both those which become necessary and those which may be better described as whims. Use the brief as a communication tool at the start but be clear on what is included in the development steps, and what would be considered additional extras (such as stability testing).
If you are the brand manager: a good cosmetic chemist will approach every development brief with a clean formulation pad – this is how you’ll get a unique formula and perhaps exactly what you’re looking for. This means you need to expect appropriate investment in their skill and typically 3-6 months for the formulation stage alone including multiple revisions based on feedback. (Note: this does not include extra time needed for any recommended product testing).

5 Recommendations should be listened (and usually adhered) to

Developing a cosmetic formula is usually just that: creating a theoretical formula and product samples for review and adjustment until the desired product has been created. It does not include: physical testing (beyond basics, such as pH, specific gravity and viscosity); efficacy or performance testing; or microbiological or stability testing. It also does not include large lab batch or pilot batch steps. These items are additional extras, which are an extra investment and take additional time.
If you are the cosmetic chemist: make sure you have a product development agreement and information provided to your brand manager at the start which outlines this information to ensure they are properly informed of what is included in the development time and fees, and what is not. They are not the scientist, so explain additional steps in simple terms and why they are not included in the development phase – a brochure and written agreement usually works wonders!
If you are the brand manager: these additional items are usually completed at additional time and cost after the formula has been created. These items aren’t ‘suggested’ to try to get extra money out of you; they are strongly recommended (read: usually essential) to ensure your for - mula will comply with additional regulatory needs of safety and stability. But shouldn’t that be part of the original development, I hear you ask? No – you can’t complete these steps until you have a product and formula devel - oped. Hence, why they are additional steps after the devel - opment process has been completed.

It helps to understand each other’s role …

Respect and understanding for the strengths of both parties in any business transaction is always a key to success. When it comes to product development – a process that takes months to complete and always warrants further discussion – the importance of good communication can - not be overemphasised. In this article I’ve highlighted some of the key issues that can occur with any product develop - ment, along with some solutions and the viewpoints of each party. Use these tips when approaching your next product devel - opment and you will see your creations achieve greater results