Only one

COSSMA: Eyeshadow palettes are complex structures. Where did the idea of making it from a mono material come from?

Jean Paul Corbeil: It was the evolution of a package that already existed in the 90s. Back then, I had worked on a project where we made plastic godets that could be directly pressed with powder. It was a refill-concept, where we tried to avoid the expense of gluing a metal pan into the refillable plastic godet, thereby reducing costs that were paid to the “Green Point” system. Having this experience and knowledge, it was a logical step to develop a hinge with this material and make the mirror extractable.

What requirements did you have to the material and what were the difficulties in choosing it?

The idea was to make a mono-material pallet without using a petrol- or sugar-cane-based material, which although plant-based in the latter case, did not satisfy our expectations of eventually leaving behind truly toxic-free and biodegrading elements.

What material made the race?

We chose a cellulose-based biodegradable material, because with only 8 to 14% of the world’s plastic actually being recycled after consumer use (PCR), we wanted to introduce a material that will not end up as micro-plastic, which eventually wanders into our food chain, or contaminating our ocean’s floor or surface for up to 400 years, should it not be incinerated or recycled. Unfortunately, there is too much plastic that somehow ends up in our environment, no matter how good our intentions really are.

No metal, no magnets, and no glue – how does a developer approach this challenge?

By using the same material for all key components, devising a clever click-in pan system, and ensuring that all individual parts can be assembled with a mere press-fit, not using glue for anything except the mirror, which is mounted into the re-usable mirror frame.

How long did it take to develop from the idea to market readiness? 

We have been playing with the idea for quite some time, so when our customer was convinced and ready to go forward, it was probably a six-months development time before we saw the first parts fall from the tool. As usual with any development, once parts were physically available, there was some tweaking needed for the various press-fit functions to get the right overall fit and feel.

There was also some time needed to find the right surface treatment of the lid-plate, which was also to function as long-lasting mirror frame. So, all in all, it took somewhere around ten to twelve months to have it market ready.

Have there already been role models from other industries?

None that we consciously applied to our development, although there might be many.

Can you please describe the click system?

It is a system designed and developed by our chief designer. Although not being used as a refill-system for now, it could very well serve this purpose in the future.

For now, it provides a unique anchor-system for the biodegradable godets, while giving freedom to re-arrange or position the godets within the base of the pallet.

Will this system only be found with one brand or can other cosmetics companies also benefit from this development?

At the moment we have developed it for our one customer, but it can be adapted for use by others should the need arise.

What is the product’s ecological footprint?

The main benefit of the material is based on renewable resources/raw materials that have Reach, Food Grade, child-safe and industrially compostable certifications, so it fulfils most of the requirements for cosmetic packaging.

Simply said, it is comprised of the same ingredients that go into the production of paper, and when fully degraded, leaves behind mere minerals like calcium, magnesium and CO2 and water.

What was your greatest experience with this new development and what other products can you take with you?

It was great to work with such a forward-looking customer like Revolution Beauty, who are continuously striving to be different and better. The fact that they lis-tened to our ideas and allowed us to realise something on such a relevant level, eventually bringing this product to life, was probably the most rewarding part of this development.