When aging becomes positive

COSSMA: The view of the topic of “anti-ageing” has changed. What exactly is different now?

Maud Merlini: In the past ten years, the perspective of the cosmetics industry on the topic of “anti-ageing” has changed quite a bit. Trends agencies advise to accompany ageing, brands are now talking about “slow ageing” and “ageing well”, in the press. Young women are also making a little more room for their elders (fifty years and above). This is the pro-age trend, which we interpret as a move  away from the beauty ideal that was defined by eternal youth.

If the ideal of beauty for women over 50 is no longer perfect, youthful skin, what do they expect from their care products now?

We notice that the perception of beauty has shifted over the years and tends toward a more emancipated vision. For instance, in 2017, a study revealed that among more than 10,000 women questioned, 70% think that beauty is something thatyou define yourself¹. One of the first expectations is a change in the communication of brands on anti-ageing products. Ageing is inevitable; women are fighting less and less against time flying. They claim the right to be beautiful and feel well, whatever their age. This acceptance can be seen, for example, in the rehabilitation of certain signs of aging such as “happy wrinkles” or silver hair. Consumers also expect fewer overpromises and more realistic benefits from brands. When we look closely at women aged 50 years and over, they form a significant and increasing demographic group for the beauty market, with a real purchasing power. What do they want? They expect products designed specifically to answer to their changing skin conditions, for example related to menopause. Also, when we take a look at younger consumers we observe that they change their attitude towards ageing and start using anti-ageing products earlier. Indeed, a study conducted in the UK reports that among 5,000 women, 62.4% think now that “anti-age” consists of “preventing” the effects of skin ageing², rather than trying to correct them.

Which active ingredients are currently setting trends and what are they doing?

Facing these new consumers expectations, brands must both adapt their marketing speech and change their strategy of active choice to enter in a “pro age” strategy. Some brands work on a less negative approach towards ageing by promoting fewer corrective benefits, such as improving complexion glow and concealing skin tone imperfections. To value women over 50 years old – formerly side-lined in the cosmetics sector – brands can design products specifically for mature skin. With age, skin loses its integrity. The metabolism slows down and it doesn’t allow the skin barrier to be maintained anymore. When this occurs, the skin loses both moisture and firmness; it becomes dehydrated and wrinkles appear. Centella asiatica is a trendy ingredient to care for mature skin as it can regenerate the natural skin barrier. For those who look to protect the youth capital, antioxidant ingredients are commonly used. However many brands are also looking for new approaches in preventive aging. Our extract from the red seaweed Asparagopsis armata protects the skin from endogenous stress using a unique approach; it controls contagious ageing (in vitro). Ageing leads to an excess of senescent cells characterised by functional and morphological modifications. These cells also produce a “Senescence Messaging Secretome” (SMS), affecting neighbouring young cells and accelerating the signs of ageing. The extract of Asparagopsis armata regulates the impact of SMS in order to reduce the contagious aging effect on young cells. It protects young cells from senescence induced by SMS.

“Healthy ageing” instead of “anti-ageing” - what does this mean for customers’ care routine and way of life?

In terms of way of life, “healthy ageing” having a more holistic approach to beauty. For example, consumers are aware of a connection between diet and appearance and pairing up traditional cosmetics with edible products can be a great opportunity. To support brands in this direction, we can offer a patented complex of plant-based ceramides that maintains a healthy skin with moisturizing and antioxidant action, for both topical and edible applications. Of course, the basic trio routine – cleanser, serum, cream – is here to stay, but beauty supplements can enrich customer’s skin care routine.

References

⁽¹⁾ Philips Global Beauty survey – 2017, with more than 10,000 women.
⁽²⁾ ‘Skin Thinking’ study conducted on 4,963 British women aged from 18 to over 60 years (2018)