Striving for perfection: COSSMA

Interview with Stephan Schatz, Geka

COSSMA: What made you become involved with cosmetics?

Stephan Schatz, Head of Business Unit Beauty and Chairman of the Board of Management, Geka: Right before I joined Geka, I was involved with medical products requirements, which are very similar to the standards of colour cosmetic products. When I worked in the medical business, introducing innovations took years, but today in the beauty market, at Geka, it only takes months. As a man, direct contact with colour cosmetics is very uncommon, but as my work is more than just business, I got very much involved with the whole world of colour cosmetics during our photo shooting of the management team. This completely new experience led to amazing results, a total change of appearance as you can see on this month’s front cover picture of COSSMA. It not only reflects my emotional involvement with the job but also shows that my team and I are willing to learn new things every day and to dare to take new steps for a successful future of our company.

Could you please characterise the global beauty market?

The beauty market is currently undergoing a worldwide transformation. The current market rules are confronted with a thorough change: Indie brands are winning significant market shares, growing to billion dollar brands, while well-established, well-known brands are losing market shares. Products launched by famous personalities such as actors and musicians are best sellers and becoming role models and trendsetters for product design and make-up performance.

Social media have a high impact on the colour cosmetic markets; the importance of bloggers and influencers is increasing and new target groups such as men are entering the cosmetics market. Their growing importance is not limited to the skin care market, they are also a new target group for the market of colour cosmetics.

While many consumers are searching for authentic products to express their individuality, others are going back to simplicity. To meet the needs of these contrasting consumer groups, specific products need to be developed.

How would you characterise the cosmetic market in the field of brushes and applicators?

There is an increasing focus on cosmetic applicators due to social media with influencers and bloggers posting close-up photos of product applicators. Applicators are not only key for applying the product properly but they should also be an eye-catcher. In terms of eyes, beauty brands are still asking for an extreme volume effect that really builds up lashes. Up-coming trends and consumer demands include formulations for lash care and growth as well as fibre additives.

But there is also a big need for simplifying the daily beauty routine with products that are fast, easy and efficient. In terms of lips, there is an up-coming request for fancy lip applicators with crazy but efficient shapes. Designing and developing applicators and brushes to match specific formulas and viscosities is becoming more and more important. For face make-up such as liquid foundation or concealer, large and long applicators are the future. Customised and branded cosmetic applicators for lip and face treatment are highly requested and will create a huge potential for differentiation and individualisation of brands.

What are the most important challenges for this market currently?

Social macro trends generate major impacts and set the demands and challenges of the market – but create new opportunities as well.

The biggest trends include sustainability and green products, transparency, personalisation and individualisation as well as digitalisation. End consumers care about their global footprint and strongly request bio-based, degradable or recycled materials. They want natural products and want to know about the ingredients. They care about the effect of the ingredients on the skin, on lashes and the general impact on their body. Transparency will be a key feature in future. In order to have products that solve individual needs, the personalised approach of customers is very important. Authentic products that help to express individuality are products with the name of the consumer, with their own pattern or in their preferred colour.

The colour-cosmetics market is ruled by the we-want-it-now generation. Lead time is key for beauty brands and distribution channels. There is an immense move from retail stores to online-shopping. Digitalisation stops nowhere and redefines the rules and requires innovative packaging solutions as well as special features (e.g. augmented reality) as a standard.

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