Slowing down senescence

To address the topics of both well-being and senescence, a research project was started to investigate the factors influencing skin ageing in greater depth and find out how senescence affects skin cells. Senescence plays a central role in ageing. Vital cells have an optimal metabolism. Senescent cells are cells that no longer proliferate. In such cells, metabolism has slowed down. Apparently, these cells also favour the senescence of neighbouring cells and, above a certain amount, accelerate the appearance of signs of skin ageing.

Extremophilic bacteria

What is stressful for others, is what gets them going – extremophilic microorganisms like it hot, sour, or salty. The metabolism of these bacteria is stable. No matter what, these bacteria always gain something positive from the situation and their environment.

An active ingredient with the INCI name Propanediol, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract¹ was extracted from the extremophile bacteria Sphingomonas hydrophobicum, rich in sphingolipids, an important component of the cell membrane. The scientists have been able to show in various in vitro and in vivo tests that the active ingredient can inhibit senescence. Sphingolipids are known to form ceramide precursors that help produce more ceramides in the upper layers of the skin. The active slows the skin ageing process by promoting optimal cell function and stimulating cell vitality for denser, smoother, and more radiant skin.

Slowing down senescence

The active ingredient rejuvenates the matrisome of aged dermis and improves dermis integrity. By acting on the key biological targets of senescence and of dermal matrisome, it provides a sublimating effect on physical impacts of ageing on skin and an uplifting effect on mood in mature skin. Elasticity of the dermal compartment through the expression of the fibrillin and elastin proteins, as well as the global enrichment of the dermis in neo-synthesised matrix were analysed².

The results:

• Increases the neo-collagen synthesis and thus improves dermis organisation.
• Intensifies fibrillin expression improving skin biomechanical properties.
• Increases significantly versican expression in dermis.

Improved skin density

The scientists identified sphingolipids as one of the most potent inhibitors of negative effects of senescent cells. First, it reduces senescent cells: ß galactosidase, is an enzyme that enables identification of cells in senescence. The application of Retinoic acid as well as the treatment with the active ingredient (concentration 0.1%) lead to a decrease of ß-galactosidase expression of 3/4 compared to the untreated control. Retinoic acid application and a treatment

with the active ingredient at concentration of 0.1% lead to a decrease of ß galactosidase expression as compared to the untreated control. These decreases are 76% and 78% respectively, versus the untreated condition. Furthermore, it blocks the proinflammatory phenotype. The active ingredient decreases the secretory phenotype of senescent cells, limiting the release of pro-inflammatory interleukins.

It induces a decrease of 32% of IL8 release when compared with the untreated condition as well as also a 33% decrease in IL-6.

Sublimating effect on the physical impacts af ageing (in vivo)

When the skin cells lose vitality, the entire substructure is affected, and the individuality of the face is weakened. The research was dedicated to counteracting these signs and to slow ing down skin senescence³. Tightening effect on saggy skin: Contours are visibly redefined, saggy skin is tightened. The jaw/skin suppleness was improved by +12%.

Anti-wrinkle and smoothing effect on crows’ feet: The eye contour is a particularly sensitive area of the face. Intense and continuous stimulation disrupts cellular functions. A complete action on the skin’s microrelief could be shown. In the study the skin became significantly more elastic and youthful again. A remarkable result, visible in a significant reduction of crow’s feet.

Glow Booster: Blemishes such as dark spots, redness and pores cause an uneven complexion. In this study, the skin regains its natural ability to reflect light, revealing a boosted radiance. The treatment improved coarse skin texture (cheek/isotropy) by+14%.

Happy ageing and well-being

Cosmetics also expands its focus to psychological and physical well-being. Thus, also this factor has been considered and tested with two recognized psychological tests. Mood and self-esteem were improved significantly

References

¹ Hebelys, INCI name: Propanediol, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
² 3D full-thickness reconstructed skin in comparison to Placebo and Retonoid acid
³ The tests were conducted as hemi-face application of the active ingredient 1% vs placebo, twice a day with 24 subjects from 60 to 70 years old over a time of 56 days.