Quality meets sustainability

Apricot kernel oil is a popular premium oil especially for baby care, facial care, and body care products for sensitive, dry, and fragile skin¹. The light-yellow oil is extracted from apricot kernels by mechanical cold pressing procedures². Knowhow is required here: only optimal raw material qualities, gentle mechanical pressing procedures, and a well temperature-controlled oil pressing promise a convincing product result. If the production is successful, apricot kernel oil delights with its slightly fragrant scent. 

Due to its high amount of monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid (54 to 76%)³, apricot kernel oil is valued as emollient⁴. These advantages may be attributed to given evidence that shows mono-unsaturated fatty acids make the lipid barrier of the skin more receptive for lipophilic active substances⁵. Moreover, the ratchet structure of the oleic acid in apricot kernel oil allows it to be absorbed well to leave a light sheen without a greasy layer on the skin⁶.

More attention to sustainability

However, a steadily growing number of critical consumers do not only pay attention to the functionality of a cosmetic product and the products’ quality itself. Instead, more and more consumers attach great importance to socially and ecologically sustainable products⁷. The attractive target group “Lohas” (Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability) in the USA and the upcoming generation of “Millennials” in Europe appear to be particularly noteworthy here.

Both target groups have in common that their own consumption is mostly critically questioned and adapted. “Organic” alone no longer seems to be enough for many: They are calling for fairly traded and ecologically sustainable products with a favourable ecological and social footprint. With respect to this, the “Demeter”-certificate is an attractive seal to meet consumers’ demand: One third of the interviewees trust the Demeter-seal as identified in a representative poll with German consumers from 2017/20188. This trust is reflected in growing sales figures of biodynamical produced products. Also, the number of producers of natural cosmetics who work with Demeter-certified raw materials. Organic and Demeter are therefore fully in line with the consumer trends addressed. With Demeter-certified apricot kernel oil this growing consumer interest can be addressed.

Economic and ecological benefits 

To ensure the quality of the apricot kernels, long-standing partnerships with experts and pioneers in the field of processing and exporting ecologically and socially sustainable fruits such as sweet apricots are essential⁹. By purchasing apricot kernels from Demeter-certified smallholders, the partners safeguard another sustainable source of income for biodynamically working farmers in addition to the marketing of dried apricots. This is a gain for all parties. 

On the one hand, farmers, firstly, can achieve an average net profit that is higher with marketing organic-certified products than with the marketing of conventional products¹⁰. Secondly, the partners often are highly engaged in social projects to strengthen a sustainable development in small rural villages and to promote organic agriculture. That means supporting local small-holder’s knowhow and training, supporting farmers in certification procedures, and taking over quality management tasks such as soil analysis, or assumes economic risks e. g. by refinancing projects. 

On the other hand, the partners can supply the European and international food and cosmetics market with premium apricot kernel oil, Demeter-certified to address customers’ demand.

Aditionally, organic agriculture provides ecological advantages such as enhanced soil fertility, soil stability, and biodiversity¹¹. The Demeter certified use their own compost, green manures, animal manure, and pruning wastes to keep and improve soil fertility and dynamism. The background behind this approach is to build up humus, which supports the water storage capacity of the soil. Since water availability is becoming a limiting factor for crop yields, especially in times of anthropogenic climate change, such an approach is proving to be ground-breaking – especially if the farms lack financial means to irrigate their fields. Against the backdrop of climate change and changing environmental circumstances, risk minimisation, and security of supply are even more important – both factors that could become key factors for entrepreneurial success in the coming years. 

Apricot kernel oil from biodynamic cultivation seems holistically promising, as it not only addresses consumer interest, but also guarantees raw material security in purchasing. This assessment is based not least on the goal of biodynamic agriculture: to strengthen resilience.

References:

1 Käser, H. Naturkosmetische Rohstoffe. Wirkung, Verarbeitung, kosmetischer Einsatz. Linz: Freya 2011, p. 31; https://www.drhauschka.de/heilpflanzenlexikon/aprikose/ (accessed 16 Apr 2021).

2 Krist, S. et al. Lexikon der pflanzlichen Fette und Öle. Wien: Springer 2008, p. 52.

3 Käser, H. Naturkosmetische Rohstoffe, p. 31.

4 Ellsässer, S. Körperpflegekunde und Kosmetik. Ein Lehrbuch für die PTA-Ausbildung und die Beratung in der Apothekenpraxis. Heidelberg: Springer Medizin 2008, p. 129, 312.

5 https://olionatura.de/basiswissen/oele-kombinieren/pflanzenfettsaeuren-im-detail/ (accessed 22 Apr 2021).

6 Bährle-Rapp, M. Springer Lexikon Kosmetik und Körperpflege. Heidelberg: Springer Medizin 2007, p. 458;

7 Sahota, A. Global Market Organic Imports. Willer, H. et al. (Hg.). The World of Organic Agriculture Statistics and Emerging Trends 2020. Hg. von Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL), IFOAM–Organic International. Rheinbreitbach: Medienhaus Plump 2020, p. 140.

8 For example the partnership between naturamus, Germany and Isik Tarim, Turkey.

9 https://biohandel.de/markt-branche/umsatz-mit-demeter-waechst-im-bio-fachhandel-um-31-5-prozent (accessed 23 Apr 2021); https://www.finanzen.net/nachricht/geld-karriere-lifestyle/biomarkt-waechst-demeter-auf-dem-vormarsch-umsatz-biodynamischer-produkte-zieht-an-9364547 (accessed 16 Apr 2021).

10 Ucar, K. et al. The comparative economic analysis of organic & conventional dried apricot production: A case study of Turkey. Fresenius Environmental Bulletin 2017; 26 (7), p. 4555. 

11 IMOswiss AG (ed.). IMO Organic Standard – IMO Organic Equivalence Standard for Operators in Non-EU Countries – Version 1.9 2015.