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photo: Peter Turner Photography/Shutterstock.com
photo: Peter Turner Photography/Shutterstock.com

The trend for products with dermocosmetic properties is gaining momentum in the cosmetics industry. But what exactly is behind it? Why are these products so popular among consumers? Lucilene Veira Nunes shares her insights about the available solutions for cosmetic manufacturers in this expanding category.

Interview with Lucilene Veira Nunes,

Head of Business Management for Active Ingredients EMEA,
BASF,
Monheim, Germany,
www.carecreations.basf.com 

COSSMA: How do you define “dermocosmetics”?

Lucilene Veira Nunes: Right now, there is no standard definition of this term. However, we can say that dermocosmetic products have some key characteristics. They are typically inspired by medical considerations, for example, while still defined as a cosmetic. This means they feature claims related to supporting comfort and long-term skin health, and these claims are backed by scientific evidence.

It is not unusual for products in this category to be used or recommended by dermatologists as a supportive solution to address common skin challenges. These challenges can include skin that is oily, prone to acne or atopic dermatitis, as well as sensitive or aged skin. Dermocosmetics open exciting potential for companies in the cosmetics industry, with a rapidly growing market that achieved 16.5bn Euro of market size in 2020, according to Euromonitor1.

Why is this trend so important?

Today’s consumers have high awareness of how cosmetics can positively influence their skin. Thanks to the huge amounts of information that brands share online, they now understand what their skin needs and how it reacts – and they want to manage their routine in the best possible way. In that sense, the rise of dermocosmetics responds to the need to solve skin challenges.

In Brazil for example, 35% of adults have experienced acne in the past twelve months, and among the 16- to 24-year-olds, the figure is as high as 50%2. Among Chinese consumers, 14% report having problems with dermatitis in the past six months3.

For the cosmetics market, this is creating big opportunities. A report from Market Data Forecast projects that the global market for solutions that target atopic dermatitis will hit 21bn Euro in 20264. That’s why major established brands are keen to respond to this trend, and emerging new brands are also embracing dermocosmetics with innovative products and beauty routines like devices or customisable solutions.

Which formulations are popular and which skin challenges do they address?

A lot of dermocosmetic products on the market use well-known molecules like hyaluronic acid, retinoids, or niacinamide. However, we are also seeing brands adding new and trendy solutions to their existing formulations – such as natural ingredients, microbiome-friendly technologies, or well-known peptides.

The main objective of these products is to offer efficient and sensorially appealing options to complement prescription solutions for skin challenges. The five most common conditions are oily skin with imperfections prone to acne, sensitive skin, dehydrated skin, aged skin, and dry or atopic-prone skin.

Dermocosmetic products offer proven efficacy and safety. But they also give consumers comfort and sensory improvements that address the physical impact of these conditions, as well as the mental impact such as loss of confidence. That’s exactly why we have launched a new ingredient5.

What is this ingredient and how does it work?

It is a new active ingredient for cosmetics – and it is proven to help comfort atopic-prone skin. Atopic dermatitis is the most common multifactorial skin condition. It has an increasing frequency of up to 3% in older adults6 and affects up to 25% of children7. Our active ingredient is 100% from natural origin, as it is obtained from organic-certified leaves of chestnut trees (Castanea sativa) and is thus suitable for cosmetics marketed as sustainable and natural. For us, the product is the latest addition to our growing portfolio of sustainable active ingredients for personal care products that help fight common skin challenges.

Atopic dermatitis occurs when the skin barrier is damaged, causing itchiness and redness. In vivo trials have proven that the active ingredient helps to improve the appearance of skin prone to atopy. 22 adults with dry and atopic-prone skin were recruited for a double-blind and randomised study. Having applied a base cream emulsion or an emulsion containing 2% of the active ingredient for 56 days, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was 27% lower, compared to 18% when using the base cream. The new product also delivered a 43% decrease in the atopic-prone skin signs grading and reduced the pH level of the skin by 0.26.

These results were not only measurable, but also visible and perceivable: in a self-assessment, 82% of participants stated that their skin looked more hydrated after 56 days, and 73% said the active ingredient increased softness and achieved a soothing effect.

Alongside these in vivo tests, in vitro tests using an innovative 3D model have also confirmed that the active ingredient helps to support the skin’s microbial and physical barriers and to reduce inflammatory mediator release.

What other solutions do you offer for dermocosmetics?

Our innovators are incredibly active in this field. We operate three platforms that make it possible for us to offer breakthrough technologies for different skin conditions – extraction, microbiome, and epigenetics. And we use our 3D-modelling expertise to demonstrate the efficacy of new ingredients.

As a result, our dermocosmetic portfolio now includes ingredients for oily skin8 that is prone to acne or blemishes, as well as one for oily and sensitive scalp9. Our best allies to moisturise the skin10 are supported by active ingredients that both help to support the physical and microbial barrier11. Regarding sensitive skin, we offer an ingredient that brings emotional comfort12, whereas two further help to reduce redness13 and to soothe sensitive scalps14.

Of course, we also have a strong approach to well-aging, either with our natural retinol-like solution15 or strong lifting peptides16. Our portfolio also includes products to target skin colour issues such as pigmented spots17 and our fucoidan-rich algae extract18 with fast benefits on dark circles and crow’s feet wrinkles.

All these trendy ingredients were specifically designed for dermocosmetics and offer high quality, safety to the consumer and demonstrated benefits backed by strong in vitro and in vivo evidence. 

How do you expect this trend to develop in the future?

We anticipate that the trend for dermocosmetics will continue highlighting specific molecules or ingredients that consumers recognise for helping to improve skin challenges. However, trends are constantly evolving, and consumers are always looking for innovation and novelty. We have already seen some big brands enriching their products with pro-, pre-, and post-biotics to protect the microbiome. Some have also started exploring the use of natural peptides to support a specific skin mechanism.

Personalisation and user experience are at the heart of daily life in the modern world. On top of this, consumers are increasingly seeking to adopt a more environmentally sustainable and ethical lifestyle. We expect growing popularity for dermocosmetic products that are based on natural ingredients and that deliver specific solutions to the consumer’s unique needs. Microbiome approaches could be a first step, followed by epigenetic approaches. Both would allow consumers to better understand and take care of the ecosystem of microflora – or to finetune the protection against epigenetic driven visible skin damages.

Another driver of personalisation are digital devices for use at home. They allow consumers to, for example, obtain daily updates on the condition of their skin and adjust their personal care routine accordingly. We expect that both trends – dermocosmetics and home devices – will drive each other further

References:

 1 Silva, C. Exploring the Evolving Landscape of Dermocosmetics. 2021. Euromonitor International. https://www.euromonitor.com/article/exploring-the-evolving-landscape-of-dermocosmetics

 2 Mintel. (2021). Patent Insights: What’s Next in Anti-Acne Skincare. https://store.mintel.com/report/patent-insights-whats-next-in-anti-acne-skincare

 3 Mintel. (2020). Patent Insights: Prebiotics For a Healthy Skin Microbiome. https://store.mintel.com/report/patent-insights-prebiotics-for-a-healthy-skin-microbiome

 4 Market Data Forecast. (2021). Global Atopic Dermatitis Treatment Market Size, Share, Trends, COVID-19 Impact & Growth Analysis Report (2021 to 2026). □

 5 Castaline

 6 Tanei, R., Hasegawa, Y. Atopic Dermatitis in Older Adults: A Viewpoint from Geriatric Dermatology. 2016. Geriatr Gerontol Int 16 (suppl 1):75-86.

 7 Borok J., Matiz C., Goldenberg A., Jacob SE. Contact Dermatits in Atopic Dermatitis Children – Past, Present and Future. Clin Rev Allergy Immunol. 2019, 56: 86-98.

 8 Bix’Activ and Betapur

 9 Scalposine

10 Hydagen Aquaporin and PatcH2O

11 Relipidium and Phytosoothe

12 Sacred Patch

13 Inolixir

14 PeptAIde 4.0

15 Nephoria

16 For example: Peptovitae Matrix

17 DN-Aura

18 Seanactiv

Lucilene Veira Nunes,
Head of Business Management for Active Ingredients EMEA,
BASF, Monheim,
Germany,
www.carecreations.basf.com 

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