Challenges in sun care: COSSMA

The development of new UV filters and products is not just about effectiveness and sustainability. The education of consumers and the impact of the coronavirus crisis on the industry are also currently playing a major role, as Dr Myriam Sohn explains.

Interview with:

Dr Myriam Sohn,
Senior Application Technology Scientist,
BASF Grenzach GmbH,
Grenzach-Whylen, Germany,

www.carecreations.basf.com

COSSMA: Which challenges are you currently facing in sun care?

Dr Myriam Sohn: Developing a sunscreen with a high SPF has become a challenge in itself, not least due to the uncertain future faced by some approved UV filters. Increasing concerns as to how safe two widely used UVB filters – Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and Octocrylene (OCR) – are for humans and the environment has led the legal situation to become unclear. OCR and EHMC are globally registered UVB filters that were ingredients present in 37% and 44% of sunscreens launched in 2018, respectively. So far, the discussed UV filters have not lost their approval in Europe, but some are the subject of investigation initiated either at the level of REACH or the EU Commission and SCCS. The latest innovations came from BASF, but we are having to deal with more and more hurdles when it comes to registering new UV filter molecules and the procedures are often protracted. Two new molecules – Phenylene bis diphenyltriazine and Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyano acetate – were recently listed in Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and, according to the best of our knowledge, are not freely accessible on the market. In addition, consumers are increasingly voicing concerns regarding the safety profile of some UV filters, such as nano-particulate ones. Although these specific concerns are not based on scientific evidence, some sunscreen manufacturers are nevertheless taking them into consideration. These factors – the unclear legal situation paired with consumer concerns – are compelling sunscreen manufactures to remove some widely used UV filters from their new sunscreen products. This, in turn, presents a real challenge in terms of creating high performance sunscreen formulations.

How do you overcome these challenges?

Highly efficient triazine UV filters could be used to develop efficient sunscreens without EHMC and OCR. There are also alternatives to nanoparticulate UV filters although without a doubt the latter offer multiple benefits. But all is about compromises, e.g. by accepting the use of nano-particulate UV filters when the primary goal is to develop an environmentally safe sunscreen that contains no EHMC or OCR. Another factor to consider is that the restricted choice of UV filters is expected to impact the product’s cost. A further very important aspect to us is consumer education. We take concerns of end consumers very seriously and want to be transparent about the safety of UV filters and sun care products in general. We believe it is necessary to clarify a few myths about sun protection.

What do you mean when you refer to consumer education?

Sunscreens and UV filters are subject to broad public debate, not least on social media channels. Although many bloggers and journalists are well informed about cosmetics, there is still a great amount of false or scientifically unsubstantiated information circulating about cosmetic ingredients in general and UV filters specifically. For example, over the last few years the reputation of nano particulate UV filters has been adversely affected by negative publicity in the press and consumer apps – despite having undergone a complex registration process to demonstrate their safety. To add a fresh voice to the discussion and provide some expert insights and transparency, we launched a microsite for sun care and made the company’s expertise available to customers and end consumers. On this site, we cover all aspects of sun care topics. This includes exploring the latest trends and skin types, discussing light spectrum and solar radiation, and explaining the different UV filter types and how they work.

How do you differentiate between different types of UV filters?

Sunscreen filters absorb and may additionally also reflect and scatter UV radiation. There are different misleading terms employed to classify and describe filters, which can sow confusion among consumers and the media and adversely affect the image or acceptance of some filters. For example, so-called natural filters are not truly natural because they are chemically produced/transformed. From our point of view, it is more accurate to classify them as organic filters (carbon-based) or inorganic filters (carbon-free); the latter are mineral- based on zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Both types reduce the amount of UV light that penetrates the skin by absorption. Since inorganic filters are particles, they can scatter and reflect light. The same applies to organic filters in particulate form, e.g. Tinosorb M or Tinosorb A2B. Most available organic filters are soluble/ miscible in cosmetic oils or in water. Taken together, the production of all filters – organic and inorganic – is based on chemical processes. Protection from UV radiation is provided mainly through absorption, and additionally in a smaller proportion through scattering and reflection for the inorganic and organic particulate ones.

What are some key current trends in sun care?

The top priority is to ensure a high SPF with broad-spectrum protection. Another major topic of discussion is to provide sun protection that goes beyond UV and incorporates visible or blue light protection. Water-resistant sunscreen products

without white residue are also in high demand. From a sensorial point of view, products that are lighter, non-sticky, easy to apply and available in different formats (lotions, sprays, oils, sticks, etc.) are sought after. We offer a very broad portfolio of UV filters on the market, plus a wide range of emollients and emulsifiers that allow manufacturers to create formulations to meet all these market demands. One key driving factor within the cosmetics industry is the “back to nature” trend. It is having a major impact on the field of sun care as well. Many people are concerned about climate change and its consequences for our planet and are trying to change their behaviour as a result. Eco-conscious consumers are increasingly looking for more sustainable products with improved environmental compatibility. Public discussion focuses primarily on the damage UV filters may cause on ecosystems given that they tend to be released directly into the environment.

How do you help manufacturers to formulate sunscreens that meet the demands of eco-conscious consumers?

To assess the environmental impact of UV filters used in sunscreen formulations, BASF has developed the Eco- Sun Pass. This methodology supports the transparent and holistic assessment of UV filters based on internationally recognized criteria. It considers eight different parameters, i.e. acute and chronic aquatic toxicity, endocrine suspicion, and biodegradation. Our EcoSun Pass is the first scientifically sound and transparent system to evaluate the environmental impact of UV filters and offers a way to develop sunscreens with improved environmental compatibility. It is based on the latest scientific findings, which improves regulatory acceptance. The use of UV combinations of highly efficient filters requiring low-use concentrations with the best ecotoxicological profiles allows manufacturers to develop optimized, ecologically sustainable sunscreens.

There is much interest in boosting the performance of UV filters through the use of low concentrations. How can this be achieved?

There are different ways to boost photoprotection. One is by optimising the efficacy of the UV absorption system by combining molecules that absorb both UVB and UVA, factoring in the photostability of the UV filters individually and in combination, and synergising water and oil-dispersed UV filters. The addition

of scattering particles can also enhance the efficiency of the UV filter system by increasing the optical path length. Another way to boost performance is to improve the film-forming properties of the product during spreading which can be achieved by adding film formers, choosing a suitable sunscreen vehicle, and focusing on viscosity.

How is Covid-19 affecting the sun care industry?

The Covid-19 pandemic has had a significant impact on the industry in recent months. Due to farreaching travel restrictions, the demand for sun care products has decreased greatly, though we expect it to eventually return to the same level as before, after the crisis. Meanwhile, general awareness of health issues is increasing, with sun protection being an important aspect of this. This is the reason why we are continuing to invest in expanding our capacity, such as for Uvinul A Plus, one of the few photostable UVA filters available on the market today – it reliably filters out the sun’s dangerous UVA rays and provides outstanding protection from free radicals and skin damage.