Well-being with Neurocosmetics?

Well-being is a trend which has been developing over the last five years. In 2015, Belinda Carli, director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, is quoted on cosmeticsdesign.com: “Neuro- cosmetics are the next logical step in the move towards well-being and the sensory”. In 2020, industry expert George Deckner  featured warming and cooling sensates on ULProspector in his article “Cool off or Warm up with Neurocosmetics”. The in-cosmetics 2020 ingredient data base lists 534 ingredients attributed to the word botox and 35 attributed to well-being. Typical claims of the botox-like ingredients in the in-cosmetics data base included antiwrinkle, anti-stretch mark, firming, lightening, conditioning, soothing, and anti-blemish effects.

Mood changer?

Are neurocosmetics also capable of changing emotions and “well-being” is then changing the skin? What if consumers´ moods in a polluted world full of stress could be biochemically regulated by a skin care product? Can the consumer be refreshed like after an ayurvedic treatment or some Zen meditation by simply applying a cream? Neurocosmetics can have this mode of action. Skin’s nerve fibres can be stimulated physically, chemically, and emotionally. Furthermore, skin, brain and nervous system have the same embryonic origin, the ectoderm, and are interconnected. And skin is a neuroimmunological organ. So, what are neurocosmetics all about?

Scientific definition and philosophy

Prof. Laurent Misery of the University of Brest defined neurocosmetics as “products applied onto the skin [...], having activity on the cutaneous nervous system, or, in general, have effects on skin mediators”. The concept is based on a combination of the NICE (nervous, immune, cutaneous and endocrine system) and the TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) approach. Other traditional medical approaches led to the development of a product from Givaudan Active Beauty with the In-Cosmetics best ingredient award: Neurophroline (Water, Propanediol and Tephrosia purpurea seed extract), known from Ayurvedic Medicine. The ingredient is based on Tephrosia purpurea, a wild indigo plant from India, which reduces the production of cortisol in skin cells by 70% in two hours, activates the release of a natural calming neuropeptide and stimulates the synthesis of beta-endorphins (up to +163%) which leads to a better skin feel and a visibly improved skin tone in two weeks.

Stimulation or inhibition

Ingredients of neurocosmetics and final products act through two main mechanisms; they either modulate skin cell functions, equipped with receptors that bind neuromodulators which are released from skin neurons or act via direct  modulation on the cutaneous nerve endings. They are designed to stimulate or inhibit neuro receptors in skin, which are in the upper layers of the epidermis and the dermis and have a significant impact on consumer sensory perception. Thus, perception of cooling, warming, itching (pruritus), burning, stinging, tightness, and pain is possible through skin receptors detecting temperature (thermoreceptors), pressure/ touch (mechanoreceptors), and pain (nocireceptors).

The effects may be a perception of cooling or freshness by menthol and derivatives, relaxation of facial muscles, decrease of wrinkles by botox- like peptides; or the inhibition of the neuronal response to different environmental stimuli such as temperature changes, air humidity or smog in hypersensitive skin. Some irritation caused by cosmetic products is related to the activation of specific types of neurosensory receptors. Warming and cooling sensates work by activating different neuro responsive transient receptor potential cation channnels (TRP channels). Every type of TRP channel is a receptor specifically responding to temperature ranges. TRPV-3 and TRPV-4 are produced by keratinocytes. Their activation can positively influence skin barrier formation. TRPV-3 has been shown to control keratinocyte migration, and wound healing, and to stimulate skin growth factors TGF-α /EGF.

Anti-ageing products for sensitive skin

Neurocosmetic ingredients modulate important chemicals in the skin which prolong cell life and/or regulate responses to inflammation. Visible results are anti-ageing effects, reduced sensitivity to products, a healthier “glow” and smoother, more radiant skin. The products are beneficial to consumers with very sensitive skin or intolerance to certain chemicals who are looking for effective anti-ageing products that provide visible results without irritation. According to Belinda Carli, the effectiveness of these ingredients could be the real game changer.

Active ingredients in neurocosmetics

An ingredient capable of delaying skin ageing, thermal ageing, and working as a key mediator for pain and itch sensation in skin, is Defensil- Soft (Propanediol, Albatrellus Ovinus Extract and Citric Acid) by Rahn USA, a neurosoother from an edible mushroom, Albatrellus ovinus, also known as Northern truffle. The ingredient effectively inhibits TRPV-1. This TRP is sensitive to temperatures over 43 C. The claim is “zen-like soothing and anti-aeging effects”. The Tremella fuciformis fungus (Snow fungus) is used in natural three-dimensional masks with calming and deeply moisturizing properties by Arkana Cosmetics from Poland. The company has a range of products targeting neuromodulation in skin, including actives like Gaba, and CBD. The Neuro Gaba Lift Mask MD of Arkana won the Cosmoprof Awards 2019. In 2015, Belinda Carli pointed out the launches of several new ingredients: Happybelle-PE (Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 2014), Bosexil (Indena, 2014), Neurodermine (Matriscience, 2015), Mariliance (Soliance, 2015).

Happybelle-PE contains phyto-endorphins from Vitex agnus castus for a youthful glow. In vitro tests have proven that the complex extract stimulates cell activity and increases Collagen I and III. In vivo, skin moisture and skin tone are increased, and wrinkle depth decreased. A special approach are Chitin Nanofibrils (CN) which form blockcopolymers with hyaluronic acid. Pierfrancesco Morganti and co-authors have reported on this “natural ingredient for advanced neurocosmetics”. While some ingredients are traditionally used in cooling and warming applications, derivatives or blends of them are now in the spotlight.

Warming and cooling

The only warming agent used in skin care is Vanillyl Butyl Ether (VBE). VBE activates the TRPV-1 channel and induces vasodilation. The adverse effect may be burning, stinging or redness reactions. Thermolat by Symrise, a 40%-active product (Vanilllyl Butyl Ether, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol and Ascorbyl Palmitate) inhibits the TREK-1 receptor by using 1,2-Hexanediol, thus helps to reduce VBE induced skin irritation. The product allows a pleasant sensation of warmth, is safe and gentle for skin.

Cooling sensates like Menthol, which activates the TRPM-8 receptor (under a temperature of 25 to 28 C), are common but also have slight disadvantages. Derivatives with reduced smell and irritation are significantly more expensive. They include Menthyl Lactate, Menthanediol, Menthoxypropanediol, and Menthone Glycerin Acetal. Frescolat Plus by Symrise (Menthol and Menthyl Lactate) is a costeffective liquid used as a cooling agent in lotions. It is odourless and tasteless, easy to use and solubilize. The cooling effect is long lasting and pleasant. Givaudan Active Beauty offers Questice Plus (Menthyl PCA, and Menthol and Dipropylene Glycol). Sensitive skin can be treated with TRPV-1 inhibitors like SymSitive 1609 by Symrise (Pentylene Glycol and 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol).

This product has shown to inhibit stinging/burning reactions caused by other ingredients like Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, and Benzyl alcohol.