Ultimate Protection

COSSMA: What is your botanical based on and what makes it so special?

Valentina Mastria: Pantrofina Skin 360 is a Cosmos botanical active ingredient derived from Pinus Pinaster bark extract solubilized in digly­cerin. The marine pine survives, and thrives, in extreme environmental conditions; it flourishes in places too sunny, too windy, or too dry for other plants to grow. 

In order to survive in this harsh environment, the pine has developed defence mechanisms against environmental and other external ag­gressors. A single ingre­dient offering complete anti-aging action for the skin, Pantrofina Skin 360 offers ultimate protection against air pollutants. Thanks to its anti-oxidant power and soothing properties, it preserves the skin’s youth.□

What are its benefits?

Pantrofina Skin 360 improves the synthesis of collagen type I and aids in the recovery process of fibroblasts exposed to oxidative stress. It also plays an active role in the stimulation of energetic metabolism. Pantrofina Skin 360 is good anti-pollution agent; it acts both as a strong antioxidant and as an effective soothing agent. It has been proven to visibly reduce acne and micro-wrinkles.

How have these benefits been proven?

Pantrofina Skin 360 has been tested both in vitro and in vivo. In vitro tests demonstrate that Pantrofina Skin 360 avoids the complete consumption of the cell’s ATP reserves, even when exposed to a source of oxidative stress such as UVA radiation. 

The ingredient shows a greater free radical scavenging activity when compared to Vitamin C (present for example in oranges and citrus fruits) and solubilized Vitamin E acetate (found in olive oil and almonds).  It neutralizes free radicals from indoor and outdoor dust with a statistically significant positive action against oxidative damage. Pantrofina Skin 360 has been demonstrated to have a strong soothing action even in comparison to alpha-Bisabolol. In vitro, it significantly inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines IL6 & IL8 release in conditions of stress and IL8 release in fibroblasts pre-exposed to UVB. In vivo, clinical and instrumental parameters collected have shown an anti-acne and anti-wrinkle effect.  

What do you believe is the essence of clean beauty?

Clean beauty is a very wide and diverse concept; with this term, different micro-trends of contemporary cosmetics converge. It confirms consumers’ attention and choice towards natural, “clean”, simple formulations that avoid the use of what are considered “unhealthy” ingredients. 

I believe it can be described with three words:  simplicity, transparency and sustainability. Clean beauty is a synonym for simplicity - formulations which contain few essential but effective ingredients are a concrete example of clean beauty. Transparency of the product’s texture, formulation, product and routine communication. 

Sustainability in the raw materials, in the process behind production of ingredients and the formulation itself. Sometimes, this also means formulating without water or in a water-saving approach.   

In what way is this botanical compatible with clean beauty values?

Pantrofina Skin 360 is a botanical active ingredient; plant-based, it is easily identified by consumers as natural.  Because it has demonstrated multifunctional properties, this single ingredient supports more than one claim at the same time, greatly simplifying formulations. Its affinity with water also makes it a key active ingredient for the development of concentrates, ampoules, serums and essences with a transparent appearance. Its botanical origin and Cosmos certification make it perfect for brands that make clean beauty their manifesto.