Tree exudates instead of petrochemicals

Over the past ten years, the cosmetics market has completely changed. The move towards natural products is now the norm, with natural and ‘organic’ cosmetics occupying a large share of the global beauty market. Initially the preserve of niche brands, this market has now been penetrated by big manufacturers who want to respond to the current trend and are choosing various options to position themselves. Shortening ingredient lists, offering more sustainable packaging, and formulating products with organic ingredients are among the most popular approaches.

Today, these trends are gathering pace. Awareness of climate and environmental issues has made consumers more conscious of the products they buy. Cosmetics now have to meet increasingly demanding criteria, and sustainable development is a very important consideration: you have to do good for your body without harming the planet. Cosmetics need to be sustainably produced, not pollute the environment, and not contribute to the decline of biodiversity. Ethical commitment is not to be outdone, with, for example, consumers refusing to buy products of animal origin in formulations. Brands have to be committed to these issues and it is now their responsibility to limit, wherever possible, negative impacts on our environment.

Current functionals

From a formulation point of view, the beauty industry still needs to innovate to meet these social expectations. Despite high demand, many cosmetics still contain synthetic products with poor biodegradability or that are polluting. Among them, texturing agents and synthetic surfactants with excellent viscosifying, emulsifying and suspensoid properties give creams just the right texture and gels perfect clarity.

Carbomers, for instance, are widely used for their gelling, texturising and emulsifying properties. However,they are petrochemical-based ingredients which use increasingly scarce energy resources and whose production is bad for the environment. It may seem difficult to replace them, but natural bio sourced solutions do exist.

Natural alternatives

European regulations govern cosmetic ingredients. Manufacturers must now make use of innovation to find sustainable and effective substitutes for problematic components. Today, we can now offer credible solutions thanks to research.

Several hydrocolloids such as gum sterculia and gum acacia are multifunctional, natural, and plant-based alternatives. For example, they can be used to create a variety of textures and gels very similar to those obtained with synthetic texturising agents, to replace polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or to stabilise emulsions. These gums are tree exudates which are transformed non-chemically, so they provide maximum durability and naturalness.

For functional ingredients, the originality of cosmetic formulations could lie in the synergy phenomena afforded by the combination of different natural hydrocolloids. This makes it possible to combine their various advantages and optimise their rheological properties. A patent for the combination of gum sterculia and gum acacia has already been filed in early 2022. 

Change of the perspective

In the skincare cosmetics sector, more environmentally friendly solutions may also find their place in the ‘active’ segment. Caffeine, for instance, will help combat cellulite, algae will have a moisturising and soothing effect, and gum acacia will be used for its firming effects in anti-ageing treatments. Furthermore, natural and eco-friendly alternatives are most often ethical, and can replace controversial products of animal origin such as gelatine or animal collagen. 

The beauty industry will have to be particularly innovative if it is to rise to environmental challenges and meet the requirements of consumer-citizens. But the latter will also need to be prepared to change their expectations. They may have to make concessions on the shelf life of a product or stop looking for the perfect texture.

In Ayurvedic beauty, only edible products are applied to the skin. This principle opens up a multitude of possibilities for the cosmetics industry: spices are becoming ‘active ingredients’, natural hydrocolloids ‘texturising agents’, and caramel a ‘dye’ among other examples. Everything we encounter in our daily lives could be used in cosmetics that are healthier for consumers and kinder to the planet.