The Burdens of urban lifestyles: COSSMA

One issue that concerns consumers is the impact of urban lifestyles on scalp and hair health. Dandruff, oily hair and itchy sensations are among the main problems for which BASF has now developed an active ingredient.

More than half of the world’s population currently lives in urban areas – and this is expected to reach 70% by 2050. While city living can be dynamic and exhilarating, it also exposes the hair and scalp to a range of factors that affect their beauty and vitality. Stress, pollution and hairstyling can cause the sebaceous glands in the hair follicles to produce too much sebum, which makes

hair greasy or oily. And – less well known until recently – dust or pollution can form deposits on the scalp and hair fibres that gradually asphyxiate the important microbes living there, leading to skin discomfort, irritation and sometimes dandruff. Consumers are increasingly aware of the need to counteract the impact that their urban lifestyle has on their hair and scalp. A Mintel survey in Italy, for example, showed that 52% of respondents are interested in haircare products that prevent the build-up of pollution, while 31% of people in India indicate that stress has an impact on the appearance of their hair. In Brazil, 54% of consumers are worried about the health of their scalp¹. These concerns are driving a trend for specialized hair care products around the world.

Figure 1: Effect of Sarcosine 0.7% on the enzyme responsible for the transformation of testosterone in DHT. BASF

Fragile microbiota

The scalp supports several types of micro-organisms living in harmony with human scalp cells. The combination of grease and pollution changes the physical parameters of the scalp – and this disrupts the fragile balance of the microbiome. Despite this, most of the solutions on the market focus on managing dandruff with anti-fungal ingredients rather than purifying the scalp and resetting its microbial system.

A new active ingredient, Scalposine (INCI: Sarcosine), removes grease and impurities while replenishing beneficial strains of microbes in the scalp. The active takes advantage of the amino acid derivate Sarcosine. It is naturally found in the skin and is known as a health and wellness booster since it is a precursor of glycine, an essential amino acid which participates in the building of major skin macromolecules such as elastin and collagen.

Figure 2: Sarcosine at 1% offers a significant sebum reduction. BASF

Figure 4: With Sarcosine at 1%, the number of microbial taxa increases by 36% vs Placebo in one month. BASF

Reducing oily scalp

Studies have indicated that Sarcosine controls the production of sebum. This production process takes place in the sebaceous gland when specific receptors are activated by a form of testosterone called DHT. In vitro trials showed that Sarcosine at a dose of 0.71% reduces the gene expression of the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into DHT by 77% (Figure 1, p 11), which led to a reduction in DHT production of 36% in vitro.In vivo, Sarcosine has been proven to decrease the overproduction of sebum.

It was tested during a onemonth placebo-controlled clinical study on the scalp that involved two groups of participants (Placebo: n=12; Sarcosine: n=17). The participants were aged from 19 to 66 and all had an oily scalp (sebumeter> 120). After one month, shampoo containing Sarcosine at 1% significantly reduced sebum (-20% vs Placebo) (Figure 2).

During the same study, 82% of participants also reported an immediate soothing effect on the scalp. Some of the volunteers even saw their flakiness decrease by up to 75% after one month. This is an important outcome because dandruff is a pressing concern for many adults worldwide. In addition, participants also stated that they were able to wait for longer between washing their hair with shampoo – saving them time and potentially reducing their environmental footprint.

Figure 3: Illustrative pictures on the visible effect of Sarcosine at 1% towards flake removal after 14 and 28 days of application (Trichoscience Scope. BASF

Scientific studies

Sarcosine has also been proven to reset and rebalance the microbiome ecosystem of the scalp, which had been almost unexplored until now. In a metagenomic study, BASF explored the difference between the microbiota of a normal scalp and that of an oily scalp. The analysis was conducted on 40 volunteers with an oily scalp and 28 volunteers with a normal scalp. Scientific literature had already shown that skin microbiota diversity decreases in oily areas of skin like the forehead². The new analysis confirmed that the diversity of the microbiota is lower on an oily scalp than on a normal scalp. In addition, six strains of bacteria were successfully identified that have a major presence on a normal scalp and that contribute to overall scalp health. Based on this, the experts conducted a further metagenomic analysis to compare the effect of a shampoo formula containing Sarcosine at 1% to a placebo formula. It was tested during a onemonth placebo-controlled clinical study that involved two groups of participants (Placebo: n=12 / Sarcosine: n=17). The participants (both genders) were aged from 19 to 66 and all had an oily scalp (sebumeter >120). The researcher found that the shampoo containing Sarcosine increased the diversity of the microbiome of the scalp after one month of application – with the number of species increasing by 36% (Figure 4). Furthermore, Sarcosine also boosts the recolonization of the ecosystem by the six beneficial strains of bacteria that the researchers previously identified. This represents a prebiotic effect, as it stimulates the growth of advantageous bacteria in the scalp.

Conclusion

The global trend for urbanization is driving consumer demand for solutions that counteract the negative impact that stress, pollution and hairstyling products have on their hair and scalp. Sarcosine can act as a scalp detox to restore the beauty and health of the hair and scalp. By reducing sebum production and encouraging beneficial strains of microbes, this new cosmetic ingredient helps prevent scalp asphyxiation and reduce flaking, itching and a greasy appearance after one month of application.