Natural Ingredients with clinical standards: COSSMA

Few trends have remained a constant in the way ‘clean beauty’ has, with consumers continuing to opt for products that feature natural ingredients. Similarly, the category of clinically proven skincare products has emerged as a big parallel trend. Current studies show how both trends can be united.

More recently, these two trends have merged into a newly popular category called ‘cleanical’ skincare which pairs natural ingredients with clinical standards to address multiple skin concerns. Over the past few years, this trend has entered the industry in line with increasing consumer awareness of ingredients and product efficacy, all while brands are recognising that consumers want to see real results but want their products to contain ingredients that they feel are safe and ethically produced.

The ‘cleanical’ trend directly addresses the consumer debate between choosing products that are considered natural but aren’t potentially as effective, and clinical lab-made products that are considered more effective and targeted to a specific concern, creating a perfectly balanced alternative.

Comprised of 125 structural compounds, the active component in sandalwood oil, alpha-santalol, targets myriad skin issues including well-ageing, acne, and inflammation. It has been proven to be a natural anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and skin brightening ingredient, along with being a powerful antioxidant.

Indian sandalwood

In 2021 in an in vitro study, skin cells were exposed to a source of solar blue light, and those cells produced reactive oxygen species, which begins a cascade of reactions detrimental to healthy skin. However, when the cell cultures were treated with sandalwood oil, production of reactive oxygen species reduced by up to 76%. This was measured against the lipophilic antioxidant vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) with sandalwood oil performing 30 – 40% better at a recorded reduction¹.

Skin cells were also exposed to a source of blue light, and those cells produced reactive oxygen species, which begins a cascade of reactions detrimental to healthy skin. However, when the cell cultures were treated with sandalwood oil, production of reactive oxygen species reduced by up to 76%.

The study also found that the oil is capable of significantly decreasing the damage to collagen in skin tissues caused by stressors such as blue light from solar, and pollution from cigarette smoke.

In vivo: oxidative stress

To continue this efficacy testing, in 2022 an in vivo study reinforced that Indian sandalwood is a powerful antioxidant and offers protection against environmental blue light damage. To evaluate the effects of this oil on skin, the level of oxidised squalene was monitored as a measurement of skin oxidation. The study assessed the protective effect of a cosmetic product containing the oil against cutaneous oxidative stress induced by environmental pollution.

The study, which was the first of its kind, proved that Indian sandalwood at concentrations of 0.1%, 1% and 10%, protects the skin against the oxidative stress in-duced by ambient dust and environmental blue light (at a wavelength of 412 nm) exposure, and the overall efficacy is comparable to the topical skin protective effect of Vitamin E².

The results indicated that there was a dose-dependent decrease in the levels of free radical damage, with a concentration of Indian sandalwood (1%) representing a 24% decrease in squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) compared to non-treated study areas.

Demand on natural ingredients

It is a widely held belief from consumers that natural ingredients are better in formulations. This belief continues to drive demand, and trends like the ‘cleanical’ category only further propel this.

Today’s beauty buyer is savvy and educated on what a sustainably produced product might look like, using guideposts such as environmentally friendly packaging, cruelty-free practices, and ethically sourced ingredients to determine their purchasing decisions. Consumers are willing to delve right down to the ingredient level seeking natural, non-toxic, and responsibly grown ingredients that are safe and deliver results.

Ingredient producers that are committed to sustainable production can help brands create a compelling product that meets these consumer demands.

Consumers’ purchase path

Consumers are shifting their perception of beauty towards a more holistic ‘beauty from the inside out’ viewpoint. Selfcare has taken centre stage, the line between cosmetics and wellness products is blurring, and the demand for multi-functional products and ingredients that deliver strong and visible results has never been more important and the ‘cleanical’ category in skincare is a clear outcome of this.

References:

1 www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/53

2 www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/2/35