More than just UV protection: COSSMA

Interview with:

Dr William Johncock
Senior Vice President,
Global Head of Sun Protection,
Symrise
Holzminden, Germany

www.symrise.com

Cossma: What have been the latest scientific findings in sun care?

Dr William Johncock, Symrise: Sun care is not just about protection from UV radiation, as the skin is not only exposed to UV radiation from the sun, but also to infrared and visible radiation. Recent research has outlined that the skin is also damaged by excess exposure to these rays and needs protection. The developments in this area coincide with the thoughts of an American dermatologist, Christopher Wild, who in 2005, coined the term “exposome” to describe the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death. He emphasised that for a better understanding of the interplay of the human body with the environment and the subsequent development of human pathologies (as well as non-pathological traits), a comprehensive knowledge of the totality of lifelong environmental (i.e. non-genetic) exposures is needed. This concept has been extrapolated by Professor Jean Krutmann in 2016 to define the skin ageing exposome as external and internal factors and their interactions as they affect a human individual from conception to death, as well as the response of the human body to these factors, that lead to biological and clinical signs of skin ageing1. Specifically, we propose that environmental factors that are part of the skin ageing exposome fall into the following major categories: sun radiation: ultraviolet radiation, visible light and infrared A radiation; air pollution; tobacco smoke; nutrition and certain others.

Symrise have developed ingredients which also protect against the consequences of infrared A, visible radiation and against pollution.

What are the most important product trends in sun care?

According to our comprehensive database of consumer insights from around the globe, consumers are well aware of the effects of the damages caused by the sun and are looking for products that not only protect the skin but also have ingredients that care for it as well, for example with increased hydration, which can be achieved by using Symrise’s SymGlucan and SymMollient S. Formulations designed for consumers who believe they have sensitive skin are becoming more prevalent, and the use of caring emulsifiers such as Emulsiphos or active ingredients that reduce sensitivity, such as SymSitive 1609, are ideal ingredients for such formulations.

In the market we find more products for special needs and skin conditions, such as oily or acne prone skin. In addition, we also see the use of mists, which provide ultra-light protection, for applying over make-up becoming more common.

The various areas of the light spectrum and their effects on the skin

What regional differences are there in the use of products?

Beach use of sunscreens is still predominantly seen outside of Asia, whereas in Asia the focus is still on daily protection with an emphasis on skin lightening and even skin tone.

What have been Symrise’s latest findings in the field of sun care?

With Dragosine in 2013, we were the first to introduce an ingredient to protect against the degradation of the extracellular matrix induced by IR-A. Recently, we proved that Dragosine and other Symrise ingredients such as SymVital AR or SymDetox provide efficient protection against blue-light-induced pigmentation. We have also developed multifunctional ingredients which also have some preservation activity. High SPF sunscreens are not easy to preserve and with the move away from traditional effective systems such as parabens, it has not been easy to find alternative solutions. Combining SymSave H with SymDiol 68 and other ingredients has provided effective solutions to this problem.

What are Symrise’s most suitable ingredients for sun care?

Our Neo Heliopan range of UV filters, including Neo Heliopan BMT2, which we launched in 2017. Our line of functional ingredients including our Cosmos-approved emulsifiers Emulsiphos, Dracorin GOC and Dracorin CE along with the emollient SymMollient S, which has proven moisturising properties and an extraordinary skin feel. Our active ingredient Dragosine to protect from IR-A and blue light, along with many other active ingredients we have in our portfolio.

These ingredients are suitable for all types of sun care formulations as they are easy to formulate with and have excellent stability and safety profiles.

The global use of UV filters is restricted by regional regulations, but we have a broad selection of UV filters which will fill the needs of all regions. As the awareness that the damage caused by the sun is not restricted to UV radiation grows, we provide active and functional ingredients that can be globally applied in many cases.

In what way is your offer in the field of sun care different?

Not only do we offer state of the art active and functional ingredients, we also work very closely with our fragrance division to bring complete solutions to our customers with our unique Beauty Plus program.

What have been the company’s most innovative sun care formulations?

We have many formulations that are de-signed to provide high and broad UV protection while also protecting against IR and visi-ble radiation, that have robust alternative preservation systems, that contain other caring ingredients, and are a sensorial pleasure to apply.

Do Symrise’s ingredients work in natural cosmetics sun care products?

Unfortunately all of our UV filters are syn-thetic and so cannot be claimed to be natural. However, we do have a broad pallet of plant-derived ingredients which can be used in natural cosmetics.