It’s all about texture

Strongly connected to self-expression, image, and identity, the natural texture of the hair has been adopted by many consumers who have curly, coily and kinky hair over the past few years^1,2. Textured hair can be classified according to the curvature of the strands in the Andre Walker hair typing system (1ABC-4ABC), which aims to help consumers feel more confident in choosing their hair treatment and care products. Another method, the examination of single fibres for their degree of curvature (I-VIII), is most commonly used by cosmetic industry researchers³. Because of its unique morphology and structure, textured hair is more prone to breakage. The greater fragility and breakage of the hair are evidenced mainly in its twist regions. In addition, textured hair gets tangled more easily, and the friction that occurs between the fibres in this condition also contributes to breakage, as well as inadequate detangling^4,5,6,7.

It’s not surprising that when we look at the responses to our consumer surveys, we find that people with textured hair – from curly to kinky hair – are most concerned about hair breakage. A very clear parallel can then be drawn between hair breakage and the desire for stronger and more resistant strands^1,8.

The cortex, the internal structure of the hair fibres, is responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair (see figure 1)^2,9. Peptides, which are low molecular weight structures composed by two or more amino acids, can penetrate through the hair fibres and reach the cortex. The ability of a peptide to bind to hair damage sites is influenced by its amino acid composition^10,11,12.

‘SymProt’in Oat’ is a biomimetic peptide produced via a patented, eco-friendly, innovative and selective enzymatic extraction. ‘SymProt’in Oat’ penetrates the hair cortex, where it can selectively target damaged areas thanks to its unique polar amino acids’ composition. Based on that, it adapts to the level of damage and improves the hair’s long-term resistance and reduces hair breakage (see figure 2 and 3).

In addition to stronger and more resistant hair, consumers still want their hair to be moisturised and soft, to have more volume and frizz control, a greater perception of shine, to repair split ends, and to use products that make detangling easier. The awareness that a healthy scalp contributes to healthier strands is also observed in the profile of consumers with textured hair^1,2,8. 

All these consumer “pains” about their textured hair are also explained by the natural characteristics of the hair. Generally, textured hair is reported as drier, duller and less moisturised, which affects shape and definition and frizz. As the hair has many different twist regions beginning from the root, the natural oiliness that lubricates the strand is not homogeneously distributed throughout its length, leading to the perception of roughness and dryness to the touch. Due to the curls and lack of moisturisation, the textured hair presents less shine. This is also caused by the dispersion of light, since hair is oriented in multiple directions and reflects light sparsely, unlike straight hair, for example, where the light reflects better thanks to its homogenous and practically flat surface.^4,9

The cell membrane complex (CMC) is primarily made of 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid). It binds or “glues” the cuticle and cortical cells together in keratin fibres.  With the degradation of the CMC, the keratin becomes more susceptible to chemical damages, the cuticles lose their cohesiveness and become more lifted, and the hair is perceived to have more frizz, less softness, shine, and definition⁴.

The ingredient SymHair Shape & Color was developed to replenish the hair’s lipid content (the CMC), protect its keratin, control frizz and volume, maintain texture and styling, and give the hair more moisture and shine.

A lower frequency of washing and a care routine that includes many products being applied directly to the hair root, can trigger scalp irritation processes, itching, dandruff formation, microbiome dysbiosis and even hair loss. The sensation of itchiness is one of the main complaints of consumers with textured hair in relation to the scalp. ‘Symsoft Scalp’ is an ingredient that shows results in wash-out formulations like shampoo.

As well as the development of ideal products that meet the needs of textured hair, it is also important to emphasise that evaluation and efficacy strategies should move forward with regard to new protocols and methodologies of testing. We can use the traditional combing test as an illustration, which is based on a wet or dry strength measurement, and where originally a fine comb is made that runs along the entire length of the strands. Is it viable to achieve results consistent with the nature of textured strands by combing them with fine-toothed combs? It is important to note that people with textured hair typically only comb their hair when it is wet, either during or immediately following washing.

The universe of textured hair is very specific. The curvature of the strands and the health of the scalp must guide the tests, product development, and customer satisfaction. Symrise’s hair research center has developed techniques for testing textured hair in partnership with TRI Princeton, aiming to leverage expertise on this topic, which has global market relevance.

References:

1. Symrise CICS database - Question 42A Imagine that for each of following hair & scalp problems we have a solution that works. For which ones are you willing to pay the most you can afford?
2. Mintel/Hair care reports.
3. Loussouarn, G., Garcel, A. L., Lozano, I., Collaudin, C., Porter, C., Panhard, S., et al. (2007). Worldwide diversity of hair curliness: A new method of assessment. Intl J Dermatol 46 suppl 1, 2-6.
4. Robbins, C. R. (2000). Physical and cosmetic behavior of hair. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hairs, Springer, New York 106-167.
5. Kamath, Y. K., Hornby, S. B., and Weigmann, H.-D. (1984). Mechanical and fractographic behavior of Negroid hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 35 21-43.
6. Menkart, J., Wolfram, L. J., and Mao, I. (1966). Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: Similarities and differences. J Soc Cos Chem 17 769-787.
7. Cornwell, P., Malinauskyte, E. (2020). Defying Damage: Understanding Breakage in Afro-Textured Hair, TRI Princeton.
8. Symrise CICS database 2021 – 5 countries.
9. Robbins, C. R. (2000). Physical and cosmetic behavior of hair. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hairs, Springer, New York 537-635.
10. Keis, K., Persaud, D., Kamath, Y.K., Rele, A.S., Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56:283–95
11. Robbins, C.R., Reich, C., Patel, A., Adsorption to keratin surfaces: A continuum between a charge-driven and a hydrophobically driven process. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 45, 85-94 (1994).
12. Fregonesi, A. et al., Brazilian oils and butters: The effect of different fatty acid chain composition on human hair physiochemical properties. J. Cosmet. SCI., 60, 273-280 (2009).