Gentle touch without microplastics: COSSMA

What options are there to create sustainability-oriented cosmetic formulations that do without microplastics but meet all sensor requirements? Alessandra Adduci and Stefania Zanzottera present new results.

Microplastics are used in a variety of shapes and sizes to give exfoliating and sensorial attributes to formulations. In recent years, their potentially negative impact on the environment has become a crux. Furthermore, consumer priorities have shifted considering eco-conscious lifestyle changes1.

The growing demand for eco-sustainable products and proces-ses have influenced the cosmetics industry. In fact, the beauty industry has renewed its sensitivity by rediscovering the specific use of natural ingredients and placing certain R&D determinants such as ecology, sustainability, and biodegradability at the centre of its policy. The question now is how to develop ingredients that are innovative and respect sustainability.

Figure 1: Sensorial analysis of skin care formula (natural primer).

Next generation

A new ingredient² is designed to leave-on applications and it aims at being the ethical alternative to plastic microbeads in cosmetics. It demonstrated proven performances against standard plasticising pow-ders and peculiar sustainable impact on the environment (readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B method). It is characterised by multiple functions (texturising, formula touch and stability, soft focus, versatility in use for both oil and water phase, and many others). A solution to formulate eco-sustainably, maintaining or improving the technical performances of standard, synthetic ingredients while replacing traditional plastic powders.

Figure 1: Sensorial analysis of suncare formula (medium protection sun milk).

Methods

Twenty trained panellists were enrolled to evaluate the sensory profile of the tested item in comparison with a selection of widely used microplastics-based ingredients in three different formulations belonging to skin care, sun care and colour cosmetics market segments. A substitution of the exact dosage % was performed for each formula:

Skin care: natural primer containing 2% of the tested ingredient vs. same formula with 2% Nylon-12
Sun care: medium protection sun milk containing 2% of the tested ingredient vs. same formula with 2% PMMA
Colour cosmetics: vibrant colour powder blush containing 1.8% of the tested ingredient vs. same formula with 2% Nylon-12

A score from 1 (poor) to 5 (excellent) was assigned as quantitative description in relation to selected attributes:

Skin care: softness, smoothness, greasiness, stickiness, film- forming effect, absorption rate
Sun care: softness, smoothness, stickiness, dry touch, spreadability, film-forming effect
Colour cosmetics: softness, smoothness, velvetiness, creaminess, covering power, colour uniformity

Data is expressed as the median scores recorded after product application.

Results

Tested item is used in skin care formulas for its good behaviour in terms of softness and absorption rate. It enhances formula touch improving the film-forming and smoothness effect. A lower greasiness and stickiness are also reported towards the benchmark. Additional benefits are sebum control, soft-focus effect3 and unification of complexion.

Incorporated in a sun care formula, it shows a remarkable skin feel effect without compromising formula consistency. Its porous structure allows the incorporation of active ingredients and the reduction of oil exudation, facilitating the formula dry touch.

Additional benefits are compatibility for chemical, physical, and natural UV filters, film-forming effect as well as an increase of the homogeneity of application and the retention on skin of UV filters5.

The ingredient could be used in formulations claiming to be ocean-friendly, reef-safe or in compliant with Hawaii Act 104.

In colour cosmetics, the ingredient can show pleasant texture by delivering soft and creamy touch, enhancing product’s spreadability and colour uniformity with strong covering power. Thanks to its spheroidal physical structure, it helps compactness and oils absorption with consequent skin matte effect.

Additional benefits are a smooth geel, creamy touch, and a unique gliding effect.

It is used in compact powders thanks to its binding activity. Increasing the formula strength, it allows reduced breakage. Good compatibility with mica, talc, lake, pearls, and organic as well as inorganic pigments.

Conclusions

Characterised by proven performances and tested safety, it shows the same applicative performances as standard texturisers recently used in the market. Formulators can easy substitute plastic microbeads with a technological sensorial sphere with the same sensorial performances but with a biodegradable profile.