Choosing the right additives

The pressure is on for personal care brands. There’s no doubt that we are in the midst of a particularly difficult retail environment and needing to cater to a market that’s more switched-on and engaged than ever before. ‘Getting it right’ with new product range extensions and launches has never been so crucial to commercial success. The message for formulators is that additive choice is more strategic than ever before, with shoppers wanting greater functionality and products to ‘do more’, while ultimately containing fewer ingredients under clean label principles

Achieving more with less

The connecting factor for many is that the demand to ‘do more with less’ is fuelling true innovation in formulations. A key example of this trend in action is with Filmexel, a naturally derived active for skin and hair products that doesn’t just play one role. In skin care formulations, this single ingredient offers anti-wrinkle and anti-blemish characteristics, in addition to powerful hydration, firming, brightening and softening skin. In hair care formulations, it is used for anti-dandruff qualities, alongside scalp soothing, hair growth and shine. The Pationics range from Rita also demonstrates multi-functionality in action. This selection, which includes Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate¹, is primarily a co-emulsifier designed for skin and hair care product formulations. However, it also works as a standalone hydration additive, able to hold moisture in the skin. A quarternised silicone and panthenol derivative² from Phoenix Chemical is an additive that makes use of an interesting material combination. It combines the benefits of both materials to help hair care brands ‘do more with less’. It reduces combing force requirements for both wet and dry hair, as well as forming a light, glossy and reflective shine.

The panthenol moiety, in combination with a solid dimethicone copolyol phosphate backbone, creates shine and hydration in one singular ingredient. By reducing the number of individual ingredient SKUs in the manufacturing process, there are clear advantages for brands in terms of streamlining procurement, auditing and handling and ultimately reducing costs. Importantly, it also plays to the clean labelling and multifunctional product trends too.

Simplifying premiumisation

Brands in personal care and cosmetics are finding new value in effect pigments. One of the key motivating sales drivers today is the trend toward premiumisation and a touch of luxury in more ‘everyday’ products. The challenge for product formulators is delivering a luxury feel without dramatically increasing costs with premium additive and ingredient selections. A selection of effect pigments fromshimmering to sparkling show that capturing the eye and the imagination doesn’t need to come with a premium cost.

As well as providing outstanding visual impact to personal care and cosmetic formulations, a versatile range of eco-friendly and certified freshwater biodegradable products can also be used in non-cosmetic applications.

Accelerating innovation

The range of ingredients from Erca Wilma are uniquely positioned to help formulators drive extra innovation value in product development. The range includes powerful emollients, which includes Isopropyl Myristate³ and Caprylic Capric Triglyceride⁴ well suited for skincare products, creating softer, smoother skin with a lighter feel than natural oils. In addition, solubilisers, which allow for the addition of perfumes and essential oils to water-based formulations, expand the creative potential available to product designers. New scents and flavours can be explored that were not previously compatible with water-based products such as shampoos and conditioners. As the consumer seeks a fresh experience as a form of escapism, the value for brands becomes very clear. A popular choice for brands looking to explore this range would be PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil⁵. 

Driving value and sales

In summary, formulators are thinking about additives in terms of ‘the long game’ and asking more strategic questions during additive selection. How can this ingredient offer long term value to my product by playing more roles? Can it deliver true innovation in my product range? Naturally, the needs of brands, which are in turn influenced by consumers, shape the additive market. The ranges we see today are developed by innovation-led manufacturers who are delivering streamlined and efficient solutions that are much more focused on adding cost-benefit value.

References

¹ Pationic ISL
² Pecosil PAN-418
³ IPM V
⁴ TCC V
⁵ Ercawax HC 40 V/FD