An individual & natural approach

Macrotrends for hair care do not differ significantly from those for skin care. A closer look at some current consumer trends show to what extent they influence the different categories of the personal care market1. One of the major global developments is the increasing demand for more natural products. In the last six months the claim which was used most frequently in hair care products, far more than any other claim, is “botanical/herbal”2. 

Personalisation going strong

A second further evolving trend concerns individualisation and personalisation. Consumers want products that are tailor-made to their personal routines and their individual hair and skin needs. 40% of the American make-up users aged 25­–34 indicate that they are frustrated by products that don’t match their skin tone. For hair care, a relevant example of a recently launched customised product is a shower watercolour spray creating a temporary tone, where the user can determine the intensity of the colour5. There is a shift to a generationless, ageless and genderless society: consumers don’t want to be put into a box or be grouped into categories.  They prefer to define for themselves what beauty is and make their own beauty choices. Developments in digital technology support this individualisation trend and will make shopping more personal. Beauty brands will be watching consumers’ every move as digital technology drives customisation of the shopping experience. Devices and apps allow the consumer to monitor their hair and skin condition on a regular basis and to receive individual advice.  

Consumers can follow tutorials and opinion-formers online, encouraging their empowerment. The popularity of buying cosmetic products online fits in this trend, and saves time as well, which is beneficial in terms of consumer convenience in our continually faster-moving world. 

How to replace silicones in hair care

Let us focus on the trend of replacement of silicone ingredients in hair care products. In addition to bioaccumulative concerns regarding silicones – they have already been detected in marine fishes and marine mammals6 – some silicones in hair care products can have a negative effect on the condition of the hair. They may lead to build-up, weighing down the hair, and causing it to look limp. On the other hand, it is undisputable that the shine and silky feel associated with silicones is unparalleled.

Several of our company‘s emollients can deliver silicone-like attributes. One of these is Crodamol STS, which offers many of the desirable attributes of silicones, especially in terms of shine. Based alone on the higher refractive index in comparison to commonly used silicones in hair care, a better shine effect would be expected. This was supported by results from a colour image analysis method determining shine, in which a commercial shine product with silicones and a product containing Crodamol STS were compared. Hair tresses treated with our emollient ester had visibly better shine properties.

Crodamol SFX possesses many of the sensory benefits of cyclomethicone D5. It can be used as a silicone alternative or in conjunction with other silicones to provide a desired sensory profile from both rinse-off and leave-on applications, leaving hair feeling smooth, moisturised and silky, with no sticky afterfeel. This emollient ester also imparts lubricity to hair fibres. In a study, this ingredient was post-added to a leading brand shampoo. A dry combing evaluation showed that it improved detangling from a rinse-off system by reducing the combing force. 

Another beneficial attribute associated with silicones in hair care is repair of hair damage and smoothening of the hair’s surface.

Crodabond CSA, a 100% naturally derived hair active, combines exactly these two characteristics. Due to damaging mechanical and chemical stresses on the hair, such as combing or bleaching, the cuticula on the hair surface lift, causing an unsmooth surface, which has a negative impact on shine and causes interfibre friction. Crodabond CSA effectively seals down the lifted cuticula on the hair shaft (fig. 2), improving the shiny, smooth and healthy appearance of the hair. Scanning Electron Microscopy pictures show that the effect is long-lasting the hair surface is still smooth after multiple shampoo washing cycles and the results outperform a benchmark product designed for hair repair. Simultaneously the combability is improved. The active ingredient is also able to bond and repair split ends lastingly, which reinforces the shinier and smoother look and also makes the hair feel smoother. The effect is consumer-perceivable, even after multiple shampoo washings.

Approaching the trend towards individualisation

Hair is a powerful extension of a consumer’s personality, reflecting their identity and offering opportunities to convey their thoughts and feelings. As a result, empowered consumers have long desired products which allow them the freedom to either embrace their natural style, enhancing what mother nature gave them, or adapt their hair in order to personify their self, with the freedom to change at their own convenience.

Kereffect SD is a novel keratin-derived product that allows individuals with hair of different curl types to style and manage their hair better to their own wishes. This ingredient prolongs the curl straightening efficacy of sodium sulfite in a heat-activated mechanism for wavy hair types,whereas it imparts very curly hair types more manageability. This new product offers consumers the power to change their hair style using a milder alternative to harsher straightening systems which can damage scalp and hair fibre. 

To evaluate the longevity of a Kereffect SD treatment, hair tresses were subjected to a series of repeated washing and drying cycles after the treatment. In recognition that consumers may treat their hair differently depending on time pressures in their daily routines, a test method was developed to allow the incorporation of different drying and styling methods to mimic ‘real-life’ consumer habits. 

The results show that the prolonged straightening effect of this ingredient on wavy hair types lasts up to 30 wash/drying cycles 
(fig. 3). The effect outperforms that of the commonly used straightening ingredients, which are much harsher. This was supported by additional studies. Image analysis quantified the straightening effect by determination of the curl factor through evaluation of pictures of hair fibres, analysing the angle of hair fibres at each individual pixel. Differential Scanning Calorimetry measurements have shown that the Kereffect SD/sodium sulfite system increases the level of bondings in the hair. Wet combing and tensile measurements have been performed to prove that this straightening system does not damage the structure of the hair fibre and that hair strength is maintained.

Whilst the ‘natural hair’ movement has seen many consumers with much tighter curls embrace their look, in line with the trend of consumers creating their own definition of beauty (see introduction), this often results in resigning themselves to a much more demanding hair care regime. Despite what the name suggests, maintaining natural hair is not simple for consumers with this type of curl and often requires multiple products, special treatments and intense styling regimes.

Croda‘s low molecular weight, hydrolysed keratin helps to loosen extremely tight curls for more manageable hair styles that appear longer in length (fig. 4).

Trends drive creative product and ingredient design

Recent consumer trends force personal care companies to increase their offer of natural and sustainable ingredients and finished products, as well as challenge them to reconsider their brand management and brand positioning in view of the consumer need to be treated as a unique individual rather than a person with a certain age, gender, or demographic background. This will no doubt drive the launch of new creative personal care ingredients and products in the coming years.