All about ingredients

The Ingredients Zone is a special area dedicated to raw materials, ingredients and fragrances, created to integrate and complete the showcase of the entire cosmetics industry supply chain on-site at Cosmopack Bologna from 21st - 23rd March. Some of the brands are already giving a glimpse into the importance of ingredients and which trends will influence the choice of ingredients and the whole market in the near future

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
Consumer awareness with demands for better transparency and honesty converge with rising constraints regulating marketing claims. These changes are shaking the Beauty and Personal Care Industry requesting more proof than ever for safe, clean and sustainable ingredients and formulations.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
In consequence of the above changes, the “less is more” or “sophisticated simplicity” trends should deeply influence thedevelopment of next generation ingredients and formulations. The difficulty for formulators will be to find natural highly standardised ingredients with multifunctional activities and supply chains to develop sustainable sourcing based on honesty and trust. The risk might be to have somehow too simple, not very efficient, formulas.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
In accordance to above trends, well defined multifunctional natural molecules with strong proof of efficacy, good biodegradability and sustainability should lead the market.

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
The beauty and personal care industry is more and more driven by a customer-centric view of the market. Manufacturers of cosmetic ingredients and formulas have to be aware of their customers’ opinions and needs, before deciding to elaborate a new product. As a distributor of cosmetic raw materials, we are constantly in contact with our providers and customers to help them understand the market changes better. Another parameter influencing the ingredients and formulations world would be the often-changing global regulations. This is why we have our own regulatory team of experts, ready to adapt processes and inform all parties.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
Undoubtedly the rise of ultra-digitalisation and the new tools that AI can offer us is an upcoming trend that formulators must keep in mind. Deep-learning and the understanding of huge amounts of data can lead to faster developments of formulas with more inclusivity. We are still at the early stages of it but expect to see more beauty companies experimenting with AI and providing ultra-personalised solutions to their customers. Another movement called “quiet beauty”, the evolution of minimalism, is also a growing trend, deeply connected to the consumer’s real life. It consists in prioritising the efficacy of the product with qualitative ingredients that are safe for the health and the planet. Consumers will attach more importance to tangible results, often shared on social media like Tik Tok or Instagram, rather than pretty packaging or other superficial factors. This may lead to a remodelling of pre-existing formulas to get rid of non-essential or potentially harmful ingredients, with reassuring communication campaigns. Consumers could also very well stop buying from their favourite brand to turn towards “dupe” products.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
Based on the study of the consumers’ behaviour and the new ingredients developments, I think that biomimetics and “human-like” ingredients will be a big hit in 2024. Collagen-like, ceramide-like, keratin-like… A long list of “like” ingredients will be preferred by beauty users because it reassures them on the efficacy and the safety of the components. On a very close thematic are also the highly effective ingredients without downside effects, natural versions of powerful molecules like tretinoin or retinol for example. Lastly, stress-relieving ingredients and all the “mind-skin” connection substances will get a boost of visibility, rather it is to calm the physical aspects of stress or to help boost the morale when going through changing stages of life like menopause or teenagerhood.

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
The beauty industry is undergoing a significant transformation marked by a heightened emphasis on embracing natural ingredients, prioritising sustainability, and tailoring products to individual preferences. Concurrently, there is an increased awareness and sensitivity towards the environmental repercussions of cosmetic formulations. Emerging trends encompass formulations that are not only purer but also showcase innovative technologies, all while witnessing a growing emphasis on promoting skin health. This dynamic shift reflects a consumer-driven demand for cleaner, more eco-conscious beauty solutions that align with contemporary values.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
The future trends in the beauty sector that will influence formulation development primarily include sustainability in a broad sense, encompassing both the formulation itself and packaging. This sustainability extends not only to the product composition but also to the environmental impact of packaging. The growing demand for sustainable formulations may prompt companies to reconsider ingredients, adopting eco-friendly solutions and reducing the overall environmental footprint. However, striking a balance between sustainability and effectiveness could be a challenge, and managing aspects such as customisation, technological innovation, and consumer expectations becomes crucial for success in the industry. Continuous research and development will be essential to adapt to these dynamics and remain competitive.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
Among the anticipated ingredient trends for 2024, there is a growing emphasis on organic and natural ingredients, with a particular focus on traceability and production methods. A more widespread substitution of synthetic ingredients with natural alternatives is expected, with specific attention, such as the preservatives category, which has undergone a significant transformation in recent years. This shift reflects the increasing consumer preference for cleaner and more transparent formulations in the personal care sector. It is noteworthy that these changes must go hand in hand with the effectiveness of the ingredient. In my opinion, the substitution should be judicious and not solely dictated by current trends.

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
The important attributes to be asked of ingredients and formulations would be sensorial or emotional (Mind-fullness, Well-being …etc). As for the formulation, the influence of formulation texture against efficacy has been studied recently. As for the ingredient, the effect of improvement after feeling depression or sickness are popular. These are also considered as Stress Management enhancement, and there are many approaches for it.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
As I mentioned above, these emotional effects have been required gradually from the market, which means sometimes it might have to be very effective in terms of the efficacy or change on our skin or mind. However, cosmetics are difficult to claim that efficacy directly and, also cannot be replaced with medicine. Furthermore, the market is expanding in natural products mainly due the increment of the traceability sustainability or clean beauty etc. Thus, even sometimes synthetic one such as peptides are effective, because these are not natural, so it is difficult to become a new star ingredient newly. Therefore, the market recently tends to target selecting wellknown component replaceable ingredients which can be reliable for the efficacy and concept-making. (Replaceable of Vitamin, Hyronic acid, Melatonin or the other hormone etc) with additional value.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
There are some new interesting ingredients following these trends, such as athletic supporting ingredients during or after the sports, wrinkle improvement after a smile, target of odour or taste receptors, sleep deprivation improvement, target of neurotics approach, replaceable of filler and physical change etc. It is supposed that this trend would be more studied and create a new-normal in the cosmetics field.

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
 In my opinion, the cosmetic market is growing in terms of quality and information for the end consumer who is looking for innovative natural ingredients that are sustainable from an environmental impact point of view and have relevant clinical studies on efficacy. With this in mind, our Plant Exosome products meet all these characteristics that the market demands.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
In the coming years, we see several key trends in the cosmetic industry that will influence formulation development:
• Natural and Sustainable Ingredients: The preference for natural ingredients will intensify, with a corresponding focus on sustainability.
• Scientific Innovation: The industry is constantly seeking scientific innovations.
• Product Personalisation: The trend towards personalisation will require highly adaptable formulations.
• Health and Wellness: The focus on health may lead to formulations offering benefits beyond aesthetics.
• Digitalisation: The integration of digital technologies requires a clear translation of the benefits of exosomes into engaging digital experiences.
• Addressing these trends requires a strategic approach that combines scientific research, transparent communication, and adaptability to the evolving needs of consumers.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
Absolutely, considering the escalating skin concerns stemming from climate change, sun exposure, and disruptions in intestinal microbiota linked to skin health, we foresee several ingredient trends shaping the personal care industry in 2024:
• Holistic Wellness Ingredients
• Adaptogens and Stress-Relief Ingredients
• Microbiome-Friendly Formulations
• Advanced Antioxidants for Environmental Protection
• Nutraceutical Ingredients for Skin Health
• Sustainable and Ethical Sourcing

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
It may sound paradoxical, but it is a fact that as technology advances, more people are interested in nature. Natural ingredients, organic food, and cosmetics are becoming increasingly popular. In this trend, bee products, especially bee venom, stand out. It works really well in cosmetics and has a bright future ahead. As pioneers in the production of bee venom powder, we are witnessing a transformative shift in the beauty and personal care industry. The increasing recognition of bee venom as a powerhouse ingredient is reshaping formulations, offering a natural and effective alternative in skincare.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
In the coming years, the trend towards natural ingredients will play a pivotal role in formulation development. In the next few years, beauty trends influencing formulation development will likely include the rising demand for natural and sustainable ingredients. However, with this positive shift, there are inherent risks and difficulties across the industry. These challenges may involve supply chain disruptions, increased competition for rare or exotic ingredients, and potential regulatory changes impacting formulation processes. Navigating these uncertainties will require proactive measures, such as establishing resilient supply chains, adapting to evolving regulations, and ensuring product consistency amidst changing market dynamic.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
Looking ahead to 2024, the personal care industry will continue to witness the prominence of bee products, mostly bee venom, as one of the natural key ingredients trends. Consumers increasingly seek natural, multifunctional solutions, and bee venom aligns perfectly with these expectations. 

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
The end consumer is more and more attentive to the ingredients contained in a product that they use on a daily basis, if we add to this that information is accessible to everyone (even if often monopolised by the media) the formulator must pay more and more attention to the needs of the market and to the correct use of raw materials.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
In the near future, more and more attention will certainly be paid to the sustainability of raw materials and packaging. On the one hand, the entire supply line of an ingredient will have to be taken into account and, on the other hand, the customers’ needs also in terms of price and packaging. Particular attention should be paid to the texture, that I believe is the business card of a formulation.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
Certainly all natural, sustainable and certified raw materials (I am referring for example to the regulated COSMOS, RSPO, PALM FREE).

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
From our experience and stance in the industry, we are seeing the following shifts when it comes to ingredients and formulations: Consumers are increasingly seeking products with “clean”, natural, and naturally derived ingredients. This trend involves avoiding certain chemicals, such as parabens, sulfates, and synthetic fragrances, and is in favour of more natural and plant-based alternatives. We are also noticing a growing emphasis on sustainable and ecofriendly beauty products. This includes environmentally friendly packaging, waste reduction, and sourcing ingredients responsibly. Lastly, seeking greater transparency from beauty and personal care brands regarding ingredient sourcing, production processes, and overall product information. Brands that prioritise transparency are gaining trust among consumers

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
Some of the risks and difficulties we consider in the above trends: Sourcing sustainable ingredients at such a high demand can be challenging. Formulators need to balance efficiency, sustainability, and cost. There is limited scientific evidence for the effectiveness of some ingredients in promoting mental wellness and communication of these benefits without making therapeutic claims can be challenging. On our part, Scents from Nature has established partnerships with various universities such as the master’s program of Chemistry of Natural Bioactives at Lusófona, where our products are studied, tested, and reported on.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
We expect that the trends mentioned in our first response the first question will continue and become more pronounced in 2024, even in markets where “clean”, natural, and naturally derived ingredients awareness was not so profound. At Scents from Nature we are focused on these trends and are continuously working to meet the needs of the beauty and personal care industry.

1. What is changing about the beauty and personal care industry in reference to ingredients and formulations?
The beauty and personal care industry is witnessing a significant shift towards internal beauty, reshaping the landscape to embrace the trend of ‘beauty from within’ alongside external beauty. This evolution highlights the growing acknowledgement of how internal health significantly influences external appearance. As consumers become increasingly aware of this interconnectedness, there’s a rising demand for products that not only enhance external aesthetics but also promote overall well-being from the inside.

2. What beauty trends will influence formulation development in the next few years? What risks and difficulties could arise with them?
 Microbiome-friendly products: As understanding of the skin microbiome’s crucial role in skin health deepens, there is a growing focus on products with ingredients that are designed to support these microbial communities. NeuroGlow: The intersection of neuroscience and cosmetics, known as nutricosmetics, focuses on products with ingredients that can influence the skin’s neuroreceptors and promote mental well-being. Nutricosmetics and ingestible beauty and internal beauty: As we move into 2024, the beauty and personal care industry is increasingly embracing the trends of nutricosmetics, ingestible beauty, and internal beauty, converging towards a holistic approach that blurs the lines between health, wellness, and aesthetics. Clear and Transparent Beauty: The demand for transparency in ingredient sourcing and formulation is growing, but the lack of standardised definitions for ‘clean’ beauty could lead to varied interpretations. Waterless and Concentrated Formulations: Addressing environmental concerns, there’s an inclination towards reducing water usage in products. The challenge here is to maintain product efficacy while satisfying consumer expectations. AI-Driven Personalisation: The utilisation of AI in personalising skincare routines presents privacy concerns and the challenge of managing personal data securely. Plant-Based and Vegan Ingredients: Reflecting the rise in veganism, an increase in plant-derived ingredients is expected, aligning with sustainability and ethical sourcing. Blue Light and Anti-Pollution Ingredients: With increased digital screen exposure and environmental pollution, ingredients that offer protection against blue light and pollutants are becoming more important.

3. Are there any ingredient trends you expect to see within the personal care industry in 2024?
For 2024, the industry is likely to see a continued emphasis on these trends, with a special focus on ingredients that promote beauty from within alongside external beauty. This includes advancements in microbiome-friendly formulations, nutricosmetics, and AI-driven personalisation.