Advancing the boundaries of formulations

The quest for natural, effective ingredients however, has over the years led the cosmetic industry to some path-breaking and transformational technologies involving phospholipids.

One of these breakthroughs came in the late 80s in the field of nanotechnology with the discovery of liposomes and their skin penetration-enhancing properties. Following extensive research, over the years the attributes of phospholipids as cosmetic and biocompatible actives were also established. Their use in nano cosmetic formulations for skin restoration is a subject of constant ongoing research.

Natural, biodegradable, and non-toxic characteristics are desirable in cosmetic formulations. Phospholi-pids are natural components of the human skin. Being a part of the cell membrane means they are non-toxic and have very high tolerability¹.

The human skin is protected by a fragile hydrolipid film that functions as a protective barrier from the external environment. Phospholipids are a part of this hydrolipid film. A compromised hydrolipid film and the loss of epidermal lipids lead to dermal dehydration, loss of integrity, and skin damage. If these lipids can be restored, it can go a long way in maintaining healthy skin.

Emulsifying properties

Phospholipids in their functional form have special characteristics and properties. They have a unique structure with a polar head and one or two fatty acid tails. These impart special characteristics to the skin to help maintain the hydration levels and in natural cell repair. The amphiphilic nature of phospholipids, that is, the ability to interact simultaneously with aqueous and fatty phases helps to lower the surface tension and stabilise the two phases. This makes them excellent emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, solubilisers, and stabilisers, perfectly tolerated and safe for skin and hair.

Phospholipids can be used to formulate stable emulsions for both water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions suitable for skincare and haircare formulations ranging from creams, serums, and lotions, to conditioners, shampoos, and cleansing products. The use of these emulsifiers also importantly characterises the texture and skin feeling, giving a rich and creamy touch, rapid absorption, and a silky sensation on the skin.

Technical yet adaptable

Phospholipids are usually considered technical ingred-ients, and complex to use. However, with an accurate 
evaluation of the formulation to be developed and choosing the most suitable product or combination for the application target, it is possible to use them easily and appreciate their properties, both as emulsifiers, stabilisers, and carriers². They also have an excellent sensory impact on the texture of the formulations. Furthermore, they also 
act as real functional active ingredients, both for the skin and for the hair, with effectiveness documented by a rich bibliography³.

Advancements in nanotechnology have opened a wide array of applications in the cosmeceutical industry. Research undertaken over the past three decades has led to the development of advanced lipid-based nano-sized delivery systems such as liposomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, solid lipid nanoparticles, transferosomes, niosomes, and ethosomes¹. These are known to enhance the skin permeation of various active molecules.

Nanotechnology-based formulations

Highly purified phospholipids are used in nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals, offering several advantages in hair and skincare. Some of these include:

• Developing self-assembly carrier systems
  Liposomes which are composed of one or more phospholipid bilayers can encapsulate hydrophilic or lipophilic drugs making these vesicles useful drug delivery systems. These carrier systems can convey and protect the active ingredients in the formula and improve the bioavailability of the actives themselves. Due to the affinity of the lipids that compose them, they can blend with the skin barrier, optimising skin penetration and the effectiveness of the active ingredients themselves.
• Aiding skin repair
  The fatty acid content of phospholipids is remarkably like that of the lipids of the skin barrier. For this reason, they are also called ‘second skin’ and are functional active ingredients. They can strengthen and repair the lipid matrix of the skin, supporting and restoring its barrier functions and regulating trans-epidermal hydration levels. This property of phospholipids makes them particularly suitable for use in moisturising, restructuring, and anti-ageing formulations, but above all for the treatment of 
skin alterations and pathologies such as dryness, acne, psoriasis, and eczema.
• Lipolysis
  In the medical and medical-aesthetic fields, mesotherapy is a procedure that is based on the injection of lipolytic agents into the intermediate layer (meso) of the skin, to emulsify localised fat and eliminate it. It is a technique used to fight cellulite and adipose fats accumulations and to reshape the body.
• Stimulate hair growth and provide hair care
  Phospholipids stimulate the growth of hair epithelial cells and the regeneration of the hair follicle, promoting the anagen phase of the hair, or the growth phase. They also can bind to hair proteins, with keratin, restructuring them and exerting a conditioning and anti-frizz action, or by conveying specific active ingredients for hair care and beauty to the hair.Another novel ingredient, purified egg oil, a panacea for hair beauty and health, offers anti-fall and anti-dandruff action, as well as the ability to counteract greying of hair. Purified egg yolk proteins offer an excellent additive alternative in hair care preparations to strengthen and shine hair.