Petrochemicals present a complex dilemma for the beauty industry. Dr Isabel Alvarez- Martos, CEO of Cellugy, talks about ways to replace the ingredients and what role sustainability plays.
COSSMA: Alternatives to petrochemicals in makeup tools must be taken into consideration while preserving application performance and user experience. Why are petrochemicals “bad”? And why are they still used?
Dr Isabel Alvarez-Martos: Petrochemicals present a complex dilemma for the beauty industry. On one hand, they are instrumental in delivering the high-performance products consumers crave, providing desirable qualities like smooth textures, long-lasting wear, and effective application. Ingredients such as acrylic acid copolymers, polyethylene glycol, polyurethane, and silicone oils are ubiquitous in formulations, from luxurious foundations to enduring lipsticks. This reliance on petrochemicals is deeply engrained in the industry’s current formulation practices.
However, the environmental and potential health implications are undeniable. Derived from fossil fuels, they contribute to climate change and plastic pollution. Microplastics, in particular, pose a significant threat to aquatic life and, ultimately, to the human food chain. These substances not only persist in the environment but can also bind with harmful chemicals like phthalates and BPA, amplifying their negative impact.
The beauty industry faces a formidable challenge in transitioning away from petrochemicals. Finding sustainable alternatives that match the performance of synthetic ingredients is complex and costly. Additionally, reformulating beloved products without compromising consumer satisfaction requires substantial investment in research and development. Nevertheless, the growing consumer demand for clean and ethical beauty products is driving innovation and creating opportunities for brands to lead the industry in sustainable practices.
What alternatives are there already?
What are the advantages, what are the disadvantages?
The beauty industry is increasingly exploring bio-based alternatives to petrochemicals in response to growing consumer demand for sustainable products. Ingredients like xanthan gum and cellulose derivatives are prominent examples, offering renewable, biodegradable options with potential skincare benefits. These bio-alternatives align with the industry’s sustainability goals and resonate with environmentally conscious consumers.
However, the transition to fully bio-based formulations is not without challenges. While natural alternatives hold promise due to their renewable and biodegradable nature, they often exhibit limitations in terms of performance compared to their synthetic counterparts. Issues such as the “peel-off” effect, stickiness, reduced efficacy, or compatibility limitations with formula ingredients can hinder product acceptability. Thus, combining various bio-based alternatives and potentially complementing them with carefully selected synthetic ingredients, may be necessary to achieve the desired balance between sustainability and product performance.
Cellugy dropped a high-quality, sustainable solution. What makes it more attractive than any other alternative?
Cellugy’s solution stands out in the beauty industry by offering a unique combination of high performance and sustainability. Unlike other bio-based alternatives, our technology delivers exceptional results and sensoriality without sacrificing environmental responsibility.
Our breakthrough lies in overcoming the historical limitations of biofabricated cellulose. By developing a readily redispersable powder form of this versatile ingredient, we have made it accessible and practical for formulators. This innovation, combined with our commitment to no-chemistry and sustainability, sets us apart.
EcoFLEXY, our flagship product, is a prime example of our approach. It directly addresses the industry’s need for high-performing, sustainable alternatives to synthetic thickeners and stabilisers like carbomers. But we don’t stop there. Our fermentation platform is a catalyst for innovation, enabling us to develop a wide range of bio-based ingredients tailored to specific skincare and haircare needs.
What truly distinguishes Cellugy is our holistic approach. We are not merely replacing existing ingredients but redefining the possibilities of beauty formulations. By harnessing the power of biology, we create ingredients that not only meet but exceed industry standards while minimising environmental impact. This commitment to both performance and sustainability is what makes our solution truly compelling.
Which products already use it and where can it be used in the future?
It is a versatile rheology modifier with broad applications across the personal care industry. Its exceptional thickening and stabilising properties make it an ideal ingredient for a wide range of products, including skincare, haircare, suncare, and rinse-off formulations. This bio-based solution excels in creating stable and high-quality products, even under challenging conditions.
Its unique crystalline structure and strong 3D network enable it to effectively stabilise various components, such as waxes, clays, pigments, and active ingredients. Its shear-thinning properties further enhance its versatility, allowing for easy application and a pleasant user experience. Thanks to its low stringiness index, formulations containing our thickener offer a fresh, glide-on feel without the greasy residue often associated with traditional thickeners.
How important is sustainability when designing a new solution? What are the difficulties here?
Sustainability is paramount in developing new solutions. We believe that creating products that are both effective and environmentally friendly is not only essential for the planet but also for driving innovation and consumer satisfaction. By focusing on bio-based ingredients and sustainable production processes, we aim to empower brands to offer products that align with the growing demand for conscious consumption.
While sustainability is a core value, it also presents significant challenges. Balancing the desire for eco-friendly solutions with product performance and consumer expectations is a delicate task. Additionally, sourcing sustainable raw materials, optimising production processes, and ensuring the long-term viability of ingredients require ongoing research and development. However, we view these challenges as opportunities to innovate and create truly groundbreaking solutions that benefit both people and the planet.
What other solutions could arise in the future? Are there certain trends that can already be named?
We see the next trend being around consumers preferring “healthy” to “perfect” looking skin, embracing imperfections and ageism as long as it comes from a healthy place.
Our new developments include a cellulose-based SPF booster to enhance sun protection, a film-former and active delivery system, and an enhancer and stabiliser for colour cosmetics. We believe these developments will cater to the next huge trends set to emerge in the near future.
Dr Isabel Alvarez-Martos
CEO and Co-Founder, Cellugy Søborg, Denmark,
www.cellugy.com