Roziani Zulkifli, Event Director of in-cosmetics Global, talks about AI driven formulations and how events can adapt to the new challenges from the changing industry.
COSSMA: How has the cosmetics industry evolved in recent years, and what key trends are driving this transformation?
Roziani Zulkifli: The industry has evolved in nearly all areas – one being technological advancements, which are reshaping the beauty landscape in numerous ways. Key developments such as artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR) are enhancing and optimizing formulation processes. For example, AI can help refine a formulation’s specific functions, such as absorption rate, viscosity, or format, as well as foaming and makeup-removing properties.AI-driven formulation can also support the development of cruelty-free products and help optimize ingredient selection, ultimately improving product efficacy. The integration of AI at the intersection of beauty and wellness is another growing area, as consumers seek hyper-personalized solutions tailored to their unique skin and health needs. AI-powered technology enables brands to provide tailored recommendations based on real-time skin analysis, lifestyle habits, and environmental factors. It’s definitely an exciting time as futuristic ideas begin to turn into reality!Over on the AR side, virtual try-on tools are continuing to transform how consumers discover and experience beauty products. One example is La Roche-Posay’s MyRoutine AI, which leverages a skin strength database with 50,000 graded photos to deliver an advanced skin analysis in under a minute. This trend extends to makeup and colour cosmetics, where customers can virtually experiment with different looks, products, hairstyles, nail colors, and even skincare applications.Another significant trend lies in skincare, which remains a key focus but with a slightly different approach. Consumers are becoming increasingly knowledgeable and clued in, shifting away from complex, extensive beauty routines in favour of a more minimalist, targeted, and effective approach that is often backed by data and science. As a result, we can expect to see more multifunctional skincare products that combine multiple benefits into a single formulation, with a strong preference for science-backed brands.
Which new ingredients or technologies are in the spotlight at this year’s in-cosmetics Global?
The Innovation Zone is the place to discover the latest ingredients and technologies – it’s where launches happen, featuring any new ingredients and innovations introduced within the past six months. As the epicentre of the event, suppliers from all over the world submit their latest innovations, with over 210 functional and active ingredients featuring this year. Another key area to look out for this year will be the increased emphasis on testing, which continues to be a crucial part of personal care and ingredient development. Over 50 companies, including WENEOS, ALS, Anti Oxidant Power (AOP), and Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, will be featured in the Testing & Regulation Zone, showcasing advancements that help ensure product safety, efficacy, and compliance. As testing becomes increasingly important, don’t miss the new Testing & Regulation Forum, held in partnership with Skinobs on day three of the show (10 April).
What technological advancements–such as biotechnology or AI-driven formulations–do you see as game-changers for the future of cosmetics?
It’s clear that developments such as biotechnology and AI-driven formulations are revolutionizing the sector by delivering more personalized and effective products. Biotechnology is enabling the development of innovative ingredients that are both sustainable and highly effective. Lab-grown ingredients are becoming more prevalent, offering powerful skincare benefits without relying on traditional resource-intensive farming methods. This includes microbiome science, where products are formulated to support the skin’s natural ecosystem, promoting healthier and more balanced skin.Meanwhile, AI is enhancing personalization by analysing consumer data, such as skin type and environmental factors, to create tailored skincare solutions. Tools like virtual skincare consultations and product recommendations are helping consumers make more informed choices. Beyond AI and biotech, we are also seeing innovations in smart skincare devices, such as LED light masks and skin monitoring tools, as well as formulation advancements like waterless cosmetics and microencapsulation. These developments are shaping the next generation of beauty, offering both sustainability benefits and enhanced product performance.
How are shifting consumer preferences, particularly around clean beauty,
personalization, and transparency, influencing product development?
Shifting consumer preferences, particularly around clean beauty, are influencing product development as brands continue to respond to the demand for more sustainable products. This has prompted companies to invest in clean beauty formulations, often emphasizing organic, cruelty-free, and eco-friendly practices. However, it can be tricky; with still no universal definition of ‘clean’ or ‘natural’ across the industry, it is open to interpretation, meaning brands can address it in different ways. Some focus on natural ingredients, others on non-toxic formulations, and some prioritize sustainability and ethical sourcing. This lack of standardization can create confusion, making transparency even more crucial. However, brands are taking the right steps forward – clearly communicating ingredient sourcing, manufacturing processes, and the environmental impact of their products, are all ways of working to align efforts to help build trust and provide consumers with clearer, more informed choices.Personalization is another key trend driving product development. Consumers are increasingly expecting beauty products tailored to their specific needs, whether it’s skin type, conditions, or even genetic factors. In response, brands are leveraging AI and data analytics to create customized skincare routines or makeup shades that offer more precise solutions. This move towards personalized beauty is also supported by the rise of at-home customisation tools, such as personalized skincare kits and foundations. The combination of clean beauty with personalized formulations allows consumers to feel more empowered in their choices, fostering brand loyalty and creating a more individualized beauty experience.
What regional differences do you
observe in trends for specific cosmetic
and personal care products?
Regional differences in cosmetic and personal care trends are influenced by cultural preferences, environmental factors and local market demands. In North America and Europe for example, there is a strong emphasis on sustainability, clean beauty and transparency. Consumers in these regions are increasingly concerned with ingredient safety, eco-friendly packaging and ethical sourcing. Trends like vegan, cruelty-free, and green beauty products are prominent, and brands are responding with formulations that focus on natural ingredients and minimal environmental impact. In Europe, there is also a growing interest in dermatologically tested, clinically proven skincare solutions that cater to a wide range of skin types, particularly sensitive skin.In contrast, the Asia-Pacific region, particularly in countries like South Korea and Japan, leads the way in innovation for skincare and beauty products. K-beauty has been known to set trends globally with its innovative approaches to formulations and formulas, unique ingredients and an emphasis on skin barrier health.Meanwhile, in the Middle East and Africa, there is a growing demand for luxury and high-performance products, with a focus on anti-ageing and moisturisation. The region’s diverse climate influences the popularity of products designed to address sun protection and hydration, especially given the extreme temperatures in many areas. It’s perhaps unsurprising that, particularly in the hotter regions, face washes and lightweight, hydrating products for sun protection are popular, whereas in colder regions, there is a greater emphasis on rich moisturizers, occlusives such as Cicaplast, and slugging to combat dryness. These regional trends reflect how different cultural preferences, environmental factors, and consumer concerns shape the global beauty market.
How are new regulations and legal
requirements shaping developments in
the cosmetics industry?
New regulations and legal requirements are significantly shaping the cosmetics industry, by driving brands to place a greater focus on consumer safety, sustainability and ethical practices. Stricter guidelines on ingredient safety compel companies to disclose ingredients transparently and ensure products are free from harmful substances. Equally, environmental regulations are pushing brands to adopt eco-friendly packaging and reduce waste, while laws banning animal testing are prompting the industry to innovate with alternative methods. These legal frameworks are driving innovation, pushing brands to develop safer, more sustainable, and ethically sourced products that meet both consumer expectations and regulatory standards. On the afternoon of day three (Thursday 10 April), the Testing and Regulation Forum will feature sessions from GCRS Global, Cosmeservice, REACH24H, and CTPA, covering the evolving global landscape of cosmetics regulation, compliance, product safety, and more.
Which trends and innovations from other industries could significantly impact the cosmetics sector in the coming years?
While the cosmetics sector is relatively advanced when it comes to innovation, there are, of course, trends from other industries that are poised to impact the sector in the coming years. For example, advancements in sustainability and circular economy practices, from sectors such as fashion and food, could push cosmetics brands towards more eco-friendly packaging, waste reduction and recycling initiatives. Second, the health and wellness movement, which comes hand-in-hand with fitness and nutrition, has the potential to shape the cosmetics industry with a stronger focus on holistic skincare and wellness-driven products. Nutraceuticals, a term combining “nutrient” and “pharmaceutical,” are emerging as a key area to watch for the future. Consumers increasingly link wellness and health with personal care practices, embracing the idea that “eating your way to healthy skin” or prioritizing mindfulness and overall well-being can lead to better skin and hair. While this concept isn’t entirely new, it is evolving and expanding within the beauty industry, making it a very exciting space to explore as it continues to take shape. Of course, as touched on earlier, AI and AR are not only transforming the consumer experience but also revolutionizing product development, as well as testing, and formulation processes. Biotechnology too, widely used in pharmaceuticals and agriculture, could lead to the development of more bio-engineered ingredients in cosmetics, offering powerful, sustainable solutions. In my opinion, these cross-industry innovations will not only refine product offerings but also enhance the way formulations are created, tested, and validated, ultimately elevating the overall consumer experience in the beauty world.
What role do events like in-cosmetics Global play in knowledge transfer and
fostering innovation in the industry?
Events like in-cosmetics Global play a crucial role in knowledge transfer by providing a platform where professionals from the personal care and cosmetics industry can share the latest research, trends and advancements. These events bring together experts, suppliers, formulators and brands to exchange valuable insights, making it easier to stay up to date on evolving regulations, sustainability practices, the latest innovations and new technologies. At this year’s exhibition, we have a raft of exciting features to unite the whole cosmetics community and facilitate knowledge transfer and networking. These include multiple product areas and conference theatres, including the Marketing Trends Theatre, Sustainability Zone, Innovation Zone, Fragrance Zone, Sensory Bar, Make-Up Bar, Technical Seminars, Formulation Lab®, and the new Testing and Regulation Forum. Each area will spotlight evolving industry priorities, driving the sector forward to formulate products that delight customers and align with their values, drawing upon the best in cosmetic science excellence, pioneering technologies and sustainability efforts.
How has in-cosmetics Global evolved in recent years to better meet the needs of the industry?
At in-cosmetics, we pride ourselves on really listening to the industry, particularly the feedback we receive from visitors and exhibitors after each event. We ensure that we keep the ability to pivot and adapt elements of the event to meet the needs of the cosmetics and personal care industry, and ultimately, the consumer. One of the key developments in recent years has been placing a strong emphasis on our three pillars; science, innovation, and sustainability.First, we have focused on creating a show that is as scientific and cosmetic scientist-led as possible. Bringing in leading experts as speakers and hosting highly technical and innovation-driven sessions, we have worked to cement in-cosmetics Global as the key show for cosmetic science in personal care product development. This is really at the heart of what we do, ensuring that R&D professionals, formulators, and industry experts can access the latest advancements in formulation, testing, and ingredient innovation. At the same time, with eco-conscious beauty at an all-time high, sustainability is important to our exhibitors, so it is important to us. This includes a focus on ingredients, sustainable sourcing, and green chemistry. The Sustainability Zone, sponsored by AAK, has become a vital hub for learning, networking, and discovering innovative solutions that drive sustainability across the industry. Encompassing the Forum, Theatre Display, and Pavilion, it provides insights, connections, and solutions to help companies make greener decisions and advance their sustainability efforts. Whether through ingredient innovation, ethical sourcing, or transparent supply chains, we are committed to supporting the industry in making meaningful progress toward a more sustainable future.
In your view, what defines a successful trade show, and what developments
can we expect for in-cosmetics Global in the coming years?
To us, a successful trade show is defined by its ability to create meaningful connections, facilitate knowledge exchange, and drive business growth. Key factors include a well-curated lineup of exhibitors, relevant and engaging content such as seminars and workshops from leading scientists, regulators, formulators, marketing experts, and company founders, and strong networking opportunities. Ensuring that the event meets the needs and interests of attendees is crucial in providing valuable insights and actionable takeaways.For in-cosmetics Global in particular, success also lies in being the key platform for product launches and staying in the know on current and emerging trends. We do this by fostering collaboration with the industry, continuously gathering feedback, and leveraging our extensive network to extend opportunities to others – ensuring that in-cosmetics Global remains the premier platform for the cosmetics and personal care industry.
Roziani Zulkifli
Event Director,
in-cosmetics Global, www.in-cosmetics.com