The less is more approach in skin care

photo: MOKKUP/Shutterstock.com
photo: MOKKUP/Shutterstock.com

The pressure of achieving the perfect skin has caused a reaction among end users. They are eschewing perfection in favor of health and wellbeing. The skinmalism trend started with the discovery of the harmful effects of certain ingredients. It is since being propelled by a yearning for comfort, with skin care transforming into precious moments of self-care. Now, it is up to formulators and packagers to produce solutions that simplify the skin care routine, with products that are efficient, multi-sensory, convenient and quick.

Skin care has undergone a radical shift. Consumers are moving away from complex, multi-step rituals, to favor time-saving efficiency. Skin care minimalism – also known as ‘skinmalism’ – focuses on simplifying skin care by using fewer products to achieve effective results. Healthy skin is the priority. Heavy makeup is out. Instead, many people are now opting for a more streamlined routine to produce a natural look. 
While beauty trends are often cyclical, a unique set of circumstances has led to the rise of skinmalism. There are the usual aesthetic drivers, like the no-makeup makeup 
and ‘clean girl’ looks. These aim to enhance natural features against a backdrop of healthy-looking skin. No more hiding wrinkles or freckles! In some part, these natural looks are a backlash against social media’s obsession with perfection. Even young people have resorted to botox and cosmetic surgery. It has become too much to become perfect and influencers are making a U-turn, urging followers to accept their features and highlight the best parts of themselv

Redefining beauty

The natural aesthetic trends reflect a reevaluation of the concept of beauty. For many, the emphasis has moved towards wellbeing. This is not a case of the young forging a new path; it is a trend among all generations – older generations perhaps even more so, as seen in the ‘anti-anti-ageing’ movement. These changing priorities became most apparent during the pandemic. Lockdowns and restricted movement made people crave for human contact and a deeper connection with nature. Feeling good became more important than looking good.
The real shift started before Covid, however, with the discovery of the harmful effects of certain ingredients. Some substances were found to cause endocrinal issues. Others triggered allergies and so on. A growing eco-consciousness led consumers to investigate effects on the environment, for example, SPF ingredients harming coral reefs and marine life. With a digital-era facility to research information, a new class of ‘skintellectuals’ arose. These intrepid consumers visited trade shows, consulted experts and conducted research into the effects of cosmetics ingredients. Sharing their findings online got them a following and some have launched their own skin care ranges, grounded in their new-found knowledge. 
Post-Covid, the world is dealing with a heavy mental load. Consumers are trying to cope with record levels of fatigue, with an urgent need for comfort, enjoyment and emotional connection. One outcome of these combined circumstances is a tendency towards simplicity, including in skin care routines. More ingredients is seen as more harmful; less has become more. The demand for relief-providing products is set to rise, emphasising multi-sensory experiences and enhancing daily interactions.

The skinmalist routine

With skinmalism, skin care routines are not only easy, but also quick, convenient and portable. Consumers focus on the main issue they want to target, be it red spots, puffiness or dark circles under the eyes. There are less steps, less products and less ingredients overall – everything takes second place to that personal goal.
As skin care is expected to be easier for the user, the burden shifts to formulations and packaging, which now have to take over the ‘heavy lifting’ – without causing harm to the environment, of course. For skin care products, this means a whole new level of multi-functionality and performance, and an unprecedented scrutiny of their ingredients. 
To start with, PFAS ingredients are out. Perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances have often been added to cosmetics to make them long-lasting or water-resistant, or to improve their texture. However, these so-called ‘forever chemicals’ have become known for their persistence and their negative impact on health. Brands like Walmart in the US are removing them from their formulations. In some regions, legislation is being passed to ban them in personal care products. New Zealand is completely banning PFAS ingredients in cosmetics from the end of next year.
Formulations are generally evolving to make skin care quicker and more convenient. Thinner formulas help with fast absorption, while high-performing solutions for specific issues help consumers achieve that personal goal. Two-, three- or even seven-in-one products mean they do not even need to choose – one product does everything from moisturising and toning, to firming and lifti

A new breed of packaging

Skinmalism demands efficiency-driven packaging that does it all. It needs to be nomad, dispense the correct amount of formula, help with application on the skin and assist with formula penetration and ingredients efficacy. A whole new breed of functional packaging is emerging. Integrated systems – like built-in applicators and dual-chamber structures for ingredient mixing – are minimizing the need for multiple products and tools. Time-saving innovations focus on quick access and ease of use, such as one-handed operation, dispensers with precise dosing and travel-friendly formats. 
Just as formulators face concerns regarding ingredients, so packagers have to pay more attention to raw materials and coatings. Skinmalism is a consequence of ‘too much’, that became dangerous for the body and mind. The ‘less is more’ approach therefore also applies to packaging, leading to monomaterial designs that can be recycled whole or that harmlessly degrade, like those made of wood.
In addition to efficiency, packaging must deliver an experience. Multi-sensory solutions engage touch, taste, sight, sound and smell, to give comfort and pleasure. Soft-touch materials, cold-touch roll-ons, applicators with massaging effects – all have the ability to transform the skin care routine into a feel-good moment, while helping products deliver on their claims. In this way, packaging becomes a tool for sensory recharge, helping to lighten the mental lo

Embracing differences

Skinmalism is happening, but let’s not forget there are other profiles of end users – some who like playful experimentation, others who prefer bold looks. Cosmetics are part of the routine of everyday life, just like we brush our teeth, switch on our mobile or pick up our bag before we go out. The skinmalism approach can be combined with other trends to broaden our perspective.
Skinmalism is not new. Those who only use the basics have always been around, but their mindset has become a lot more attractive in recent times. The quest for the perfect look – that flawless skin, with big lashes and lips – created a lot of issues and now we are seeing the fallout. The skinmalism trend is a positive development. It shows that we are starting to accept our differences. Not being perfect is the perfection and that is what makes us unique.

Paula Cardoso
Head of Product Innovation, Quadpack, 
Barcelona, Spain, www.quadpack.com

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