A science close-up: COSSMA

photo: Syda Productions/Shutterstock.com

The 30th IFSCC Congress takes place from 18–21 September 2018 in Munich’s Infinity Hotel in Germany. A panel of world-renowned experts will present 85 papers in 8 sessions and discuss the latest findings in their fields of cosmetic science.

In addition, nearly 500 posters will be displayed. A panel of experts selected this varied programme of live presentations and posters from a record number of submissions.

In addition, four pre-congress workshops are being offered featuring the following topics for in-depth education: optical non-invasive in-vivo measurements, skin models, preservation and development and application of caffeine-containing formulations for hair growth and beauty. Apart from this, the exhibition hall features 35 selected companies. And, the day after the Congress has finished, the famous Oktoberfest begins.

The new device measures TEWL on small or difficult to reach areas. photo: Courage & Khazaka

Fascinating keynote topics

Prof Leonhard Zastrow from the Charité will explain whether skin care products are capable of compensating for any systemic undersupply and on the conditions that free radicals require to become effective in the process of skin ageing and carcinogenesis.

□Prof Lorenzo Alibardi from the University of Bologna will present study results that indicate the progressive loss of immunoreactivity to most proteins from the keratogenous to the consolidation zone of the developing hair, where cornification is completed.

Prof Dr Dr h.c. Reinhard Neubert from the Martin Luther University of Halle/Wittenberg will provide some examples of natural surfactants.

Prof Dr. Jean Krutmann from IUF will show that different environmental factors can influence each other in ways that are relevant to skin health, and further, that interactions between environmental factors and genes are critically involved in the ageing of human skin.

Dr Frédéric Leroy from L’Oréal will show why globalisation will not lead to a standardisation of cosmetics, but rather to cosmetic products that will become more and more “local” in response to local needs.

Delivery of actives into skin is limited to low molecular weight drugs due to the barrier properties of the stratum corneum. Prof Samir Mitragotri from Harvard University will provide an overview of delivery systems for skin penetration. Amy Wyatt from Chanel will explain the current challenges that call for new fundamentals of luxury. And Dr Hal MacFie from Hal MacFie Sensory Training will present recent developments in sensory methods.

Exhibitor news

Courage & Khazaka will present Tewameter TM Nano, the latest member of the Tewameter range. With its ultra-small measuring chamber of only 2 mm in diameter, this device allows the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in g/h/m² on small or difficult to reach areas. The new device is ideal for measuring on nails, lips, scalp with parted hair, small animals, etc. Special rubber rings make the probe sit tightly even on slightly curved surfaces such as nails. The Tewitro TW 24 is the only device to measure the water evaporation from cultured tissue in microwell plates in up to 24 wells simultaneously, with the open chamber measurement of the Tewameter. This tool is indispensable for safety, sensitivity and efficacy measurements that avoid using animals or volunteers.

Greentech, one of the event’s gold sponsors, will present new research results on the well-established active ingredient Biotilys, which ensures the skin’s microbiota balance and diversity. This active substance, obtained from Lactobacillus pentosus, stimulates the skin’s host defense peptides while maintaining skin microbiotic balance and improving moisturization. Biovitis, a branch of Greentech, focuses on this type of research.

Silab will show Neurofense, an overall natural neuro-soothing active ingredient derived from the roots of red sage, a Chinese medicinal plant that is resistant to the cold. The ingredient is designed to relieve Caucasian and Asian sensitive skin that reacts excessively to external stimuli such as climate, environmental and chemical pollution. Thanks to its transversal action, the active ingredient targets three biological components of skin sensitivity: it neutralises neuronal hyper-reactivity by inhibiting TRPV1, the key receptor for sensitive skin; it restores the quality of the cutaneous barrier and it reduces skin inflammation. With its multi-ethnic efficacy, the ingredient improves the tolerance threshold for sensitive skin exposed to the cold or pollution.

www.courage-khazaka.de, www.greentech.fr, www.greentechgmbh.de, www.silab.fr