Wanted – microbiome- friendly products

Facts about the skin microbiome 

With his informative presentation The skin microbiome present and future*, Prof Dr Markus Egert from the Faculty of Medical & Life Sciences of Villingen-Schwenningen, provided some insight on what to consider when developing a prod-uct targeting the microbiome of human skin.

Only 1% of all microbes have been cultured

The human microbiome is estimated to be comprised of up to 15,000 different species While some play a crucial role in diseases others are pivotal for human health and well-being.

So far about 1% of all microbes have been cultured while 99% still await to be cultured or are even unculturable. Interestingly enough, women have a higher diversity of microbiota on their hands than men with about 15% more species. 

Consequences of an imbalance in the skin microbiome

In the case of acne, Propioni bacteria is rampant. In the case of atopic dermatitis, the production of hBD (humane β-Defensin) is impaired and Staphylococcus aureus is rampant. Psoriasis stems from a disturbed skin microbiota composition. Dandruff originates from Malassezia spp, whereas body odour and tooth decay from Corynebacterium jeikeium Streptococcus spp respectively. Rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, sensitive skin, impure skin and other skin conditions that might stem from an imbalance in the skin microbiota. 

But is the topic all that new?

It is true that the number of studies performed on the skin microbiome has drastically increased in the past few years. However, Dr Karl Lintner from Kal’Idées clearly said in his presentation Skin microbiota and skin barrier function: Essential factors in reducing skin sensitivity* that linking skin and microbes is not that new at all. 

He is convinced that the buzz on the topic is due to the fact that chemical innovation for new ingredients is hampered by Chinese IECIC (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China) and that the beauty industry is therefore seeking new marketing stories and has thus started recycling old concepts and ingredients with claims such as “harmony” and “homeostasis”. 

Challenges involved in cosmetic skin microbiome studies

Due to the complex system of hundreds of species and strains much microbiological as well as statistical expertise is required to come to a consistent conclusion. The physiological interactions of the microorganisms of the skin are still far from being understood. It is still rather unknown what microorganisms constitute a beneficial or adverse effect. 

Due to the risk of contaminations and misinterpretations, special protocols are needed. As numerous extrinsic and intrinsic factors have an influence on the skin microbiome, the natural variability is high so that it is difficult to recognise significant effects. With a low concentration of mildly working cosmetic actives it is also difficult to see significant effects.