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photo: popcorner/Shutterstock.com
photo: popcorner/Shutterstock.com

Cosmetics manufacturers have to meet 
a whole catalogue of sustainability criteria to meet consumers’ expectations. 
A recharcheable pencil could be a new ­interpretation of sustainability.  Christian ­Eisen of Faber-Castell Cosmetics assesses the chances and problems of such a product.

photos: pics five/Shutterstock.com; Faber Castell
photos: pics five/Shutterstock.com; Faber Castell

Do you have sustainable pencils in your portfolio?” seems to be a key question by most brands. But what does sustainability really mean? Is it limited to the product itself or do we have to consider the supply chain as well? Should we focus on ingredients for textures and packaging or are the 3Rs (recycle, reuse, reduce) the ultimate answer to a sustainable product portfolio? And what is it that will subsequently lead the consumers to make their buying decision for a sustainable product? 

Suppliers need to dig deeper and come up with an answer to all of those questions.

The texture, aka the formula, is the key feature of every cosmetics pencil. Cosmetics manufacturers are keen to ensure that it meets all criteria of sustainability – clean, no microplastics, no blacklist ingredients, vegan…you name it. In the packaging area, a lot of research has gone into alternative plastics and of course there’s the wood pencil, the most sustainable packaging of all.

But next to the mere product features there’s also the supply chain to consider and of course the 3Rs. Finding the most sustainable solution in the area of 3R. Key requirements would be consumer acceptance, providing a true USP and making a product that would offer convenience, style and sustainability all in one. To the best of knowledge and research, there appears to be no product out in the market, especially in the pencil segment, that would meet all of these criteria. But why had nobody seemed to have come up with a solution to this dilemma? 

1. Myth #1: Products are
less-than-stellar

It is not a matter of accusing anyone of developing poor products, but rather of asking what qualifies as a good rechargeable product. Ultimately, the decisive criterion is how much packaging material is used for one end-of-life application of the product. In order to achieve a good result, the rechargeable unit itself must consist of considerably less material than the original product. The overall product (base plus refill unit) should also not consist of significantly more material, and the customer must have a good reason to use the product multiple times. This is especially challenging with pencils, as the fill weight of the product is usually quite small compared to the packaging. We learned a long time ago that miniature versions don’t necessarily save money, nor do they save much material. So creative variations of new product designs and packaging solutions are needed that put more material into the base unit (e.g., the mechanics of an automatic pen) and less into the refill. On this basis, a reduced price is the key incentive for consumers to choose recharge units rather than simply buying a new product. What’s more, solutions are needed for connecting the base and recharge units so that they can only be used together.

2. Myth #2: Convenience beats ­sustainability 

Nobody questions the value and necessity for sustainable solutions but is sustainability a sufficient USP to sell recharge solutions – especially when the actual impact of existing solutions is not very transparent to the consumer. What efforts are consumers willing to make – especially when the initial purchase decision requires medium to long term planning. The key to successful rechargeable products therefore has to be additional value and benefits besides sustainability. Finding solutions that are fun or convenient for consumers. Creating replenishing models for standard products such as black eyeliners or brow pencils. Offering colour range sets that support the initial purchase of the basic product. Considering collectibles that make a basic product more interesting and valuable to consumers. Selling trends or looks along with the product – one base for plenty of different styles. Charging should be easy and fun, rather than becoming a necessity. How about additional accessories to support usage – like travel packs or small kits for daily essentials? At its best, the ideal rechargeable product provides the basis to offer the above solutions. This requires close collaboration between supplier and brand to find the right product for the right marketing strategy.

photos: pics five/Shutterstock.com; Faber Castell
photos: pics five/Shutterstock.com; Faber Castell

3. Myth #3: Lack of Business Models and Retail Concepts

Considering the above, the need for new concepts to sell new products is obvious. Even if there are new ideas or new USPs to support the actual sale, the question remains of how to get the products to consumers. The industry must address new challenges, from labeling and packaging of recharge units to the issue of display on retail shelves and the space required to do so. Replacing an existing product with a rechargeable one increases risk and raises many new issues for brands that have not been considered before. Offering additional SKUs naturally creates similar questions and adds complexity to the portfolio. 

Outlook

So after all, is recharge a dead end – at least for cosmetic pencils? 

There’s just no easy (and quick) solution. But great risks often go hand-in-hand with great opportunities. It therefore takes someone willing to think outside the box to make this happen. Considering the three myths above and using them as a framework might be a good start. There is no ultimate solution yet, but it might be worth trying.

photo: Christian Eisen
photo: Christian Eisen

Christian Eisen 

VP Sales & Innovation, A.W. Faber-Castell Cosmetics GmbH, Germany, 
www.farber-castell-cosmetics.com 

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