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photo: MITstudio/Shutterstock.com
photo: MITstudio/Shutterstock.com

Let’s embark on a journey through time that takes us back 10 years in time, and let’s take a look at how trends in personal care preservation have changed. In the three-year period between 2009 and 2011, parabens, especially methyl- and propylparaben, were among the most used molecules to prevent microbial spoilage in cosmetics1

As a matter of fact, in the last century, parabens became the most used and trusted preservatives in the personal care industry. 

A study of 1995 stated that 99% of leave-on cosmetics and 77% of rinse-offs were found to contain parabens2. Since then, what has happened since then? 

If we take a look at the worldwide use of methyl- and propylparaben in the last decade, it is instantly striking that there has been a considerable decline in the use of these two preservatives, see table 1. In addition to this, in the same period, in the personal care market it has become more and more common to use the claim “paraben free”. The use of this claim in the past decade has increased significantly, especially in the US, as table 21 shows. 

table 1: Worldwide use of methyl- and ­propylparabens from 2009 to 2017
table 1: Worldwide use of methyl- and ­propylparabens from 2009 to 2017

Something went wrong, but what exactly?

In the early 2000s, an important debate emerged on the possible correlation between the development of breast cancer and the use of underarm cosmetics containing parabens; there were scientific publications supporting this theory and others disproving this type of correlation. As this related directly to the safety of cosmetic ingredients, the European Commission asked for the opinion of the independent technical committee dedicated to products and consumer safety. Safety evaluations started being released by the SCCP – Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, which later became the SCCS – Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. Seven studies were released in less than 7 years. In all of these, the safety of parabens was evaluated with the help of a number of experiments (carcinogenesis; reproduction, acute chronic and sub chronic toxicity; absorption, metabolism and excretion; mutagenicity; skin cells stimulation). General conclusions confirmed the safety of methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben as indicated in Annex V of the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. 

For other parabens, those characterised by a longer lateral carbon chain, the human risk could not be evaluated and due to this, in accordance with the worst-case approach, their use in cosmetic products has been banned. The EC implemented the conclusions released by the SCCS by updating Annex V Reg. 1223/2009. 

To answer the question “Are parabens safe or evil/toxic cosmetic ingredients?” we can today confirm the safety of methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl parabens, if used in accordance with the indications of Annex V of Reg. 1223/2009*.

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