From waste to value

Large quantities of fruit and vegetable waste are obtained through the food and beverage industry. Citrus fruits, which include oranges, grapefruits, lemons, limes, and tangerines, are the largest quantity of harvested fruit in the world. Over 115 million tons of citrus fruit are produced annually, and over 30 million tons are industrially processed into juice. What remains is nearly 50% of the fruit in the form of citrus peel. Other types of fruit also generate large amounts of waste. The annual production of bananas is 107.1 million tons and that of apples is 75.5 million tons, with 25 – 40% disposed of as waste after industrial processing¹.

The production of edible olive oil is about 3.26 million tons. This generates a large quantity of by-products². Annually, 4.5 million tons of olive leaves are produced by the cultivation of olives for mainly edible oil. Until recently, these were burned directly in the fields or fed to livestock.

To reduce the waste load and meet the increasing public demand for bio-based and natural cosmetic products, there is a growing interest to utilise agricultural waste as cosmetic raw materials and to practice so-called upcycling³.

In upcycling, the final product has a higher value than the starting material. The source of the upcycled products is waste, which relates to an image of bad quality and diminished value. It is important to emphasise the benefits of the upcycled products and to create a positive image. A different wording is required. One could refer to products out of waste as products out of unused resources or as untapped talents. Furthermore, words like by-products or co-products work because they are not stigmatised. 

Ingredients from agricultural residuals

Olive leaves, squalane and pits

Researchers are working on a project that aims at the complete upcycling of olive leaves. A smart value chain will be created based on the cascade utilisation of olive leaf biomass. Different extraction and isolation techniques will be applied to achieve the zero-waste approach⁴. One important ingredient is hydroxytyrosol, which stimulates the formation of melanin in the skin. Melanin protects the skin against harmful environmental influences and premature ageing⁵. Olive leaf extract (INCI: Olea Europaea Leaf Extract) is used in skin care creams⁶.

Squalane (INCI: Squalane (Olive)) is a low viscosity oil contained in the unsaponifiable fraction of the oil of certain plants, especially olive oil. This high-quality emollient can moisturise7 and stimulate the self-regeneration of the skin8. It is made from by-products of edible olive oil production. 

Finely milled leftover olive pits (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder) form a purifying, oil-absorbing powder that can serve as a base for skin care, hair care, make-up applications, scrubs, and skin cleansers. From 1.500 olive pits, 1kg of the fine powder or scrub can be obtained⁹.

Artichoke stem extract

The world production of artichokes is about 1.7 million tons. Artichokes are characterised by a high content of bioactive compounds such as phenols, inulin, fibres, and minerals. About 60 – 85% of artichoke biomass is not suitable for consumption. The aqueous extract (INCI: Artichoke Stem Extract) obtained from artichoke stems contains chlorogenic acid, which inhibits the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). This extract, which is further investigated, could act as a potential antiglycative to promote elasticity and firmness in skin¹⁰.

Lycopene from Tomatoes

Around 180 million tons of tomatoes are produced annually, of which 3 – 7% are inedible and can be used as cosmetic raw material. The peel, the pulps, and the seeds, also called “tomato pomace” contain the ingredient lycopene (INCI: Lycopene), which is responsible for the red colour. It is a powerful antioxidant and radical scavenger^11,12, which can be used in facial creams and serums. It is said to refine the complexion and to protect the skin against UV-A and UV-B rays. Thus, pigment spots and wrinkles are prevented¹³.

Chicories and cucumber 

Chicory seed vegetable oil (INCI: Cichorium Intybus Seed Oil) can be used in skin care for anti-ageing products. An aqueous cucumber extract (INCI: Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract and Propanediol) can be used as a moisturising agent. It is extracted from agricultural co-products and cucumbers which are not  the right size for sale¹⁴.

Orange and lemon peels and seeds

Citrus peels (INCI: Citrus (Lemon) Peel) are a rich source of antioxidants as well as vitamins C and E, which can be used in body lotions and body sprays, but also in soaps. Orange peels can be used for skin whitening creams for the treatment of dark skin spots. Citrus seed oil (INCI: Citrus Seed Oil) has antimicrobial, antifungal, antiparasitic and antioxidant properties and can therefore be used in soaps¹⁵. The widely used fragrance component limonene (INCI: Limonene) is the major component of citrus fruit peel oil and a by-product of the juice industry.

Pectin from lemon peel fibres is combined with sclerotium gum resulting in a biodegradable thickener and stabiliser for skin care products. (INCI: Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Powder and Sclerotium Gum)¹⁶.

Banana residuals

Each year, an estimated 20% of the world’s banana production is discarded due to damage and defects. Thus, 24 million tons of bananas are directly thrown away. A company in Martinique produces certified organic beauty products with active banana ingredients. They are extracted from banana peels and pulp (INCI: Musa Paradisia (Banana) Fruit Extract). Yellow, green, and pink banana fruit extracts are used in the products. The extracts have firming, healing, anti-ageing and brightening effects. The banana ingredients can be used in face creams and masks as well as in hair and body care products^17,18.

Scalp: fragrance raw materials

After the supercritical CO2 extraction of the spicy olfactory compounds  of Madagascan pink berries, biflavonoids are extracted from the residuals. The extract (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Schinus Terebinthifolia Seed Extract) is said to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in dosages from 0.1 – 1.0%. It inhibits the itching cascade involving TRPV⁴ to help scalp recover a healthy look in only seven days¹⁹. The product is especially suitable for people wearing helmets or hijab to reduce redness, scales and flakes on the scalp caused by the physical irritation.

From crops to care products

Crops provide a source for various sustainable and upcycled products. 

Rice

Misshapen white rice is milled to crystalline powder (INCI: Oryza Sativa Germ Powder), which is excellent to use in scrubs for face or body, depen-ding on the particle size. The larger particles are used for body scrubs, whereas the smaller ones are ideal for facial skincare like polish²⁰.

The fermentation of rice produces sake lees, while molasse is a by-product of the purification of Sanuki Wasanbou sugar. Both products together (INCI: Molasses (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Lees Extract) improve skin moisture level and skintexture density²¹. 

Corn and wheat

Succinic acid (INCI: Succinic Acid), can be obtained from corn starch. It is an efficient substitute for salicylic acid in facial care products and thus well suited for anti-acne formulations. A by-product from wheat starch extraction (INCI: Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Seed Extract) is a complex composition of Glycosylceramides and Digalactosyl Diglyceride²². It ensures an effective barrier function between skin cells.

Actives from beverage waste

Coffee

The by-products of the coffee industry, pulp, husks but also unripe coffee beans can be processed into cosmetic products¹¹. Around 103M tons of coffee are produced worldwide every year²³. The coffee grounds themselves also contain  valuable ingredients and can serve as a raw material. For example, Germany generates around 20 million tons of waste from coffee grounds every year²⁴. Coffee is used as mild scrub for body care. Caffeine has a skin-refining effect and strengthens the top layer of skin increasing the moisturising capacity and leading to a better complexion. As caffeine has a blood circulation-enhancing effect on the scalp, it is used in shampoos which are supposed to stimulate hair growth^11,25.

Blueberries and Raspberries

Blueberries are a source of proretinol and anthocyanins. Therefore, the by-products of blueberries canbe used against blue light and as antioxidant and free radical scavengers. (INCI: Vaccinium Myrtillus (Blueberry) Seed Oil) is made from upcycled blueberry seeds. Compared to standard blueberry seed oil the level of carotenoids of this product is significantly higher.

Raspberry seed oil (INCI: Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil) contains vitamin E and fatty acids. Therefore, it can be used as antioxidant in skin care formulations^26,27,28. Leftovers of the seed oil processing are milled and used as exfoliants.

Exfoliating fruit powders in two grades suitable either for face scrubs or body scrubs are made from raspberry and blueberry juicing waste. The small grade is also a good texture enhancer for soaps or other solid  formulations. Use levels of Rubus Idaeus Seed Powder (INCI: Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Powder) and Vaccinium Myrtillus Seedcake Powder (INCI: Vaccinium Myrtillus (Blueberry) Seedcake Powder)²⁹ are 1 – 15%.

Apple leftovers 

In processing apples to beverages, biomass containing apple pulp, skin and seeds remains as waste. Apple pulp (INCI: Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber) contains natural alpha hydroxy acids. It has a peeling effect, regenerates the skin, and helps cell formation. Cold-pressed apple seed oil (INCI: Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil) has an anti-ageing effect and contains antioxidants. The skin of the apple seeds (INCI: Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil (and) Coco-Caprylate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is used in dry and powdered form, has an anti-ageing effect, and strengthens the skin³⁰.

Actives from alcoholic beverages

Waste from gin, beer and wine production is used for the manufacture of cosmetic ingredients. Proteins contained in barley are converted into peptides, polypeptides, and amino acids by enzymes. (INCI: Hordeum Vulgare Extract (and) Propanediol) is manufactured from these proteins, which can reduce the redness of skin. (INCI: Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate (and) Glycerin contains a combination of glycerin and grain fermentation products for long-lasting hydration of the skin.

Grapeseed is a by-product of wine production. The antioxidative and antibacterial effect of grapeseed oil (INCI: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil) is beneficial for sensitive skin and keeps it in a good condition^31,32,33.

References:

¹ I. S. Choi, Y. G. Lee, S. K. Khanal, B. J. Park, H.-J. Bae, Applied Energy 2015, 140, 65-74.

² a) Olivennebenprodukte: Herausforderung Anwendung in der Kosmetikindustrie - ScienceDirect b) https://www.internationaloliveoil.org/worlds-olive-oil-production-has-tripled/

³C. Y. Cheok, N. Mohd Adzahan, R. Abdul Rahman, N. H. Zainal Abedin, N. Hussain, R. Sulaiman, G. H. Chong, Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr 2018, 58, 335-361.

⁴ Olive leaf multi-product cascade based biorefinery: From an under-used biomass in the primary sector to tailormade solutions for high added value international market application, Oleaf4Value Project, Fact Sheet, H2020, Cordis, European commission, www.europa.eu

⁵ Olivenblatt-Extrakt: So stärkt der natürliche Booster unser Immunsystem und schenkt strahlende Haut, Vogue Germany

⁶ Olivenblattextrakt-Pflege, Sinoplasan

⁷ Sophim, (olive squalane emollient), Upcycling Olive Squalan für Clean Beauty – Premium Beauty News

⁸ Squalan: Vorteile für die Haut und die Verwendung in der Kosmetik – Sophim

⁹  Olive Chrush active (<50μm), Olive Crush Micro (100 - 300μm) of Full circle; Fruit Stone Powders For Cosmetics, www.upcycledbeauty.com

¹⁰  Bekämpfung der AGEs-Formation: Upcycling-Artischocke hemmt die Glykation, erhöht die Hautfestigkeit | Kosmetik & Toilettenartikel, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com 

¹¹ New Trends in Cosmetics: By-Products of Plant Origin and Their Potential Use as Cosmetic Active Ingredients, Ani Barbulova, Gabriella Colucci and Fabio Apone

¹² https://www.landwirtschaft.de/landwirtschaftli-che-produkte/wie-werden-unsere-lebensmittel-erzeugt/, SpecPure LCP from Spec-Chem Industry

¹³ https://www.cosmacon.de/lycopin/ 

¹⁴ https://www.biolie.fr/en 

¹⁵ https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2022/03/16/Citrus-fruit-waste-upcycledfor-cosmetics-active-skin-care-holds-potential-findsreview Biolie Isocumis, 

¹⁶ FiberDesign Sensation of Cargill Beauty, https://www.univarsolutions.com/product-categories/chelants/rheology-modifiers/fiberdesign-sensation 

¹⁷ https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2022/04/27/upcycled-banana-beauty-brand-kadalys-expanding-into-supply-research-to-tackle-climate-crisis 

¹⁸https://www.allure.com/story/food-waste-beauty-products-upcycling 

¹⁹ WastarPink Berry of IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/our-showroom/wastar 

²⁰ Full Circle Upcycled Beauty; “White Rice Crush TM – 4 Grades of Exfoliants & 1 active powder for personal care”; Februar 2021; https://www.upcycledbeauty.com/white-rice-crush 

²¹ Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Ltd: Wamino BonBon, Ann-Katrin Wienecke of Safic Alcan innovative solutions: „Zero-Waste Upcycling – our solution for sustainable cosmetic products”, October 2021

²² DeWolf Chemical’s product BBR SA 130 (supplier: Roquette) C+eRamide (supplier: Lessonia), DeWolf Chemical an Azelis Company, “Corn & Wheat Upcycling”, 2020, https://dewolfchem.com/corn-wheat-upcycling  

²³ https://de.statista.com/statistik/daten/studie/12508/umfrage/weltweite-produktionsmenge-von-kaffee-seit-2003/ 

²⁴https://www.ndr.de/ratgeber/Kaffeesatz-zu-schade-zum-Wegwerfen,kaffeesatz102.html

²⁵Lipoid Kosmetik AG: Caffeine Herbasome, https://www.cosmacon.de/glossary/koffein/ 

²⁵ Full Circle, Blueberry Necta, Raspberry Necta, Blueberry Necta, Upcycled Active Oil for Blue Light, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, www.upcycledbeauty.com 

²⁶ https://www.botanicalformulations.com/blog/anthocyanins-in-skincare-products 

²⁷Raspberry Necta, Upcycled Raspberry Oil With Natural Vitamin E, www.upcycledbeauty.com 

²⁸ Raspberry Crush, Blueberry Crush of Full Circle, www.upcycledbeauty.com/crush 

²⁹https://sabo.com/sabomel-upcycling-2 (5th June 2022), Sabo, Sabomel-A MB Sabomel-ASP, Cosmacon, https://www.cosmacon.de/apfelextrakt/ (13th June), Full Circle: Barley Toniq, Gin Toniq

³⁰ https://shop.upcycledbeauty.com/products/barley-toniq (5th June 2022)

³¹ https://shop.upcycledbeauty.com/products/gin-toniq%C2%AE (5th June 2022)

³² https://winefolly.com/lifestyle/5-upcycled-products-from-wine-waste/ (13th June 2022)

³³https://incibeauty.com/de/ingredients/10506-vitis-vinifera-seed-oil  (13th June 2022)