Adjusting epigenetics naturally

More and more natural ingredients are capable 
of having an impact on gene expressions. The better we know our biochemical pathways, the easier it becomes to leverage 
natural ingredients to produce positive epigenetic effects.

By itself, Roquette’s plant-based PolyHydroxyAcid has biostatic properties through its lowering of the pH. Moreover the 5 hydroxyl groups (-OH) on the gluconic acid molecule attract water and act to reduce water availability (Aw) for microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. It also boosts the effectiveness of antimicrobial or antifungal organic acid salts (such as sodium benzoate, sodium sorbate, sodium acetate, sodium propionate), whose activity depends on the salt dissociation. In more alkaline conditions, Glucono Lactone forms sodium gluconate. By complexing/extracting Ca2+ ions from the cell’s surface, it weakens the wall membranes of bacterial cells. The weakened cell wall is then more sensitive to the action of preservatives. 

By improving the effectiveness of preservatives and biocides, Beauté by Roquette GA 290* allows  the reduction of the amount of preservative needed in cosmetics6. Furthermore, Glucono Lactone can be leveraged in anti-aging concepts, especially against photo-ageing^{7, 8}. 

Good skin function is essential for a young appearance of the skin. Hair growth is another important factor for appearing young. We have learned that scalp and hair growth follow a genetical programme. However, there are ways to alter the predestination imposed by our genes. What is important to understand is that the expression of our genes is a key to beautiful, thick and long hair. 

Understanding the hair growth cycle is essential for leveraging epigenetic effects and for overcoming our genetically programmed destiny⁹.

Corsolic acid, which can be found in loquat leaf extract, can upregulate several gene expressions that signalize the transition to the anagen phase, e.g. FGF-7, VEGF and BMP-2. At the same time, corsolic acid downregulates the expression of FGF-5, a gene which signalises the transition to the catagen phase and hair loss. 

As a consequence, Maruzen’s loquat leaf extract has been tested successfully in a panel test with the goal of enhancing hair growth, which translates to the growth of thicker hair fibres. After 6 weeks of applying a tonic with loquat leaf extract, the hair diameter tended to increase compared to placebo. This is expected to be induced by the action of the active ingredient on the proliferation of dermal papilla cells (DPC).

Ingredient cocktails triggering hair growth

Other ingredient cocktails have been introduced to trigger hair growth. All are based on understanding the hair growth cycle and the modulation of gene expressions. An interesting example is Majestic Mane from BCR10. It contains Indian echinacea, which influences the Wnt/β-Catenin signalling pathway, and purple tea, which contains polyphenol GHG and provides free radical scavenging abilities, as well as Fo-Ti, a Chinese herb, which is traditionally used to keep hair lustrous and black, and Gotu Kalan, a remedy to enhance blood circulation. 

In-vitro studies prove that this combination modulates gene expression. The AHR gene is significantly downregulated at the 0.2% level. The gene is responsible for pro-inflammatory signals triggered by environmental pollutants. Decreasing this response protects the scalp from deleterious inflammatory effects of extrinsic stressors. 

Reduces the impact of inflammation of the scalp

Another example is Volugro, also from BCR, which contains magnolia bark, skullcap, hunan qi and Chinese foxglove¹¹. 

A gene expression analysis reveals that the active ingredient can downregulate MMPs, which reduces the impact of inflammation on the scalp. 

It can also downregulate AhR, which produces pro-inflammatory signals and therefore protects the skin from environmental pollutants, but also upregulates LAMA1, which is an indicator for essential proteins in the basement membrane. It supports basic cellular functions and also upregulates TGF-β and VEGF genes, which are important cellular growth factors.

Hair growth has limits, as inactive hair roots can rarely be reactivated. Yet, with these modulations of gene expression, we can preserve what we have. However, there is still a lot to discover. 

Leveraging natural ingredients

Of course, the list of ingredients with an impact on gene expressions is far longer than the examples described here. But the selection presented shows that natural ingredients can be leveraged effectively once we better understand how our bio-chemical pathways work. 

Positive epigenetical effects from natural ingredients 

Our examples show that natural ingredients and certain key ingredients play a role in the expression of mRNA and thus clearly indicate that they produce positive epigenetical effects.

It is true that the simple use of cosmetics by itself can help to make people happy. However, the interesting thing is, that some cosmetic ingredients can even have a direct effect on certain gene expressions, which in turn help cell functions to work as if we were young. Even better: These ingredients come to us from nature.

*available with a Cosmos certificate