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photo: Cosmogen
photo: Cosmogen

Applicators | Packaging design and the ideal dosage form play a very important role for care products in the sensitive eye area. Special applicators not only create a wow effect during application but can also increase the degree of sustainability of the entire product. Maud Lelièvre presents the latest developments.

Through premiumisation, most brands have integrated eye care into their range of cosmetic or dermocosmetic products. This market, which has become mature, is characterised by a need for differentiation. Efficiency, eco-responsibility, sensory experience, well-being, and ease of use are the criteria that guide the design of these targeted treatments for well-informed consumers.

With the intensification of the use of videos linked to that of social networks, their success is also conditioned by their story telling: gestures and proof by image. So many parameters that require innovation to make the buzz.

New materials

While many ways have already been explored, technological developments, the use of recycled materials, the development of plant-based plastics, or even the integration of materials such as stone or ceramic are multiplying development prospects. They are naturally part of an eco-responsible approach that is measured by software for analysing the life cycle of products, a real decision-making tool for brands.

The three “Rs”

Generally made of a cap, a tube and an applicator, packaging is now often designed to facilitate refillability, sorting and recycling at the end of its life – or even for reuse. 

The used applicator can add more value to the pack. At the same time, if one considers the increasing demand for sustainable products, it therefore seems logical to allow its reuse.

New application experience

The quality and efficiency of the application remain a prerequisite. The applicators must be designed to allow simple gestures and direct contact with the surface to be treated without using the fingers, as the eye contour is a fragile area. 

Neutral materials such as stainless steel, zamak, or ceramic are well suited for this purpose. Shapes and touches are soft and allow delicate massaging movements particularly suited to anti-wrinkle formulas.

For concealer care, the cold effect of these materials is a popular asset since it provides a feeling of freshness and therefore an immediate perception.

Sensory signature

Manufacturing processes and materials make it possible to offer personalised applicators. The most common way is to use proven packaging that has been most successful to further improve it and give it distinctive characteristics. A collection of applicators based on a concept of different depressions and reliefs offers a wide range of application possibilities for the different formulations, brand-specific offerings, and skin types.

The sensations that result from the application are therefore also unique. This opens prospects for a sensory experience for consumers, or even a sensory signature for brands that can create their own applicators. It would also be possible, for example, to have a formula with three or four interchangeable applicators to vary the sensory effects.

Instant customisation

This still recent technology of 3D printing is gradually gaining ground. This is a novelty in the world of cosmetics, but in many ways, it can create great potential and an interesting edge for brands. It makes it possible to quickly develop a new applicator since it avoids the step of creating a mould. It is already tested on proven tubes for eye contour serums. Due to its soft stem and cool-effect metal tip designed to scoop formula sparingly, then apply it on the targeted area.

photo: author
photo: author

Maud Lelièvre,
Director Marketing and Communication,
Cosmogen, Paris, France,
www.cosmogen.fr 

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