Nice packaging!

COSSMA: What are the trends in cosmetics packaging? What will the beautician not be able to avoid in 2020?

Arne Fehlhaber: A clear trend is the holistic approach of product and packaging and a change from Cradle to Grave to Cradle to Cradle. Cradle to Cradle means a continuous and consistent recycling management of product and packaging. This is based on thinking in terms of complete cycles from the very beginning and thus avoiding the creation of waste in the conventional sense. Terms like “ecological”, “environmentally friendly” or “sustainable” are becoming obsolete. Precious resources are no longer wasted unnecessarily because the packaging is not disposed of but recycled. Product and packaging should be developed together, and their disposal should also be taken into account directly, with the aim that all materials used can be reused after use or at least composted without harmful residues. There are already new product categories that are produced in a more environmentally conscious way, such as shampoo bars. These are not only produced with less water, but also contain no water or other liquid components and therefore do not require plastic packaging. The avoidance of microplastics will continue to be a concern and new sustainable materials will be required. Here, too, a rethink in product development will help ensure that product and packaging are optimally matched.

What other trends are there in the cosmetics industry that will have an impact on packaging?

The cosmetics market is currently showing two trends. On the one hand, natural cosmetics, which are experiencing a real boom. Here the product, ingredients and packaging should be as natural as possible. The other is high-performance products, which are more scientific and technical and promise high effectiveness In this context, they must be clearly distinguished visually. Natural cosmetics currently tend to be presented in earthy natural tones, whereas high-performance products are usually found in highly refined, sometimes almost medically effective packaging. Both trends are understandable. With the first signs of skin ageing, the effectiveness of the products becomes more important and highperformance products move more into focus. The development of product concepts that combine nature and science is therefore exciting. Individualized cosmetics will also continue to be a topic.

Will there be something completely new on the market in 2020?

Yes. The first refill concepts for care and cosmetic products will also be found on the market. From refillable deodorant sticks to refillers for jars. The principle goes like this: When the product is used up, the environphotos mentally friendly refill pack is simply purchased and replaced in the original container. Here, of course, the refill packaging should not be manufactured as elaborately as the actual packaging. Even portioned products in very small quantities are still in demand - with the balancing act between utility and sustainability.

But that also means that something will change in brand communication?

Honesty and transparency are required. Customers want to know what is in their product, where it comes from and how it is packed. And also, what the general attitude of the company is. It is very important that what is communicated also fits the brand core - a high-performing, technical brand that suddenly appears on the shelf in the “organic look” would not be credible and would easily be stamped “greenwashing”. I should also think in the other direction. How much colour and print finishing in the form of films and varnishes would suit my natural cosmetics brand and product? But one thing is certain and visible; sustainable products can be fun! That’s easy if the topic of sustainability is already anchored in the brand core.Small start-ups show how it’s done, they dare to do it and present their products, some of them with unusual designs, confidently on the shelf. Due to their specialisation, they are usually more credible in their niche than the big, well-known brands.

How do you decide which trend to jump on?

The answer to this should be provided by the brand. What does the brand core itself offer and to what extent can it be stretched? Competence and credibility are the most important factors here as well. Instead of taking every trend with you,

it’s much more a matter of recognizing the spirit of the times.