Form and function

COSSMA: To what extent will the coronavirus crisis affect the development of cosmetic packaging?

Andreas Schabert: A lot of packaging has long ceased to be produced in Germany, for example pumps for dispenser bottles. And this is now becoming abundantly clear. Supply chains are interrupted, production is stopped or at least delayed, some products are no longer available at all and the tip of the iceberg has probably not yet been reached as the warehouses were still full.

What has become of the “Made in Germany” seal of quality? Can we strengthen this again now? In the food sector, we are already demanding it, we want regionality and products from the neighbourhood. A general rethinking is currently being initiated to produce more regionally again in order to be more independent and flexible. Products and packaging do not have to be transported around the globe, which incidentally also serves the sustainability aspect.

What are the greatest challenges and what must be taken into account during production and use?

The greatest challenge with cosmetic products has always been to use the right material to prevent undesirable effects on the product and to ensure handling and functionality through suitable packaging systems. Emulsions and surfactants, for example, place different demands on the material.

In addition, the development of products and packaging will increasingly focus on avoiding contamination, including avoiding preservatives. Dispenser systems are ideal for this and are certainly becoming more topical again.

When it comes to materials, sustainability will have to play a bigger role. The aim is to create acceptance for the added value of packaging in terms of sustainability. The only question for the brand manufacturer will be how I communicate the topic to my consumers in order to increase the relevance.

What could be a vision for the future in terms of cosmetic packaging?

As early as the development phase of new products and recipes, the subject of packaging in terms of possible materials and functionality must be assessed at an earlier stage.

Which barrier properties of packaging can, if necessary, be positively minimised by using alternative recipes? How high does the water content in the recipe have to be? Could solid products be an alternative, as is already the case with soap and shampoo, for example? In the context of sustainability discussions, the term “Design to Recycle” comes up again and again - a good approach to make better use of the possibilities of sensible recycling methods.

The topic of circular economy such as refill systems will also offer new possibilities. A liquid soap with a pump for one-time use should no longer be available in this way in the future. Simple and well-functioning refill concepts, with better handling than today’s solutions, also open up new market opportunities.