For less environmental impact

COSSMA: When did you start thinking about tubes made from only one material and what were the first steps of the research?

Aude Laclaire: Our sustainable journey started more than 15 years ago. Of course, the acceleration is visible since a few years, with the necessity to support the plastic circularity and therefore recyclability. The ongoing European PPW legislation and the growing eco taxes all intend to support the current ‘take make waste’ (linear system) switching to the ‘take make reuse and recycle’ (circular system).

The first step to understand was that we needed to make tubes recyclable with the introduction of ‘Design for Recycling’ guidelines APR and PRE. We quickly realised that mono materiality was mandatory to maximise chances to be compatible with the targeted HDPE rigid stream, and to increase the value of the recycled material. The second step was to design technical solutions according to these D4R guidelines. Since then, CSR is driving the innovation pipeline, and our portfolio is moving towards full HDPE material.

Which part of the tube poses the biggest challenge for monomaterial tubes and why?

Half of the was way is done! The targeted stream for recycling is identified: HDPE rigid coloured. We now need to make sure our tube designs are compatible with, and that they will be orientated into it. The key concern for tubes is the material change for the closure systems that are currently mainly com-posed of PP (bringing the resistance level needed on screw caps). This transition in ongoing, but to speed up the process, several challenges must be addressed: First, being able to process and to convert HDPE material instead of PP material on existing tooling (injection moulds mainly) due to materials’ different properties. And second, this material change also implies differences in terms of product behaviour: for instance, during transportation or in customer’s filling lines (sensitivity to scratches), and/or compatibility with the formula, and finally, aspect.

Hopefully, the market progressively under-stands that sustainability requires compromises there.

What materials did you research and test? What steps are neces-sary here?

According to the guidelines for recycling, the major fraction of material packaging orientates the stream to be followed. For tubes, it means HDPE rigid coloured such as PE (LD/HD/LLD) and rHDPE (PCR mechanical and chemical).

We are also working on every detrimental substance for recy-cling, such like alternatives to carbon black as the pigments do not reflect in the NIR sorting devices and thus obstruct the recycling process.

The recyclability of the finished products is one way to have a lesser impact on the environment. Reducing the amount of raw material used is another. What research steps are needed here to get to a tube made of less material?

Reducing the weight of tubes and their components (sleeves and caps) is at the heart of our innovation strategy. In line with the recommendation of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, we have committed to reducing our consumption of virgin plastic by 20% by 2030 (versus 2019). This will reduce the burden on fossil resources, generate less waste and consequently limit the carbon footprint of our activity. 

We managed to reduce material with the fusion of the head and the cap. This enables -55% weight reduction and -57% carbon reduction versus a standard tube.

What is the best way to test the limits of how much material is at least necessary in order not to endanger the durability or safety of the tube?

The mandate for tube manufacturer is to put packaging on the market that is safe, compliant with customers’ CSR goals while ensuring the protection of their formula. The challenge is to ensure this product safety and durability while reducing the amount of material – sometimes even to the extremes.

All these requirements are taken into consideration in the entire eco-design phase.

First of all, it is the impact on customers’ filling equipment. A reduction in material affects filling and end sealing means changes in process parameters, i.e. machines and/or resources.Secondly, there is the impact resistance and compatibility with the formula to consider. The third important point is the impact on transport. For e-commerce for example Amazon, Ista6 transport tests are now essential.

The first steps towards more environmentally friendly plastic packaging in cosmetics have been taken. What more will be possible here in the next few years?

A big challenge is now the effectiveness and efficient collection and recycling of the packaging. To accelerate the sorting in all regions, we are part of influencing groups and are working with customers and other key players in the industry.