What makes skin age?
COSSMA: What are your major findings in dermatology?
Prof Dr Jean Krutmann, Director, IUF, Professor at Düsseldorf University: When I worked as a clinical dermatologist, I was the first to observe that UVA1 irradiation is beneficial for certain indications such as atopic dermatitis, urticaria pigmentosa, scleroderma and cutaneous T-cell lymphoma.
Today, UVA1 therapy is an integral part of phototherapeutic modalities used worldwide1.
What are your major findings in the field of skin ageing?
One of the major findings is that not only UV causes skin ageing but also infrared radiation is causally involved2. Another research result is that in addition to the epidermis the dermis plays a decisive role in skin ageing caused by UV radiation and that in fact extrinsic skin ageing in particular is driven by senescent fibroblasts and thus by an inside/outside mechanism3. Last, but not least, I discovered that air pollution is causally involved in skin ageing4, 5. We recently proved in vivo and ex vivo that exposure of human skin to traffic-related diesel soot causes skin hyperpigmentation because the soot stimulated melanin synthesis.
Why does the exposure to ultraviolet B and A radiation lead to skin ageing?
Photoageing of human skin by UVB/UVA is mainly driven by macromolecular damage to dermal fibroblasts. Accumulation of such damage causes a senescent phenotype which profoundly alters their secretome (e.g. they secrete more MMP-1 and many other proteins). This causes structural changes at both the tissue (dermis, epidermis and subcutis) and organ level which we clinically perceive as aged skin7. The best protection is the regular use of UV filters in day-care products. It makes sense to complement this with active ingredients, which can reduce the processes mentioned above. There is a large choice of these active ingredients available8.
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