Sustainable consumption (Part 1): COSSMA

Studies show that the idea of sustainability has arrived in the minds of consumers. However, it often is not easy for companies and consumers to implement the standards. Both companies and consumers focus first on waste avoidance and recycling. Blogger Dr Ghita Lanzendörfer-Yu presents the results to you.

Figure 1: In 2019 citizens from all EU member states were asked on their personal consumption habits and on if this would influence the environment. Respondents answered as above. Overall, however, two-thirds of the respondents think that that their personal behavior might have an impact1 ) and only a quarter says it definitely has. 4% of the respondents gave no answer on this question.

Sustainable consumption is the dilemma of the 21st century. It is actually impossible to solve, because consumption is the consumption of resources and sustainability is their protection. So how do we find a balance between the desire to look good and the need for a sustainable lifestyle? In our daily professional field, we face some challenges, but also exciting opportunities. Let’s explore together how we, as experts in the beauty world, can take the path to greater sustainability, because this is a very important aspect for the vast majority of users of beauty and care products.

Sustainable? That’s what we all want!

Various studies have delved into sustainable consumption, providing valuable insights. In 2019, the Eurobarometer (Figure 1) shed light on European perceptions, while Ernst & Young conducted specific studies for Germany in 20222. Additionally the IKW3 conducted a comprehensive survey also in 2022, involving over 1120 participants aged 16-69, specifically focusing on sustainability and cosmetics.

The findings from these studies are illuminating. A staggering 84% of respondents from the IKW survey considered sustainability as important in their choices, with a noteworthy 20% deeming it the most critical factor. Remarkably, the enthusiasm for sustainability was even more pronounced among the younger demographic. This approval signifies a promising trend in the industry, as it demonstrates a consensus on the significance of sustainability. It’s a positive signal for all of us involved in the beauty industry.

However, participants in the IKW study did not feel it was that easy to define sustainability. From various answer options, the majority selected waste avoidance/separation and the use of recyclable materials. This is also where they see the greatest opportunities to make a contribution themselves.

Packaging waste is an obvious problem and has been addressed in cosmetics for many years, already. Most often, plastic bottles are promoted as being either recyclable or made from recycled materials.

The topic of reusable packaging is neither addressed in the IKW study nor in other surveys. Additionally, the concept of “unpackaged” products doesn’t yet seem to play a substantial role in the cosmetics study or the market. Hardly anyone else goes as far as the company Lush, which offer products simply “naked,” meaning they are provided without traditional packaging.4

Figure 2: The logo of the 12th of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals5: In September 2023,  the UN called on the citizens of the world to make their contributions public under “united we act”.

Sustainability beyond packaging

Among the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations, it is number 12, which describes responsible production and consumption. This is represented by the infinity sign, which also stands for the circular economy (Figure 2).

The sustainability goals in cosmetics (and many other industries) are based on these targets and are more than CO2 avoidance or reduction:

Emissions reduction through changes in production, transportation, use of renewable energy, or the like.

Water savings in production and use.

Waste avoidance both in production, transport, sales and the actual cosmetic packaging.

Environmentally compatible formulas, e.g. by avoiding microplastics, silicones, hormonally active fragrances or light protection filters.

Social commitment on site and in the countries where raw materials are grown or processed.

Transparency, e.g. in the Product Documentation File, which already exists for all cosmetic products and can be viewed by consumer protection organisations or state supervisory authorities. Information can also be found in company reports and reliable presentations by the suppliers.

Verification of compliance with the rules, e.g. through independent certificates that are regularly renewed.

These changes towards a sustainable economy are not only of a technical nature, but also require a social rethink. No one really wants to tackle the issue of renunciation, the most unpopular word of sustainability. Rather, people talk about behavioural adjustments.2