Scientific digest: COSSMA

Each session had a keynote, and all of them were very interesting and inspiring. The keynote speakers provided insights into the role of free radicals as well as their mode and areas of action in the skin. We also learnt that you really see the consequences of particulate pollution, such as dust particles on the skin, and that antioxidants can be used to combat their effects.

In addition, different technologies were presented for improving the delivery of actives to their sites of action. As a result of all the sessions, it was predicted that natural cosmetics with sustainable packaging will be feasible in the future. Furthermore, the importance of specific products for different ethnicities with their different demands was vividly stressed.

The latest ingredients trends

Many presentations focused on new investigations in the field of blue light protection, and protection from various environmental stressors. The influence on our skin’s microbiome, i.e. the microorganisms that live on our skin and are partly responsible for our skin health, was another focus. These trends and new insights into the skin and its actual composition in much more detail are the main topics skincare research is focusing on right now. In order to predict the effect of actives, there are more and more new testing methods on designed skin models.

Trends in terms of dermatology

One big trend is to learn about the influence of different proteins and lipids in the skin, the skin’s assembly, interaction and their role in different skin phenomena.

To give an example: Why is the skin of Albinos thicker than normal skin, why does it consist of a larger variety of different ceramides and why does it still have a weaker barrier function? The poster entitled Phenotypic changes in the corneome and ceramidome of photodamaged dry facial stratum corneum from different ethnic groups was presented by working groups around Dr Rainer Voegeli.

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