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photo: Olga Ekaterincheva/Shutterstock.com
photo: Olga Ekaterincheva/Shutterstock.com

Over the last decade hair lightening has become more and more popular among women all over the world. Blond hair colours are among the best-selling shades. Even grey to white hair has become a trend among young consumers, allowing also for fashionable effect shades such as temporary pink, red or blue hair colours and strands. 

Hairdressers and cosmetic hair experts know that strong lightening of hair not only decomposes the melanin pigments but also affects the keratin inside the hair fibre. Lightening of naturally dark hair such as brown or even black hair by up to 9 shade levels requires successive bleaching steps with harsh bleaches containing up to 9 % hydrogen peroxide comprising peroxydisulfates as oxidation boosters, thus leading to significant oxidation of amino acids, especially cystine (and cysteine) to cysteic acid.

With the help of biophysical test methods such as tensile strength evaluations* as well as multiple grooming tests keratin damage can be quantified. 

Based on in-depth knowledge in hair science, cosmetic formulators have recently developed several innovative keratin bonding products which are able to mitigate severe keratin damage during the action of strong bleaching agents and are even able to repair keratin damaged by strong oxidative treatments. Henkel e. g. has patented organic di-acids such as maleic acid or succinic acid to form bridges between adjacent keratin chains by ionic and/or hydrogen bonds, thus cleaved cystine bridges are substituted*.

But there are also other mechanisms possible. Hawker and Pressly postulate that the maleic acid derivative bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate forms bridges between keratin strands by a Michael type addition of the maleic acid with cysteine SH-groups. However, this mechanism does not seem entirely plausible given the highly oxidative environment that transforms free cysteine SH-groups into cysteic acid, which will not act as a nucleophilic agent.

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